Good afternoon,

As I stated in a different thread I am looking at purchasing a 2001 Cherokee so that I can have a 5 seater. If I can figure out how to get an ZJ or WJ rear seat and add a center headrest and add a 3 point harness to the center seat I plan on going this route. As I also had stated in my thread on the rear seat with 3 head rests, I currently have a TJ with a 4 inch lift. It currently has 33" on it but I was planning on going to 35's since some of the trails I do are pushing my 33's. If I get this Cherokee I plan on getting it on 35's as quickly as possible. Now that I am looking at a Cherokee, I am starting all over in learning what is needed for this on these rigs. From what I can tell this is what would be needed.

SYE for rear end
D44 rear end
Re-gear to either 4.10s or 4.88 (It has the auto trans)-which do y'all advice getting
Frame Stiffener (both the front and the middle)
6.5" lift (This seems crazy high coming from a TJ that only needs a 4" with a 1" body lift to run 35's without rubbing). I like to rock crawl and I like to have as little lift as possible but still have equal up and down travel. This will not be a mall crawler but I don't care about the looks of how "high" it is lifted. I want it as stable as possible. I have seen on the forum that some say even with 6.5" I would still have to do trimming. I am okay with that if it is not too excessive.

If 6.5" lift is necessary, I plan to do a long arm kit. Which brands to you most recommend? I've seen Rusty's (I've heard good things about them), Rubicon Express, Rough Country (not a fan), Tomken Machine (never heard of them), Skyjacker (cheap quality from what I have seen)...others?

I am kind of leaning going with all Rusty's stuff to ensure it would not have fitment issues with the frame stiffeners and the long arm kit.

I want to do things right the first time...I hate wasting money on upgrades just to have to do it again differently in the future.

 

I didn't look at your other thread. However we have lots of Jeeps in the family and there is a difference in how a TJ and WJ are set up. A TJ has everything sit higher on the frame than an XJ, so an XJ will be shorter overall than a TJ. Yet XJ coils on a TJ make it even taller than TJ front coils for the same lift height. Go figure. But to get to your point, I don't know how to get three head rests on a back seat. The ZJ, WJ seats won't bolt in with out modification. The only way I can think of to get shoulder restraints in the middle is to have an internal roll bar installed first. It is possible to get 35s on 4.5" with enough fender trimming.

 

@4.3L XJ Thanks. Yes, this thread wasn't as much regarding the rear seat question. From what I am seeing it will require getting an ZJ or WJ rear seat and then get another seat back from a ZJ or WJ and remove one of the head rest brackets and weld it onto the ZJ/WJ rear seat I am going to use. I do know it does require some trimming. As for the seat belt, I also agree I either need a rear bar going across to attach a 3 point or I have found some 4 point harnesses that have an anchor point that would attach in the rear floor board.

I am more trying to figure out all of what I exactly need to get me going with 35's. As we all know with Jeeps, things add up quick, so I am making sure I know what I am getting into. With all the things listed above and 5 new wheels and tires I am almost at 10k on top of the Cherokee's purchase price. If it is much higher than that, I figure it is worth going with a JK that needs a 4" or JL that only needs a 2-3" inch lift to get 37 to fit and still be able to flex and even less for 35's. But that is then getting into really big money in this crazy car price economy right now.

 

If it already has the Chrysler 8.25 in the rear I would keep it, the Dana 44 isn't enough of an upgrade to be worth the trouble, if it's a 2001 model the front low pinion Dana 30 is what I would be worried about with 35s, either find a high pinion Dana 30 out of a 99 or earlier XJ or put a Dana 44 in the front. For gearing 4.56 gears if you stay with a Dana 30 or 4.88 gears if you swap a Dana 44 in the front is what I reccomend.

 

@00t444e Thanks for that info. I thought all XJ's had the HP Dana 30...that is why I was not concerned with the D30...well I agree that I need to then upgrade the front axle also...bummer.

How do I know if it came with the Chrysler 8.25 vs. the D35. It is my buddy's XJ and he lives about 6 hours North of me and doesn't know any of that info. Did certain trim levels come with the 8.25? I do know is, it is a 2001 Sport. If it is not easy to just know, I can ask him to take a picture of the rear axle so I can see if it is a D35 or 8.25.

I feel like I know most of the ins and outs of the TJ and now I am having to learn all the specifics of different years of the XJs.

Thanks.

 

So my buddy sent me a picture...it is the Dana 35 unfortunately...oh well, now I need and front and rear axle for 35's.

 

Yes you will. There are people on here that have run 35s on your axles, but you have to be easy on the gas and it is not a good idea to lock that D35, even though I have done it
Sounds lilke yoiu don't mind getting your hands greasy. If you get the 8.25, your cheapest rear axle, make sure it is 97 and up

 

Didn't know 2001 xj came with d35...

 

All XJs could have come with a Dana 35 rear.

And to double up on something 4.3 wrote - you definitely don't need 6.5" of lift for 35s - that is unless you don't want to cut any sheet metal. If you're cool with that, you can get away with 4.5" or even less to get 35s - it's all about bumpstops and downtravel!

I have 4" of lift and 33s with Napier fender flares and am thinking of 35s for my next set. I have the room.

Also, I know this isn't supposed to be about interior space but have you actually sat inside an XJ - especially the back seats? I think a lot of folks forget that these are compact SUVs...

 

One thing I would like to add is that stock steering parts, along with an adjustable trac bar is fine for 4.5" of lift. But at 6.5" you reach the limit of what the stock tie rod ends can accommodate and then you might want to start looking at steering upgrades, most of which have their own issues. But the guy here with 7.5" of lift says that if you are up to it, go for it

 

Any particular reason why they still came with the d35 rear? Just out curiosity.

 

My understanding is that the D35 axle was the only one that had the ABS systems. Just a production decision really

 

I wouldnt get stuck to much on wanting 35s.

33s with sliders lockers and good rubber will go nearly everywhere 35s lockers and sliders will go.
Lift height to me isnt concern if its a trail rig. Youl be putting more towards protection and bumpers to make anything possible

Lockers and traction will tear xj axles apart regardless of tire height.

Im currently hopefully strong enough now for 35s with chromoly axles in place. I still go around on eggshells ive broke So many dana 30 shafts since locking the 30 both with 33s and 35s

The 8.25 does seem to be pretty strong and take abuse from a welded carrier. Id definitely run disc brakes so tire doesnt separate incase a axle does break.. I broke a 27spline 8.25 shaft and ran 60 miles on the freeway with caliper holding everything together

4.56 gears and 35s mandatory id also run 4.56 wirh 33s.
I run 4.88 35s and want to go slower still..



Taller Lift brings more work to get steering, driveline and all around driveability to acceptable levels..
I say when in doubt cut it dont Lift it.

Things that require Lift are if you have a targert suspension stroke your after
Say you want 12" in the front. 5" up travel 7" down is a good point to be in.

10" stroke is easier to make work when limited to factory mounting points

Lots comes into play everything gets harder when stuck to factory limitatains and tall lifts. To me tall starts at 3" 5-6" is nose bleed level