Ok so I am ready to upgrade my front and rear axles on my 2000 XJ sport to Dana 44 front and rear, but looking to get some reviews as to which ones. I've been mainly looking at G2 axles, and needing a selectable locker. Also needing to re-gear and looking at 4.10 gears. It is my daily driver but every chance I get I am either doing hill climbs, mudding, and a little rock crawling here and there. What are y'alls thoughts? G2 or I've seen that dynatrac makes some decent ones. I'm looking for something I can do a direct swap with little or no fab work.

 

What size tires do you plan on running?

 

Im lost here.
You want to upgrade to custom built big boy axles that will run at least a couple thousand a piece for a complete axle. Then your only upgrading to 4.10 gears which makes me think 31s or 33s. At such a small tire you dont need such a beef axle..

Fill us in on what exactly your wanting to do.

 

G/2 D44 = stock Low Pinion TJ D44 housing. Known to be no stronger of a housing then the D30. Not to mention the R&P when compared to a typ stock D30 high pinion, is only marginally stronger if at all. And your driveshaft will be lower. Not to mention super thin and weak Dana installed brackets that many fold over or rip off. ALL Negitives.

The rear is a stock TJ D44 rear with tubes the size of a wet noddle at chow's bistro down the street. And the axle ends are the smaller bearing and seal.

basically, G/2 is NOT AT ALL WORTH THE $

Give me a call or email if you looking for true strong D44 builds that will cost less or at worst the same as the weak stock TJ D44 crap. But mine will be build by Currie with the new RockJock D44 centers and HUGE Tubes and less then going direct.

Robert
RWK Haus Supply
714-875-2414
robert@rwkhaussupply.com

 

I am currently running 33x12.5 but probably going to upgrade the next set to at least 35's. I know that isn't a huge tire and that's why only the 4.10 gearing, possibly the 4.75. I am looking for the beefier axle as more of an inurance policy. This is an all around rig that gets used on pretty much every terrain and I'm a fan of not doing trail repairs. Also since I am putting full lockers in so I figured do everything at once. But that is why I posted this so that I can learn from people with more experience and knowledge.

 

For 35's you will probably want 4.88's.

 

You dont want 410s and 35s. 456s on a manual, 488s on an automatic.
Never even heard of anyone running 4.75

 

Ok. That brings up my next question as far as gearing goes. With this rig currently being my daily, would 4.88's be too low of a gear range for higher speeds?

 

It's what you need to run if you're planning on 35's. Thats the deepest ratio stock axles can run and will put you as close as possible to being back in the power band of the engine compare to stock.

 

4.10s and a 5spd are ok, 4.56s and 35s are more common with a manual trans. 4.88 if you have an auto. I run 5.13s with 35s and an auto.

 

How "racecar" is your xj with the 5.13s?

 

Not at all. It weighs 5000lbs. My old xj with 33s and 456s was way faster

 

I will add forget the rear dana 44 get a 96 up ford explorer 8.8 its not a bolt in but once you have the spring perches and shock mounts welded on it is bolt in.If you truss it and run a super 88 kit it will be strong and cheaper up front then a xj dana 44 which is rare as hell.

 

I Fully Disagree and I am in the Drivetrain industry so can say this with experience.

A D44 can be found typically. Craigslist, ebay, recycler, or car-parts.com

A d44 will cost 200-400$
A F8.8 will cost 100-300$
A locker for the F8.8 is limited as to options and if your looking to save money and get a air locker the Yukon Zip is only 700-750 for the D44, the F8.8 is only arb at 200$ more.
Gears for the 8.8 are about 50$ more.
You have to cut off crap on the F8.8 and get new crap to weld on. D44 bolts in.
D44 is correct width. F8.8 isnt
D44 has centered pinion, F8.8 isnt.
D44 will not need aftermarket shafts or c-clip elim kit with is 200-500$ extra cost.

 

How many people do a c clip elimination though?