motor mounts
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Or, if you're dying for an upgrade, get the Brown Dog rubber ones. Best of both worlds.
#5
#6
why buy cheap replacements? they will just fail again. I have always run brown dog rubber with the super block brackets. there's a little more vibration til they are broken in, but it goes away. its a nice feeling not having your drive train flopping around ( yes you can feel a difference)
I know its a bit spend for some, but the super block brackets can save you from an expensive and time consuming repair f you snap the bolts holding the stock bracket on. It will suck even more if it happens on the trail away from civilization. I rreccommend it to anyone who wheels hard or plans on having their rig for a long time.
I know its a bit spend for some, but the super block brackets can save you from an expensive and time consuming repair f you snap the bolts holding the stock bracket on. It will suck even more if it happens on the trail away from civilization. I rreccommend it to anyone who wheels hard or plans on having their rig for a long time.
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
i killed a set of stock rubber ones wheeling, i can't say they are great but the vibration i got from the poly bushed ones i have now i can't stand granted i'm picky... sounds like i have to look into those brown dog rubber ones myself
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#8
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Keep the following in mind when scoping out your brackets on the block.
From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com
This is a known issue.
1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.
2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.
3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.
The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.
The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!
In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.
From Jon Kelley aka 5-90 @ www.kelleyswip.com
This is a known issue.
1) Unless you're going to get silly with the skinny pedal, 2xSAE8 screws on one side won't be a huge problem. You'd be better off with three, but if you don't get silly you'll be okeh.
2) The Brown Dog engine mounts use two or three additional holes on each side, and spread the mount/clamping force over more of the block. This is invariably a good idea, and I'll probably be doing it as I refit my 88.
3) The primary reason that the screws snap is because, sometimes, the screw holes in the block aren't drilled & tapped deeply enough. This causes the screw to bottom out in the hole, so you end up torquing against the bottom of the hole instead of stretching the screw (as you're supposed to do. Not your fault - you aren't doing anything wrong.) The screw is not stretched properly, and the head is not butted up against the bracket, so there's some room to move there. Vibration then causes wear cycles on the screw, which generally leads to rupture.
The easy/cheap fix? When you replace the screws (3/8"-16x1.25", as I recall,) put two flat washers under the head before you screw it into the hole.
The check? Take a feeler gage (.003" to .005") and try to slide it under the head of the screw. You'll be able to get under the corners (look at the hex head, and you'll see that the surfaces curve toward each other slightly) if it's a standard hex head - if it's a flanged hex head, you should not be able to get under the head anywhere. If you can slip the gage under the head, you have a problem. If you can touch the shank of the screw, you have a big problem!
In no case should you reuse the screws after you take them out - they'll be stressed under the head, and you'll have a significant reduction in strength. Replace them outright, putting washers under the head as I mentioned before. The washers will make up for the slight lack of depth in the hole (two of them will be about 0.125" or so,) and allow the screw to be preloaded properly.
#9
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Year: '99 and '91
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If you're are buying these for something that sees more road than rocks, I'd go for stock replacement. If you wheel this thing I'd get Brown Dogs, those stock mounts don't hold up long when you get your engine sideways and bouncing around.
Also, put a new trans mount on at the same time.
#10
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I replaced my stock mounts with the ones from Napa. It didn't last 3 months.
I got Iron Rock motor mounts. I like them a lot and when the rubber goes bad all you need are bushings. It looks a lot like leaf spring bushings not sure if its the same.
I got Iron Rock motor mounts. I like them a lot and when the rubber goes bad all you need are bushings. It looks a lot like leaf spring bushings not sure if its the same.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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I have brown dog polys waiting to go on.
this is more of a dd but when i got them cash was tight and i hadn't properly researched, but from what i read the vibes are only noticeable at idle, so we'll see.
this is more of a dd but when i got them cash was tight and i hadn't properly researched, but from what i read the vibes are only noticeable at idle, so we'll see.
#13
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
why buy cheap replacements? they will just fail again. I have always run brown dog rubber with the super block brackets. there's a little more vibration til they are broken in, but it goes away. its a nice feeling not having your drive train flopping around ( yes you can feel a difference)
I know its a bit spend for some, but the super block brackets can save you from an expensive and time consuming repair f you snap the bolts holding the stock bracket on. It will suck even more if it happens on the trail away from civilization. I rreccommend it to anyone who wheels hard or plans on having their rig for a long time.
I know its a bit spend for some, but the super block brackets can save you from an expensive and time consuming repair f you snap the bolts holding the stock bracket on. It will suck even more if it happens on the trail away from civilization. I rreccommend it to anyone who wheels hard or plans on having their rig for a long time.
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.