2000CHERO

Need a reamer to ream WJ knuckles for swap, I was going to drill out and get the inserts, but would rather ream as I don't weld so I would have to pay someone, on top of buying the inserts.

Reamers are like $60 on Amazon so I'll buy one if I have to. I have a bunch of XJ parts(OEM and aftermarket) laying around for trade to borrow the reamer, or have someone come and do it.

Thank you!

toasterknight

You don't have to weld the inserts.

2000CHERO

I suppose I don't, but every thread I've read says to do so. I would still have to buy the inserts as well as the 3/4 bit.

SeriousOffroad

Never weld the inserts.

SeriousOffroad

If you're using inserts, why do you need a reamer?

2000CHERO

No no no I want to ream instead of using inserts.

I was going to do inserts but decided not to.

Goferit specifically says weld the inserts why would you say never? Just wondering..

SeriousOffroad

Because 99 percent of people that own a welder don't know the first thing about preheat and post heat. Both of those steps are critical when Welding to cast steel parts.

Also, excess heat applied to a tapered insert will deform it causing you to purchase a reamer to correct the damage done by the excess heat.

2000CHERO

Oh ok, so just because of the welding, I was thinking because of some other reason. I would have the guy that welded up my axles do it, if I was getting the inserts. He did the tubes, perches, and shock mounts on my 8.8.

My thinking of going the reamer route is 1: it's cheaper to buy a reamer(if I can't borrow one) than buying the 3/4 bit and 3 inserts. And 2: the ~1/8" lip of the insert is ~1/8" space I can have for the tre to clear the wheel(I've mentioned in other thread of doing heim, but will be doing tre).

andrewmp6

Call a few machine shops see how they charge you to do the knuckles and pitman arm.

Wiggleworm

When you ream the knuckles you'll have to decide where you want the taper to seat. I say this because the taper on mine was longer than the thickness of the arm. I chose to make mine seat so the nut was against the arm then I made a delrin washer to hold the tie rod boot against the tie rod end. Or you can seat the taper lower and use a steel washer between the arm and the nut. I used offset tie rod ends ES23434.

XJwonders

U could ask machine shops if u could "rent" reamers

2000CHERO

Thanks, I'm going to call a few today see what they say. A lot of machine shops here in Buffalo, I'm sure one can do it for me.

Bustedback

I have a reamer, paid 65 bucks for it and only used it once. I had a hell of a time finding it too. I hope you have strong wrists, reaming the knuckles is not as easy as it sounds and is time consuming.

2000CHERO

Did you hand ream? I was looking at a 1/2 shank drill reamer..

Bustedback

Nope, used my 1/2" air drill. The reamer would catch and send the drill spinning. It can really torque the wrists and you can get slapped in the head with the hose if you're not careful.