Those two outers are part of the diode which is now internal to the alternator, so you probably wouldn't want two sets of diodes working at the same time.

^ What he said

So I should leave them tapped up..?

Cut the external diode off, cap it, and eliminate. Hook the field wires up and enjoy.

As stated previously solder the joints and heat shrink.

Completed pics?

SeniorXJ did you ever get this completed? I am running into the same issue myself with a 160 amp alt that has the plug in but my 98 has the bolt on field wires with the external diode thing. I got the pigtail off a Durango and a newer XJ from the junkyard just to be safe lol but I want to solder them in properly and wasn't sure if as Mechman told you it doesnt matter which you connect to which. This is seriously about the only forum post I could find on this with good info so I'm hoping to resurrect it from the dead haha

Darklight 5280, I'll be installing a Mechman 240A alternator in the coming weeks. I looked into a Durango alternator but couldn't source one from Rock Auto, ebay, etc. I also thought about an AC DELCO reman but 160A ended up not being enough output for my application anyway but is a good option for many.

If I'm not mistaken, you'll need to swap/solder a new harnss/adapter to fit the Durango alternator and you have to be sure it comes off the right year/model as well in order for it to bolt up/align properly. Also some grinding of the alternator bracket in necessary to fit it into the the bracket and its a somewhat tight space near the frame. I've read some horror stories of alternators not fitting in there on some model years but I can't confirm from experience.

Anyway, I will also update the thread with my experience in the near future. Just finished a Jeep Cables Big 7 Upgrade (2 gauge). Would highly recommend doing the same especially if you plan on running a high output alternator from Mechman, Powermaster, DC Power, Mean Green etc. So far it sounds like the information contributed above is accurate and I would trust it.

I would also like to hear from SeniorXJ about his complete experience and hopefully he will chime in with more updates or maybe he sold it and moved to the Subie Forum jk lol.

Best of luck 👍

Eric

Eric I appreciate your reply on this. I ended up just lopping off that whole diode plastic whatever it's called piece and had no issues. I soldered on the 99+ alt plug that I pulled off a junkyard XJ and got my 160A alt in, been running it for almost a year now with zero issues so for you or anyone finding this thread in the future that's all it takes! Also agreed, I upgraded all my cables preemptively a couple years back and have been incredibly happy with the outcome (faster window up/down aww yeah! lol) and definitely is necessary for running a high output alt. LOL funny you mention the Subie forums, seems like there is quite the crossover with XJs and Subarus. Me being one of them lol. XJ is the toy, Subaru is the daily. Wish ya luck with the Mechman! I'm sure you won't have any issues though, it really is not that bad of a job in the long run.

Hey all,

I’m resuscitating this thread for a current problem I have. I had to replace the alternator on my 92 HO and bought an alternator that only works for 2000/1. Long story short, I can’t return it now.

I have a pigtail to match the old field wires to the new alt plug, but there’s varying advice on what to do from here. I spliced the green field wires to the new pigtail but the system is only running off the battery once jumped.

I know the 92 had an external regulator in the PCM and the new has an internal, but does anything need to change because of that? I currently have the B+ connected and two fields.

I’ve read 20+ threads in this and still can’t figure it out. Thanks.

If you have figured this out can you send a pic of it finished? Also can you send a pic of the ground wire to the pig tail, I cut mine and can’t figure out where the ground wire is.