Elijahh

Hey guys, I'm new here and I'm not really sure where to post this, so I'm goin to post it here and hope for the best.

So I'm looking at lifting my XJ 4.5-5.5", and I keep getting told in a fb group to stay away from rough country. So I kind of want some opinions on the 5.5" Critical Path Long Arm Lift Kit, and Im not exactly sure what else I'll need to buy with the kit. Ive been reading, and from what it seems like, I should also be buying a steering stabilizer, SYE, CV driveshaft, and probably regear to 4.10.
This is my second jeep, but I've never lifted one or anything like that, so I'm kind of just looking for guidance on where I need to be looking and what I need to be looking for, yknow? If I 4.5" doesn't need to regear with 33s, in your opinion, should I stay with a 4.5" lift, or just go to 5.5"? Thanks guys! :

Elijahh

Btw, I have a 2001 xj np231

dans98xj

You only need to re-gear if you change your tire size. if you are looking to go to 33's you will probably need 4.56 gears instead of 4.11's. As far as lift requirements if you are looking at a full long arm kit then it should have everything to get you up and running. Some parts don't come with lift kits, like new adjustable track bars, shocks, sway bar end links. I would look the kit over really well and see what other parts they recommend to be purchased with the kit.

j4mison

First of all, Rough Country isn't BAD per se... It's a beginner lift, and you do get what you pay for - that being said, I would rather just spend a little bit more and get it done right instead of possibly redoing your suspension down the road when rough country craps out.
From what I've read, steering stabilizers don't do that much, i don't have one at all. You will absolutely need an adjustable double shear trackbar, I'm running rough country's, I believe it was somewhere around the $150 range.
I'm 2wd so no experience on SYE's yet but 99% of people on here will tell you go with SYE first and do not t-case drop to save you money and time in the long run.

And lastly, regearing depends on what size tire you're going to be running.. For 33's, most people go 4.56 with an auto trans, if you're planning on going to a 5.5" lift, you could trim your fenders and get some 35's, which would probably call for 4.88's.
also, despite what people say - regearing is NOT a must. It helps an incredible amount, and you'll feel like you gained so much hp just by doing it, but you can run on stock gears with 33's for awhile... it'll just feel sluggish.

IRO has nothing but good reviews from most people, I know a lot of people on here bash rough country, I've had 2 friends get RC and start sagging within the year. I personally have a Zone Offroad lift, after 15k miles no sagging at all and everything is still running smooth; I vote for them. (also, if you call up there, they'll hook you up with a major discount.) at 4-4.5" short arms are at the end of their limit, any higher and you need long arms. If you do decide on the 5.5", from any company, you'll need to make sure its long arms and also I would get upper control arms.

this is a list of all the companies that make lifts for our XJ's, in the medium price range, Rubicon Express, Iron Rock offroad, and Clayton offroad are the one's I've seen get the highest reviews.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/je...mpanies-76868/

a great lift reference chart,
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/

andrewmp6

And to change the gears in the axles if you don't have the tools or know how you might wanna play someone else to do it,And keep in mind it will be the best time to add any kinda locker you want since your already there.

travisrr

I'd go with a rubicon express 3..5 inch lift. You actually get at least 4.5 inches of lift. It comes with everything you need besides a track bar. The instructions tell you to redrill the track bar bracket if you want to run the factory track bar. I did this. It's not my daily and many people will tell you not to run it this way. I haven't had any issues when wheeling.


I think the 3.5 inch lift is borderline of when you start running into needing additional components, SYE etc... I didn't have any driveline issues but went ahead and installed a T case drop to help with the drive line angle.

bad_idea

I have 4.5" of lift w/ 33s on my 90 4.0l w/ the auto. I installed control arm drop brackets on mine, cheaper and easier than long arms. Sacrifice ground clearance, but for my intended uses it will be fine. Rough Country double shear track bar, so far so good. PORC SYE, installed myself, so far so good. Front drive shaft on rear. 8.8 from Explorer (4.10 gears w/ LSD) with IRO spring perches and shock mounts. Welded it up in the garage, $100 for the axle, $60 for the brackets on Craigslist. My speedo now reads 100% accurate (verified with GPS), which tells me I am back to stock ratios. I'm sure 4.56s would give it more pep, but it's not a dog now. The Jeep rides very smooth with no vibrations. I have more into the tires than lifting it. As far as springs and shocks, I pieced those together from used parts, nothing to talk about there.

Fred/N0AZZ

A true 33" tire needs a 4.56 gear to bring it back to stock tire gear size. A 31" tire needs a 4.10 gear but a lot of people get by with the 3.55's to save money.


I currently run 33's and a set of 35's with 4.56 gearing while great on highway with the 33's for mileage and power almost wish I had went with the 4.88's now.


If you plan on staying with 33's and re-gear at least go with the correct gear a 4.56 your engine and trans will thank you.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I initially went with 33's when I put a 6" long arm under my xj. I didn't gear it right away. Sure, I got away with the stock 3.55's but boy was it a dog. Then I stepped up to 35's. woooo weee was she even worse. That's when I did my axle build. I went with 4.56's just because the size of the pinion for a Dana 30 axle starts getting extremely small and is an obvious weak point. I don't regret it and I doubt there would be much of a difference with 4.88's.

Don't cheap out on your lift kit. Remember, this is what you're essentially riding on which is keeping your butt from sliding down the road! You want high quality springs first and foremost. Cheaper kits will have your XJ sagging in no time. A solid track bar setup is always at the top of the list as well.

What are you going to be doing with your jeep? What kind of wheeling do you do? How much road driving will it see? These are all factors in choosing what direction to go in with your XJ.

I built my XJ while living in the mountains of PA, making trips to Rausch Creek from time to time. I built my rig accordingly. I recently moved back to my home state of NJ of course taking my XJ with me (because I'll be buried in this b*tch). The terrain is much different and there's very little that can challenge my rig. So I'm essentially saying, build your rig so it suits your needs.