Thanks for the in depth explanation.

At first the jeep will be for you know, daily stuff, and on the weekends go out in the woods and have some fun. I dont think this will involve any rock crawling, more likely mud terrain and stuff like that. Like said above, I think with a 3.5" lift I'll go with 31s, but as far as the brand goes, I dont know that yet.

 

I just installed the RC 3" Series II with full leaf packs and 2.0 shocks. I ordered a rocky road adjustable tracbar and I'll have it installed tomorrow when I have the wheels aligned.

I say order full leaf packs. I had to cut through 3 out of 4 leaf eyes to remove leafsprings. An add a leaf wouldn't have been an option as I destroyed every eye. My jeep is a 2000 but was from Wyoming and they may salt the roads. It took probably 12-14 hours for the install with a helper. This is with some breaks and alot of frustrated sitting around.

However, the ride is sick. I removed the rear swaybar and am getting used to the way it feels while cornering. I run 31's right now but will probably move up to 32's. I say go within your budget. I can add spacers/shackles/adustable control arms later, if I want to go higher. That will probably require an SYE. Ive been at 75 mph with no alignment and very little vibes. I think after an alignment I'll be sitting pretty. Remember, the higher you go and the bigger the tires, the lower your MPG.

Ive upgraded my injectors, put in a CAI, and installed a 2.5" catback and I'm pretty stoked at how the jeep has evolved. I need to get back on my build thread - havent updated since I took of the side molding haaaaa.

I may not be the most seasoned of jeep vets, but if I can help, lemme know!

 

Yeah before creating the thread I was not aware of the SYE / Adjustable trackbar / transfer case drop stuff. Good thing people replied.

Should I install the lift alone first and then see how the Jeep performs? Then if vibrations occurs, go into the slip yoke eliminator and everything? As of right now I'm not planning on going higher really, just want something more than stock.

Thanks for the reply!

 

if you are not installing an SYE and are keeping the OEM rear DS you need to split the U-joint angle between the 2 U-joints.

If you DO go for the SYE and get a double cardan rear DS you will need to point the pinion @ the TC output yoke.

You'll need a magnetic inclinometer to do this. You can find them in the Home Depot hardware department.

You may need to shim, you may not. Depends on how you achieve the rear lift.

Note that the angle does not need to be bang on. If your pinion points 1 or 2 degrees below ideal it's ok, -n fact it's probably better because under acceleration the rear axle will tend to rotate backwards a bit pulling the pinion up a little.

 

Alright, thanks alot.

So if I understand correctly, this is what I have to look for in a lift (feel free to correct me if I didn't get something right or missing something):

- Rubicon Express 3.5" w/ leaf packs will fit 31s with no trimming.
- Possibility of having to get a SYE kit (is it really necessary? is it still possible to drive fine without heavy off road without getting one? Because I'll have to gather more money before being able to buy a new driveshaft and all that)
- If I want to reach abit higher with that RE lift without having to get a whole new lift, use 1" spacer and 1" lift shackle to gain an inch.
- Adjustable lower control arms recommended if I ever want to go higher.
- If I don't go with the SYE kit, I will have to split the u-joints angle.

 

You are correct. If your not planning on doing any real flexy offroading then i wouldnt worry about the sye. But you may have to get a shim to set up the pinion angle of the rear axle, most likely not.

 

Keep in mind that the RE 3.5" kit will end up netting you 4-4.5" so you still might end up going higher than you wanted. And spending more cash than you plan.