Slackdaddy

Wrapping up the rust/body work on my sons 2001 XJ project.https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/2001-silver-bullet-build-235088/He is 16, so highway drivability is a factor
This will be his DD and occasional camping/fishing rig, no rock crawling or mud bogging. Typical trip would be BLM land trails to fishing/camping spots, fire roads, etc.Originally we were thinking 4-4.5” lift and 32” tires, 410 gears, staying away from auto lockers, so maybe LSD in the rear?What I don’t want is to lift/tires, then spend the next year trying to regain drivability back.So would 3-3.5” lift and 31” tires be a lot better for drivability?Stock control arms? Drop brackets? Long arm?We have trimmed the wheel wells and will be using Napier or bushwacker flares, so I have concern a higher lift with smaller tires will look funny in an trimmed wheel well?So at what point do you really loose highway drivability and pick up annoying this like vibrations, taking up 2 lanes, death wobble, poor gas millage, premature wear?

Thanks,
Slack

4.3L XJ

I think for what you have said you will do with it, a 3" lift on 31s would be the best

Sota

TwistedWrench

Bingo.

OP, this is a VERY popular combo, and for good reasons. Its fairly straightforward. Lift springs, shocks, LCAs, trackbar, brakelines. Done.

Once you take an XJ above 3" things get quite a bit more complicated.

3" lift and 31s will give you a rig that is FAR more capable than 95% of the drivers who own them.

Driving a lifted Jeep is DANGEROUS with a less experienced driver. The higher the lift, the more dangerous it gets. The 3"/31 combo gives you the cool stance, serious off road capability... but at least retains SOME reasonable road manners.

For the purposes you listed, bone stock with a good set of A/Ts would get the job done just fine honestly. But that doesnt really look as cool.

soapy

I went with a 3.5 inch super ride lift from Rubicon Express and 31 inch tires. I put a spartan lunch box locker in the rear. This combo worked well for me. The ride is much nicer than stock.

FromTexasInColorado

If you stick with 31x10.5's, you can survive with stock gearing. This will save a significant amount of money over regearing it.

I went with 31's and 4.5 inches of lift from a rubicon express superflex kit. I wheel regularly with 4 in the car and was worried about sagging. I still have stock fender flares which look nice and only rub slightly at full stuff. I like the look and the rubicon express lift with monotube shocks is very stable.

jay_sco

Another vote for 3" lift and 31's.

CobraMarty

Anything over 2" you really need to consider a SYE. Transfer case drop or 'Hack and Tap' for cheaper options.

For best ride/drivability/reliability you need to keep 'near stock' suspension geometry.

For 3" lift/ 31" tires I would use RC control arm drop brackets, RC drop pitman arm and RC forged track bar with dropped bracket.
You can then use whoever 3" lift kit you want. RC, Zone, RE, Rusty, etc. Extended shocks, springs, add-a-leaf or better leafs.
Don't forget longer SS brake lines and rear axle shims about 4*.
Avoid heim joints for street/DD.

You can do it 'cheap' or you can do it right.

Martlor13

Imo thise arent needed at 3 inches. Majority who do this just use a 3 inch kit and go and ot drives and performs greaf. 3 inches isnt too tall for the components. To me, its anything higher then 3 thag those must be considered

00t444e

I have a 3" lift with stock everything else and it's fine, to run the CAD brackets, track bar, and track bar drop bracket you need at least 4.5" of lift.

Slackdaddy

I think we have settled on 3-3.5" of lift and 31" (32" max) tires, most likely regear to 4.10
I am going to be running OME springs,, unless someone can point me to other lift springs comparable in ride comfort.
I just cut out the rear shackle brackets, and fabbing up/welding in some "no lift" adjustable brackets, to keep the rear shackle at 45deg.
Definitely doing something with the control arms and track bar, most likely simple drop brackets.
Looking to build a "capable" camping/fishing" and trail rig, that is safe and comfortable to drive on the highway.

Slack

Slackdaddy

I looked at your build thread,, nice job.
We fabricated and welded in 2x6 x 1/8" rock sliders. I thought I was a good welder until I tried welding the sliders to the 20ga sheet metal, mine looked like $hit,, yours looked great.
I ended up grinding them down and brazing a lot of areas, just to get a smoother "weld"
I have practiced some since then, and found pre heating the thicker metal helps a little,, what was your secret?

Slack

tinytrax78

i ran for years on a 3" lift with 235/85/16 witch are about 32"x9, i did not run a sye but i did use a crossmember out of a manual cherokee (mine was a aw4 auto) this gave my auto nearly 1 " of drop without loosing ground clearance from a t case drop kit i loved this set up tires wer cheap in that size then since all the 1 ton trucks at the time wer running them and the skinny size was less harsh on wheel bearings and ball joints also i ran v8 zj steering since it was much heaver duty and still cheap and available .being low you will want to pick up some skid plates , i got mine at pull a part off a police k9 xj , i got the front,gas tank and t case one all for $22 the wrote them up as scrap metal LOL
"

TwistedWrench

Good plan bud. You cant go wrong with OME springs, good stuff. 4.10s are a perfect match to the 31" tires, accelleration and mpg will be reasonably comperable to stock.

Id go 3". Ive done both 3" and 3.5" on XJs and theres not enough benefit in that extra half inch to offset the difference in ride quality.

Being that he's 16, id recommend leaving the sway bars in place. For its purposes, max flex isnt needed, and itll keep it more stable on the road.

jay_sco

Thanks for the kind words. My secret? Beginners luck? LOL! But seriously, I'm hoping that most of it got decent penetration on the 1/4" tube. I've contacted a couple rocks and they havent popped off but I haven't really "slid" with them...yet. I focused the main bead about 1/8" away from the sheet metal. With a higher heat setting this seemed to be the sweet spot to allow the bead to contact the thin stuff just enough to melt and mix without blowing through.