long arms
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Provo UT
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 89 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
long arms
What is the best long arm design? Is three link or four link better? Which is the most accurate effective way to diy?
Last edited by xj2; 01-09-2011 at 11:58 PM. Reason: appeal
#3
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hesperia
Posts: 2,021
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
radius is easiest and flexes more than enough. im more than happy with mine
3 link has more flex than radius arms,
4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.
iirc terraflex is coming out with a front 4 link kit and when they do im going to copy it and build my own since i cant seem to find one of them there money trees
3 link has more flex than radius arms,
4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.
iirc terraflex is coming out with a front 4 link kit and when they do im going to copy it and build my own since i cant seem to find one of them there money trees
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cape cod ma.
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
go too fab threads my longarm build....(not for my design but for the advice i have been given) BTW best thing i ever did.. should be on the first page still
#6
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by sandaddik2
4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.
#7
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I have heard nothing but good things about this kit
Poly Performance
and its 3-link cousin
linky
It's the one I'm planning on getting when I finally upgrade.
Poly Performance
and its 3-link cousin
linky
It's the one I'm planning on getting when I finally upgrade.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,127
Received 287 Likes
on
237 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
radius is easiest and flexes more than enough. im more than happy with mine
3 link has more flex than radius arms,
4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.
iirc terraflex is coming out with a front 4 link kit and when they do im going to copy it and build my own since i cant seem to find one of them there money trees
3 link has more flex than radius arms,
4 link is almost impossible to fit under the front AND get good geometry out of it BUT you dont have a trac bar and as many bump steer issues as the other set ups.
iirc terraflex is coming out with a front 4 link kit and when they do im going to copy it and build my own since i cant seem to find one of them there money trees
your both wrong in a sense about the 4-link setup..... look at the front of ANY Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, or TJ/JK Wrangler........ they all have a 4 link style setup and have you ever driven one without a track bar on the factory suspension???? not a fun ride lol
but back to the topic at hand, my 10" LA kit is still an after market 4-link style, after hitting the trails in my good buddies 10" lifted XJ with a radius arm front this summer i'm changing mine over.
#9
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Florence SC
Posts: 2,266
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
3 Posts
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0
they are not talking about the OEM 4 link they are talking about a true double triangulated 4 link set up. Done right no need for a trac bar as the upper and lower links locate the axle and allow for full travel with out binding on the joints.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Provo UT
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 89 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
how do you get the measurements right on radius arms as far as angles for the links go?
Last edited by xj2; 01-10-2011 at 07:43 PM.
#11
CF Veteran
your both wrong in a sense about the 4-link setup..... look at the front of ANY Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, or TJ/JK Wrangler........ they all have a 4 link style setup and have you ever driven one without a track bar on the factory suspension???? not a fun ride lol
but back to the topic at hand, my 10" LA kit is still an after market 4-link style, after hitting the trails in my good buddies 10" lifted XJ with a radius arm front this summer i'm changing mine over.
but back to the topic at hand, my 10" LA kit is still an after market 4-link style, after hitting the trails in my good buddies 10" lifted XJ with a radius arm front this summer i'm changing mine over.
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,127
Received 287 Likes
on
237 Posts
Year: 1987 MJ, 1998 XJ, 1973 J2000, 89 waggy
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0L H.O
lol i know what you guys meant, i was just messing with ya, triangulated 4-links are what i think are the best way to go.... much more rigidity and solid and smooth travel, but as for what i personally like from my closest friends experiences with their setups, i'm going to run the radius arms...
as for the measurements i couldn't explain it to you, i haven't set up a radius setup YET, but if your still needing help with it this summer i can diagram out how we setup mine
as for the measurements i couldn't explain it to you, i haven't set up a radius setup YET, but if your still needing help with it this summer i can diagram out how we setup mine
#13
CF Veteran
lol i know what you guys meant, i was just messing with ya, triangulated 4-links are what i think are the best way to go.... much more rigidity and solid and smooth travel, but as for what i personally like from my closest friends experiences with their setups, i'm going to run the radius arms...
as for the measurements i couldn't explain it to you, i haven't set up a radius setup YET, but if your still needing help with it this summer i can diagram out how we setup mine
as for the measurements i couldn't explain it to you, i haven't set up a radius setup YET, but if your still needing help with it this summer i can diagram out how we setup mine
Plus its really not that much money.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: cape cod ma.
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
um..not to be a ***** but i got questioned alot on my design and after looking at the staangs LA add on kit i'm not to keen on a few things 1. it only bolt to the stock crossmember bolts and they are only weldnuts in sheet metal. 2.the crossmember is multiple pieces with bolts holding them together i would at least weld it all together.3 if an adjustable radius arm (basically what that is) holds together then i'm doing that because that's a hell of alot easier then my plan.. just saying