Long Arm lifts... please help
ok so im considering buy a cherokee(after i sell my taco)
but anyways i want to do it right and im going straight to a nice long arm lift like rough country long arm lift
but i have a Q. so im kinda a weekend warrior and not really hard core wheeling. but next year i need to travel 40 miles a day 5 days a week( next year is the only year i need to do this)
but if i go with 6.5" LG will it shake/dangerous going 65-70 mph?
if so how much safer is the 4.5 LG going 65-70?
but anyways i want to do it right and im going straight to a nice long arm lift like rough country long arm lift
but i have a Q. so im kinda a weekend warrior and not really hard core wheeling. but next year i need to travel 40 miles a day 5 days a week( next year is the only year i need to do this)
but if i go with 6.5" LG will it shake/dangerous going 65-70 mph?
if so how much safer is the 4.5 LG going 65-70?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
also switch over to balancing beads for your tires...
k thanks for the info..... i was just asking cuz right now i have a taco with a 9" lift( 6 in suspension and 3" body lift) and once i get it up to 65 it shakes pretty good. not violent shake but you can feel it
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
i am at 7.25" with the RC LA kit and have ZERO vibrations up to 101 (havent gone faster as i dont trust my tires)
it all comes down to if your bushings are worn, tires balanced ect.
it all comes down to if your bushings are worn, tires balanced ect.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,251
Likes: 1
From: Missouri
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
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do you guys know if there is a bushing install right up on here?(sorry i only know how to work on yotas)
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
it is just a rubber bushing on one end an a johny joint on the other. when you buy a new kit it comes with the jonhy joint write up....
oh... i thought so but i did want to assume anything....
so if you guys had to travel 50 miles a day 5 days a week for a year then after that just around college/ and wheeling(not too hard core) what LA lift would you go with?
so if you guys had to travel 50 miles a day 5 days a week for a year then after that just around college/ and wheeling(not too hard core) what LA lift would you go with?
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 890
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From: ............
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by bowhunter11199
so on realiablitly how do cherokees compare to similar year tacoma/toyota?

I'm also running the RC long arm kit on mine and it's great. Wouldn't change a thing.
Last edited by JCKustoms; May 28, 2011 at 09:59 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 309
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From: Wrightstown, NJ
Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
I was running the 8" Rusty's long arm kit on my old Cherokee and had no issues with it. The only issue I had was at around 73mph, the Jeep would start to shake, but that was due to the tires (36x13.5 IROK's). I ran those arms for two years till the Cherokee got totaled and never did I have to replace a bushing (one bushing got wrecked from the accident but the arms weren't damaged and that was after hitting an F350 head on).
Personally, I would stay away from the RC kits as they have tons of bushing issues. I've had buddies (and have seen a lot of people on here) where the bushings wear out in a few months. RC's answer to that is just to send you a new bushing instead of fixing the issue...
I'm to the point of making everything myself now and prefer all true 3-link setups, which is mainly just the RockKrawler kits if you want to buy a bolt on one. IRO makes some beefy stuff but I'm not a fan of the y-link setups (two bolts whole your whole front end in place). Whatever you choose, try to opt for the largest bolt you can get if they have options.
Personally, I would stay away from the RC kits as they have tons of bushing issues. I've had buddies (and have seen a lot of people on here) where the bushings wear out in a few months. RC's answer to that is just to send you a new bushing instead of fixing the issue...
I'm to the point of making everything myself now and prefer all true 3-link setups, which is mainly just the RockKrawler kits if you want to buy a bolt on one. IRO makes some beefy stuff but I'm not a fan of the y-link setups (two bolts whole your whole front end in place). Whatever you choose, try to opt for the largest bolt you can get if they have options.


