Long arm vs drop bracket
I have a 2001 XJ, with a 3 in rough country lift (add a leaf and springs)
I want to move too long arm and up to 4.5 to 5 in lift. I got some rear shackles and a shackle relocation so my rear hight is fine. Now on to the front, I think I'm going to use a 1.5 - 2 inch puck on my 3inch springs. As well as going with Bilsteins shocks. And I've already installed a SYE. I currently do 70% on road 30% off-road, (trailing and overlanding) no crazy rocks or nothing.
But my ride quality is horrible, everything in my front end is new (bushings, tie rods, teach bar ect) so now the last thing is the control arms, I could get Rubicon Express upper and lower adjustable control arms, with just some RC 4.5-6.5 lift drop brackets for 687.74$ on sale. Or RC long arm kit for 749.95$. I've heard mixed reviews on the RC stuff some say they have no problem others hate them. Im just worrying that the drop brackets will catch on stuff while over landing (I'm going to move to 50% on road 50% off once I finish suspension) but I also do like the idea of welding stuff on, or drilling tons of holes (a couple are ok). RE long arm kit requires welding, which I'm not experienced enough to be comfortable with doing that. Like I would be fine if rough countries bushings lasted a year or two, And then I could replace them with Johnny's bushings or something if they make them that size.
(Side note: I have some decent tools, but do all my work from my driveway or on the street)
And I'm looking to get this done sometime before this summer. So I can hit some trails. But I also want it reliable enough to drive me to work.
I want to move too long arm and up to 4.5 to 5 in lift. I got some rear shackles and a shackle relocation so my rear hight is fine. Now on to the front, I think I'm going to use a 1.5 - 2 inch puck on my 3inch springs. As well as going with Bilsteins shocks. And I've already installed a SYE. I currently do 70% on road 30% off-road, (trailing and overlanding) no crazy rocks or nothing.
But my ride quality is horrible, everything in my front end is new (bushings, tie rods, teach bar ect) so now the last thing is the control arms, I could get Rubicon Express upper and lower adjustable control arms, with just some RC 4.5-6.5 lift drop brackets for 687.74$ on sale. Or RC long arm kit for 749.95$. I've heard mixed reviews on the RC stuff some say they have no problem others hate them. Im just worrying that the drop brackets will catch on stuff while over landing (I'm going to move to 50% on road 50% off once I finish suspension) but I also do like the idea of welding stuff on, or drilling tons of holes (a couple are ok). RE long arm kit requires welding, which I'm not experienced enough to be comfortable with doing that. Like I would be fine if rough countries bushings lasted a year or two, And then I could replace them with Johnny's bushings or something if they make them that size.
(Side note: I have some decent tools, but do all my work from my driveway or on the street)
And I'm looking to get this done sometime before this summer. So I can hit some trails. But I also want it reliable enough to drive me to work.
Last edited by Edwards.anthony; Mar 25, 2022 at 12:52 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
As far as RC goes, there are mixed reviews in my opinion depending on how long you have used it. The bushings wear out quickly
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
You're going to get every answer under the sun, but the bottom line is a true long arm is going to have better geometry and be less likely to get hung up. I highly suggest not rushing into anything, do your research, look at several options, then buy quality and cry once.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 14,479
Likes: 805
From: Blunt, South Dakota
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.6 stroker
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
I agree, they were predatory and I don't recommend them either. I was just giving an unbiased quality issue type of opinion
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 332
Likes: 72
From: Nashville
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Gonna go against the grain here. I’ve had a RC 4.5 x series with drop brackets for 3 years. Zero issues. Flex joints greased regularly. Bushings all still in very good shape. I go off road 1-2 times a month, overnight camping all that stuff. LBL and Windrock here in TN. Some rocks here and there.
I understand there may be a lingering reputation for poor quality in the past, but I am just sharing my experience.
I understand there may be a lingering reputation for poor quality in the past, but I am just sharing my experience.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here's another option you may consider https://www.rocky-road.com/cherokee-...-arm-drop.html Interesting explanation in the ad.
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Even with my 3.5" of lift, if I were to do it again, I would go long arm because like you said, the ride quality with the angle of the short arms is getting bad. My idea, which I may still follow up on, is to use air assist shock absorbers. Basically, use a 2 inch budget lift with the longer shock absorbers and obtain the lift needed off-trail with airing up the shocks. Everyone just keeps saying that the vehicle isn't designed to support the weight of it by the shock mount points, but... every speed bump you hit is transferring a LOT more weight than the ~200 pounds of the air lift assist. They are strong enough for the couple hundred miles of offroading done each year for 30 years. There are air assist shocks for a mid 1990's Blazer that are the same physical specifications as the old man emu rear shocks. I haven't yet found some suitable for the front, though. I could raise and lower it from inside the vehicle using my onboard ARB compressor.
But if you want ride quality, you'll need rubber suspension bushings somewhere, and the long arm kits that I am aware of are using Johnny joints or heim joints. The rubber really cushions stuff where as the metal-on-metal heims and Johnny joints transfer the energy of the bumps right into the vehicle. And I am not sure what size tire you are running, but you may want to stick with the 3 inches of lift and get bigger tires and trim out the fenders if necessary. The benefits of a lot of lift start getting negated by poorer road manners and the higher center of gravity. And with small tires, the axles are still flirting with the rocks.
But if you want ride quality, you'll need rubber suspension bushings somewhere, and the long arm kits that I am aware of are using Johnny joints or heim joints. The rubber really cushions stuff where as the metal-on-metal heims and Johnny joints transfer the energy of the bumps right into the vehicle. And I am not sure what size tire you are running, but you may want to stick with the 3 inches of lift and get bigger tires and trim out the fenders if necessary. The benefits of a lot of lift start getting negated by poorer road manners and the higher center of gravity. And with small tires, the axles are still flirting with the rocks.
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