Take a look at the MetalCloak kit too, I think they have one of the best "bolt-on" kits on the market. Their dual-rate coils are really cool and I wish they made them in different sizes for the XJ (4.5" and 5.5")

The OME kit is always going to be a sure bet, but I have heard that the rear leaf springs are a bit soft if you are towing with 200+ lbs of tongue weight

 

 

Dang,, that is nice looking,,, Real Nice.
We have already trimmed the wheel wells and were planning napier flares.
I was real curious how it would look with 31's. looks perfect.

 

As stated, there is a threshold of ease of install. 31s and 3" is the max on the easy (cheap) side of that threshold. Step over 3" and you need an SYE due to driveline angles. Step over 31s and you need to regear. Do both and your work list goes through the roof. That said, here is my combo that handles excellent on the road, is capable off road, and reliable:

33x12.5s on 15x8 wheels w/ 4" of backspacing
5" of lift
Cut fenders and stock flares moved up 1 3/8" (looks ok, not amazing but very functional).
CAD brackets w/ longer LCAs and stock UCAs.
Double shear track bar w/ drop bracket.
Drop pitman arm.
JKS quick disconnects (not 100% necessary, but you do need longer sway bar links).
5" springs front and back (new OME springs in rear, ride nice).
Longer shocks.
SYE w/ XJ front double cardon shaft in rear.
8.8 rear axle (stock D35 won't take the bigger tires and abuse) geared to 4.10s
Regeared front axle to 4.10s.
Upgraded to WJ booster (stock brake setup barely stopped the jeep with factory sized tires).

I did all of the work myself. Pieced the lift together with multiple manufacturers parts, some sourced used. Some parts made myself. All told, I think I have $2500 into lifting it including the wheels and tires. Everything is quality, no cheap garbage on my jeep. Also, that includes all new suspension components and brakes (pads, rotors, ball joints, etc).

If you are looking for something cheap, simple, and effective for your son - stick with the 31s and 3" of lift. If you have the shop, tools, and know how then I say go all out and go big.

 

Bad Idea,
Not looking for cheap. I would rather put a ton of money in a modest 3-3.5" lift and do it right.
We have the shop, but when done I don't want something that is going to be a handful for a young driver and I don't want something that is going to be a maintenance headache. Build it once, build it right.

 

Looks like 3" lift is the threshold for major "reworking" of the suspension. (drive shaft vibration, control arms, etc)
Up to 3" is somewhat stock, but once you step over 3" (3.5") you have to start reworking a lot more things?

So who makes a good quality 3" lift? comparable to OME 3.5 lift?

Thanks,
Slack

 

Ah thats the million dollar question. I am personally piecing together lift components into what I think is the best 3 inch lift, haven't made up my mind however

 

We had RC 3" lift and it rode rough. Even though you can run 3" lift, you will experience a jarring ride whoever's kit you use due to the control arm angle. That is why long arms ride much better, almost like floating, as the angles are similar to stock angles. You will also have bump steer and sometimes death wobble due to too little caster. We added a SYE right up front even though you can get by without one at 3".

We've done 3", 3" + adjustable arms, 4" long arms- Y link, 3 link and 4 link, and 5" long arm 3 and 4 link. Now doing rear long arms and coil springs. That's how the progression goes.

Just finished 'lifting' our 'Daily XJ' with 28" tires and used stock front worn/broken in stock springs and 1 3/4" spacer and extended bump stops and rear stock leaf with a few 3" lift leafs thrown in and extended bump stops. It rode OK. Jarring front over street bumps and wandering steering.
Added drop sway bar brackets, RC drop pitman arm, forged track bar with drop bracket and LCA Drop brackets. All to get the front suspension back closer to stock geometry. I will say that it rode much nicer than before. Steered better, Caster was still off and needs adjustable LCAs.

Ordered a set of CORE adjustable LCAs off Ebay with stock rubber bushings on both ends for NVH and longevity, don't need flex on this Daily XJ. Will lengthen these adjustable LCAs 1/2-1" over stock and get the caster back to stock specs.
Yeah to do it right costs more but then again the ride and steering will be much much better.
Sway bar drop $40, drop pitman $50, Forged track bar and drop bracket $130, dropped LCA brackets $200, adjustable LCAs $160, all costs on top of your lift kit costs.

For a trail beater, I wouldn't bother with getting the suspension geometry correct and would just add a 3" lift kit.
At least you need a kit with new coils, slightly longer LCAs, non-adjustable are fine, and rear leafs and not add-a-leaf and redrill or new bracket for track bar and new longer shocks.
White body shocks work well but only last a few years.

 

This is where this discussion always goes. More is better. Before you get into spending money, I suggest you start with where you want to be when it is done. But remember. The more you do to it, the more you will have to do to maintain that daily drivability.

 

It will be a DD and occasional Camping/Fishing rig (Fire service roads, BLM Land, etc)
Honestly if you took "emotion" out of the equation, a 1.5" lift, skid pans, front and rear selectable lockers and 30" tires would get us 99.99999 of where we need to go. Throw in a winch and your golden.
But have no "wow" looking factor, and it is my sons (and mine) project so I have to throw in some wow his way.

From my reading, any thing over 3" lift and the problems start showing up and money is needed to solve them, or a least mask them. If we are on a week long back country trip, reliability trumps everything else.
That said, I have settled on (I think) the OME 2.5 lift, after installing I'll see where it sits and shim it (spacers, shackle, etc) to just under 3",, but a lot of reviews are say that OEM kit is getting 3" of lift.
Definitely drop brackets for the UCA and LCA's and track bar, and after market UCA/LCAs
This should take car of the suspension.
Drive line angles,, I am **** about vibrations, hate them.
For the rear drive shaft I am not sure I want a double cardan joint, My understanding is I have to rotate the rear pinion up to be in line with the shaft. Not sure I want to solve one problem and possibly create another (pinion bearing not getting enough oil)
I just starting to look into the rear driveshaft options,, but have a lot more studying to do.

Slack

 

i honestly dont see why you need droo brackets for the control arms on a 3 inch lift. Just get adjustabke arms if you are doing that imo

 

RC and RE both recommend a minimum of 4.5" lift for the control arm drop brackets. You can get away with just adjustable lowers. I would lift it 3" with new coils, leaf springs and longer shocks, then see how it does before you go spending and possibly wasting money on stuff you don't really need.

 

Or it is the other way around. If you have 4.5" lift- you need control arm drop brackets to use short arms.
So reality is there is no requirement for using the control arm drop brackets, but there is a requirement for using 4.5" lift and short arms.
That is why anything over 3" lift, like 4.5" lift you really need long arms.

SlackDaddy- I think you have a good plan with the OME 2.5" kit. It might be 3" after install but the springs will settle to 2.5".

 

That should be fine. We're on 6.5" Long Arms and 33" BFG KM2's and it rides great on the highway. Just please make sure your son understands this is NOT going to drive/respond like a car and thus to use a little more caution. Happy Wheeling!