Which Rear Axle Should I use?
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Which Rear Axle Should I use?
I have an '88 XJ with a Rusty's 4.5" lift running 31" BFGs. I replaced the rear axle a while ago with a newer XJ axle from the junk yard. My '88 had been running like crap, so I got a deal on a newer '96. I want to take the lift off the '88 and put it on the '96. Was wondering if I should stick with the axle that came with the '96, go with the newer axle I have under my '88, or fix the bearings in my '88's original axle and use it?
I'm a bit confused on identifying these axles, so I thought I'd share some pics:
This is the axle currently under my '96 XJ
This is the newer axle I got and put under my '88 XJ:
And this is the old axle that used to be under my '88 XJ
I'm a bit confused on identifying these axles, so I thought I'd share some pics:
This is the axle currently under my '96 XJ
This is the newer axle I got and put under my '88 XJ:
And this is the old axle that used to be under my '88 XJ
#3
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He's correct about the axle, but I'd open it up and make sure you have the 29 spline or the 27, 29 being stronger but they did that from 96 1/2-2001 so you could have the 29 spline which is arguably as strong as a d44, but if it's a 27 spline it's about the same strength as a d35. D35s aren't garbage depending on your application. If you're not going on rocks and staying with 31s the d35 will be fine. I''m locking my d35 on 31s, i've thoroughly researched this. They are fine if you know it's not that strong and don't go crazy on rock trails.
#5
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Year: 1999
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I wouldn't worry about axles on only 31s! Looks like you've got C8.25s all around. If the bearings and gears are good get some disc brakes and have fun.
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Year: 1988
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Towing package 96 1/2
Thanks SALAD, I think you have a good point. I'm running 31's without lockers, even in the tough stuff I shouldn't have any issues. However while talking to my dad (who doesn't wheel or turn wrenches) suggested I asked others before doing these swaps.
Which UNIDENTIFIEDBOMB, turns out my '96 was manufactured in 12/96 and might have the better axle. Which makes my choice a little harder. The newer axle under my '88 is cleaner and newer. However the one under the 96 either has a limited slip, or is screwed up. When I jacked both wheels up, I tried to turn a wheel, but the one on the other side wouldn't turn the other direction. However once I dropped the drive shaft, it all spun easily. So it probably has a limited slip.
However, I wonder if the axle under the '96 has a pinion seal leak or something:
Wonder how hard that is to fix:
I wonder if I could get more info using the VIN:
This appears to be a non-ABS vehicle:
Although I wonder what that plug is for.
Which UNIDENTIFIEDBOMB, turns out my '96 was manufactured in 12/96 and might have the better axle. Which makes my choice a little harder. The newer axle under my '88 is cleaner and newer. However the one under the 96 either has a limited slip, or is screwed up. When I jacked both wheels up, I tried to turn a wheel, but the one on the other side wouldn't turn the other direction. However once I dropped the drive shaft, it all spun easily. So it probably has a limited slip.
However, I wonder if the axle under the '96 has a pinion seal leak or something:
Wonder how hard that is to fix:
I wonder if I could get more info using the VIN:
This appears to be a non-ABS vehicle:
Although I wonder what that plug is for.
#7
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Year: 1999
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12/96 indeed is most likely a 29-spline. The behaviour you describe is how a limited slip acts, which is sort of surprising that it still works! Nice find!
The pinion seal is kind of a pain on account of the crush sleeve. Check this out: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/8...ement-1242957/
If by "Plug" you're referring to the connector and loom coming out of the proportioning valve that's so the big red brake warning light can come on
The pinion seal is kind of a pain on account of the crush sleeve. Check this out: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/8...ement-1242957/
If by "Plug" you're referring to the connector and loom coming out of the proportioning valve that's so the big red brake warning light can come on
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#8
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Well, I took the diff cover off the axle under the '96, and according to the tags, it's a limited slip. But the diff cover says Dana.
I don't reckon Chrysler 8.25's say Dana on the diff cover? So then it might be a Dana 35 with 29 spline?
Also while I'm at it, is there any EASY way to remove the gasket maker crap. I usually use a razor blade, but it takes bloody ages:
I don't reckon Chrysler 8.25's say Dana on the diff cover? So then it might be a Dana 35 with 29 spline?
Also while I'm at it, is there any EASY way to remove the gasket maker crap. I usually use a razor blade, but it takes bloody ages:
#10
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Well, I took the diff cover off the axle under the '96, and according to the tags, it's a limited slip. But the diff cover says Dana.
I don't reckon Chrysler 8.25's say Dana on the diff cover? So then it might be a Dana 35 with 29 spline?
Also while I'm at it, is there any EASY way to remove the gasket maker crap. I usually use a razor blade, but it takes bloody ages:
I don't reckon Chrysler 8.25's say Dana on the diff cover? So then it might be a Dana 35 with 29 spline?
Also while I'm at it, is there any EASY way to remove the gasket maker crap. I usually use a razor blade, but it takes bloody ages:
If that's the one with a limited slip I'd just run that to be honest.
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Year: 1998
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I've got the Dana 35 rear end with limited slip, and it works pretty well off road, but I don't do much rock crawling. I'm also running 31's on a 3 inch lift. I'd totally suggest using the axle with limited slip.
#12
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Just run the 35 w/ the ls. You're only on 31's, it'll hold up.
You'll end up ditching it eventually anyway when you wana go bigger!
You'll end up ditching it eventually anyway when you wana go bigger!
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