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Old 05-16-2016, 04:32 PM
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Hi this is my first jeep
It's a 2000 Jeep cherokee sport 4.0l which needed a new engine. So I said the hell with it and picked up a new Jeep 4.6 Stroker engine from Golen engines it will be dyno to break it in.
Now the question l have is the exaust is I guess California emissions and has the 4 oxygen sensors how can I by pass the Catalytic converters or should I just gut them out and keep the sensors?

Thank you
Ron
Old 05-16-2016, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Egidio
Hi this is my first jeep
It's a 2000 Jeep cherokee sport 4.0l which needed a new engine. So I said the hell with it and picked up a new Jeep 4.6 Stroker engine from Golen engines it will be dyno to break it in.
Now the question l have is the exaust is I guess California emissions and has the 4 oxygen sensors how can I by pass the Catalytic converters or should I just gut them out and keep the sensors?

Thank you
Ron
Leave it all stock.
Old 05-16-2016, 08:37 PM
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X2. It work best in stock form
Old 05-17-2016, 10:41 AM
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One thing that may help you a little is high flow cats and a good exhaust system header, muffler but never remove or punch out the cats.
Old 05-17-2016, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Egidio
It's a 2000 Jeep cherokee sport 4.0l which needed a new engine. So I said the hell with it and picked up a new Jeep 4.6 Stroker engine from Golen engines it will be dyno to break it in.
I have this same engine. You will not be disappointed. Get Chad to take a video of the dyno run and post it on YouTube so you can see it. It's fun to see the video of it making all that noise.

Originally Posted by Ron Egidio
Now the question l have is the exaust is I guess California emissions and has the 4 oxygen sensors how can I by pass the Catalytic converters or should I just gut them out and keep the sensors?
It's actually against forum rules to discuss deleting catalytic converters. In this case you don't want to do it anyway. If you tried to remove them, the sensors would sense that they aren't there and affect the mixture. To even be able to do it, you would get into having to replace the wiring harness and computer with one from an EPA emissions 2000, and that would be a pretty big pain.

If your precats get clogged, or you just want to replace them, you can get the cheap (under $300) replacement from Walker or the expensive ($800) replacement from Magnaflow if you want bolt-ins. Or you can buy high flow universal cats and have them welded in. Personally, given the temperamental nature of that emissions system and its tendency to throw O2 sensor codes if you sneeze at them, I would leave the existing cats alone unless they fail. That's stainless pipe that's in there, so it would actually be a downgrade to go to the Walker.

On a different note, that motor really, really wants a header. I have a set of Banks Torque Tubes on mine. They'll bolt right in above your cats. You're already dropping $5K under your hood, so what's another $400?
Old 05-18-2016, 08:01 AM
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http://www.modernperformance.com/pro...ust-components

Pre-flash tune era this is what the SRT4 guys where using. It is for off road and track use only.
Old 05-18-2016, 11:08 AM
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Great I would like to thank everyone for their help. Just picked up a set ofBanks Torque Tubes. I also been looking at the 2 row flex a lite 3 fan radiatorits $900 though I would like to remove the clutch fan.

Thanks again and if anyone lives near Shelton CT you can stop by and helppull the motor.
Old 05-18-2016, 03:33 PM
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When are you pulling it? Not a mechanic. Never pulled one but wouldn't mind helping. Do most of my own work though. Simpler stuff. Figure it could be a learning experience. Kind I wouldn't mind having hoping to never need. I am about 20 exits north of you on RT 8.
Old 05-18-2016, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Egidio
I also been looking at the 2 row flex a lite 3 fan radiatorits $900 though I would like to remove the clutch fan.
Wait until you have the motor thoroughly broken in (past the first 1000 miles) before you consider that, because you probably won't need it. You'll be starting with a clean block without junk built up in the water jackets, and I'm assuming you'll be replacing all the cooling system components with the new motor. Once you've done that, aftermarket electric fans will likely be unnecessary. The engine fan, when the clutch is working properly, actually pulls more air more efficiently than most of the electric fans. There are better things to spend your money on.

My stroker got all new cooling components, including a stock fan clutch, a stock water pump and a 195° Stant thermostat, but I bumped up to a CSG three-row radiator and a 16 lb. cap. It runs rock solid with the needle just under the 210 mark in any weather and traffic. I don't know how it might behave crawling over rocks, but I doubt I would see a big difference. I had been considering other heat management strategies, including electric fans, but they have been completely unnecessary.
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