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Needing Advice for a Future XJ Setup

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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #31  
1991Jeep_Man's Avatar
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
Year: 1991
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Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by FrankZ
The only parts I ordered were the front output shaft because I was pressed for time, and a SYE from JB Conversions because it had the massive 32 spline shaft to handle the increase torque and HP.

The stock linkage can be modified to work, I tried and hated the results. I ended up doing a mod similar To this one:
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

Try this:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/np231-38011/
I really like that t-case linkage. Seems simple enough, and it allows the shifter to remain in the same spot? And by down lever, I imagine the guy was talking about the way the stock XJ shifter does that L-bend. This mod allows it to be a straight shifter? And thank you for the t-case info. I'll def be getting in touch with my cousin at the JY he works at. Seems simple enough.

Btw, this is the SYE you were talking about, correct?

http://www.jbconversions.com/product...1j_std_sye.php

Last edited by 1991Jeep_Man; Jun 10, 2011 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #32  
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You'll have to modify your existing linkage in order to maintain the stock shift pattern.

This is the kit I used:
http://www.jbconversions.com/product...1c_std_sye.php

See my original thread on NAXJA for installing the correct VSS.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 05:04 PM
  #33  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Frank, in regards to your overheating issue, do you think this radiator with the addition of the Ford Taurus fan might prove to be a solution?

OPTION 3:
HEAVY DUTY THREE ROW
SpecificationsCore Size:31 X 10-5/16 X 1-13/16Inlet Header:10-5/16 X 2-1/2Outlet Header:10-5/16 X 2-1/2Inlet Connection:1-1/4 PASSENGERS SIDEOutlet Connection:1-1/2 DRIVERS SIDETransmission Oil Cooler: YESEngine Oil Cooler:NONEMounting:TOP CRADLE/BOTTOME PINNotes:THREE ROW, ALL METAL
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #34  
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I'm running an all aluminum 3 row right now...still runs hot above 65 mph. i've got plent of airflow.

Weighing a couple radiator options right now.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by FrankZ
I'm running an all aluminum 3 row right now...still runs hot above 65 mph. i've got plent of airflow.

Weighing a couple radiator options right now.
I was looking at the Novak radiator that was tossed around a few times. That's a serious amount of coin for a radiator. And I don't see how it would produce the cooling needed for the 350 if the HD 3 row isn't doing it. Plus, that one guy John I think is running a stock XJ rad. How is he getting by with good temps? Maybe the 350 in your XJ has a bad water pump or t-stat? Or needs flushed?
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0
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Outta curiousity why does everyone say 350?
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:56 PM
  #37  
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pump is fine, the radiator is just not up to the task at higher speed.
PAnfd it's 5.3L (325ci) ...not a 5.7L (350ci)

JohnD on NAXJA replaced his OEM radiator with a Becool, but he still gets a bit warm at time as well.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 01:17 AM
  #38  
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I am a chevy dodge guy that loves his jeep so I was wondering since the numbers were off to me lol. I'll hit um my contacts and see about this crazy 350 radiator people are talking about that's crazy small. Idk if it will work but ill see. Might help
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:46 AM
  #39  
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I'm an idiot for gettin the c.i.'s mixed. I think I'll just stick with saying '5.3' lol. By the looks of things, I think Novak has some secret heating element in the mounts or something to create need for their rad. Kinda like how you had to buy their headers to clear the mounts lol. But in all honesty, when I do this swap, I think to save some hassle I might just save and save (and save some more) and just bite the big bullet for their radiator. Hopefully it would work well.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
I'm an idiot for gettin the c.i.'s mixed. I think I'll just stick with saying '5.3' lol. By the looks of things, I think Novak has some secret heating element in the mounts or something to create need for their rad. Kinda like how you had to buy their headers to clear the mounts lol. But in all honesty, when I do this swap, I think to save some hassle I might just save and save (and save some more) and just bite the big bullet for their radiator. Hopefully it would work well.
shop summit find a good thick aluminum radiator that will fit...when you do your 2 inch lift make sure you get some heavier coils motor+trans are a bit heavier unless you go with an alum block instead

Originally Posted by wiki
The LM4 (VIN code "P") Vortec 5300 is an aluminum block version of the LM7, and had a short production life. It should not be confused with the L33 described below.
LM4 applications:

LH6

The LH6 with Active Fuel Management replaced the LM4 for 2005, and was the first of the Generation IV small block V8 truck engines to go into production. It is the aluminum block counterpart to the LY5.
LH6 applications:
LC9

The LC9 Vortec 5300 is the Flex-Fuel version of the LH6, and is found in 4WD models. SUV applications are rated at 310 hp (231 kW) and 335 ft·lbf (454 N·m) of torque.
LC9 applications:

also tell your ford 4.0L buddy that the thing puts out 207HP and 238lb ft. i have the highest output one in a ford. comparing both motors the v6 revs alot happier like a damn car motor not like a truck. torque is in a dumb spot and until i regeared i couldn't go up hills in 4 hi with bigger tires.

Last edited by cdawall; Jun 12, 2011 at 11:10 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #41  
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Will I need a new set of control arms and steering stabalizer with my lift?
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Will I need a new set of control arms and steering stabalizer with my lift?
not for 2"
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