Thinking about getting a RC 3in lift, what else I need ?
05-08-2012, 08:07 PM
#1
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Thinking about getting a RC 3in lift, what else I need ?
So Im thinking about getting a RC 3in lift and then buying 31s or maybe 32s if they fit. ( maybe some new rims as well)
I have a budget so before I even start buying anything I want to know what else I need to buy if I go 3inches.
I have a 98 xj 4.0 4 wheel drive. Do I need longer brake lines, sway bar links, t-case drop, steering stabilizer, umm what else ? Just want to know if I need anything else if I get the lift just so i have an estimate of how much its all going to cost.
Im not to much into offroading yet but, just did some light trails for now until I do some upgrades. So Im still pretty new and I dont know everything, it would help if you guys could list some of the things I would have to change if I go with a 3 in lift to see if itl be with in my budget.
Thanks
I have a budget so before I even start buying anything I want to know what else I need to buy if I go 3inches.
I have a 98 xj 4.0 4 wheel drive. Do I need longer brake lines, sway bar links, t-case drop, steering stabilizer, umm what else ? Just want to know if I need anything else if I get the lift just so i have an estimate of how much its all going to cost.
Im not to much into offroading yet but, just did some light trails for now until I do some upgrades. So Im still pretty new and I dont know everything, it would help if you guys could list some of the things I would have to change if I go with a 3 in lift to see if itl be with in my budget.
Thanks
05-08-2012, 08:15 PM
#2
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Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
With a 3 inch lift you just need shocks for a 3 inch lift,you shouldn't need a tcase drop or anything else,I didn't on my 94 and 31s will look great under it 32s may rub unless you cut a few inches off the fenders, here is mine with a 3 inch RC with shocks but I'm running 33s, and I added lower control arms from RC cause a bent a factory one,
05-08-2012, 08:20 PM
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
looks good, like the bumper. Okay sounds good if the lift is all I need thats great. 3in lift and 31s 
cant wait. How wide do you guys get the tires ? 10.5 or 11. something?
cant wait. How wide do you guys get the tires ? 10.5 or 11. something?
05-08-2012, 08:29 PM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got the RC 3" lift too, with full leafs. Here's what I needed for my 2000 XJ.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
Last edited by 77olds; 05-08-2012 at 08:33 PM.
05-08-2012, 09:04 PM
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got the RC 3" lift too, with full leafs. Here's what I needed for my 2000 XJ.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
05-08-2012, 09:18 PM
#6
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I also just did a 3" lift, but it netted 4.5" somehow, front and rear. I had to do a transfer case drop as well. Also had to replace my stock shackles as they made a ton of noise after putting the new leaf packs in.
05-09-2012, 12:56 AM
#7
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L
Get the kit with lower arms and get yourself a yj rear brake hose, remove rear sway bar, i didnt need a trac bar but did need a tc drop. 31s rub on mine i had to trim plastic end caps on both bumpers some.
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05-09-2012, 09:17 AM
#9
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Originally Posted by huntsman
looks good, like the bumper. Okay sounds good if the lift is all I need thats great. 3in lift and 31s cant wait. How wide do you guys get the tires ? 10.5 or 11. something?
cant wait. How wide do you guys get the tires ? 10.5 or 11. something?
05-09-2012, 09:29 AM
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by 77olds
I got the RC 3" lift too, with full leafs. Here's what I needed for my 2000 XJ.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
-Adjustable Track Bar (went with JKS)
My front axle shifted over to the driver's side after the lift.
-1" T-Case drop (just used 1" square tube from the hardware store)
I had some bad vibrations until about 35mph until i dropped it.
-New nuts and bolts for both front and rear shocks
My rear shock bolts had been replaced once, but 1 of the new ones broke. No big deal, just get new ones. One of the front ones broke too, that's even easier to deal with since they're so easy to get to.
-An alignment to get Toe back to spec
My wheels were toed in after alignment - imagine walking with your feet angled so your toes were closer together than your heels. That's what toe-in/toe-out means. It's bad for tires and handling.
If you unbolt the sway bars from their mounts rather than unbolting the sway bar links, you'll be able to easily bolt them back into place once you lower the vehicle back onto the ground. You don't need longer links, I'm still running both front and rear stock links and they reach just fine, don't appear at all to be straining to reach. They will on the trail when it flexes, though, so quick discos are my plan.
I didn't replace my steering stabilizer because it's still good. If yours is worn, replace it. You might need a beefier one if you're running bigger, wider tires.
My kit came with coil springs, leaf springs, and front and rear shocks.
The ride is great, and only minor death wobble at 50mph sometimes.
I said in another thread that a lot of people here will tell you "oh you don't need this" or "you don't need that". A lot of people are OK with doing half of a job.
The thing they're not telling you is that their Jeep drives like crap, but they don't care.
If you want a nice driving XJ, spend the extra money and do it RIGHT.
Here's mine.
05-09-2012, 10:30 AM
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
eriejeep nice, Mine is green as well but yours looks nice with the lift and black rims/tires.
I was debating if I should go with a 3in or a 2in. Since I mostly do road driving and on the weekends I want to hit up some off roading. It just seems like a 2in lift isint so much. Would I be able to fit 31s with the 2in lift ?
Eriejeep mentioned that I need new bolts, so the kit does not come with them ? Kinda weird.
If you guys could can you post a link to a full kit that includes everything I need, and I think if I go 2in I shouldnt need a t-case drop or longer sway bar links, or any of that so il save some money.
Anybody got any pics with a 2in lift?
hehe swear jar lol
I was debating if I should go with a 3in or a 2in. Since I mostly do road driving and on the weekends I want to hit up some off roading. It just seems like a 2in lift isint so much. Would I be able to fit 31s with the 2in lift ?
Eriejeep mentioned that I need new bolts, so the kit does not come with them ? Kinda weird.
If you guys could can you post a link to a full kit that includes everything I need, and I think if I go 2in I shouldnt need a t-case drop or longer sway bar links, or any of that so il save some money.
Anybody got any pics with a 2in lift?
hehe swear jar lol
05-09-2012, 12:18 PM
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
eriejeep nice, Mine is green as well but yours looks nice with the lift and black rims/tires.
I was debating if I should go with a 3in or a 2in. Since I mostly do road driving and on the weekends I want to hit up some off roading. It just seems like a 2in lift isint so much. Would I be able to fit 31s with the 2in lift ?
Eriejeep mentioned that I need new bolts, so the kit does not come with them ? Kinda weird.
If you guys could can you post a link to a full kit that includes everything I need, and I think if I go 2in I shouldnt need a t-case drop or longer sway bar links, or any of that so il save some money.
Anybody got any pics with a 2in lift?
hehe swear jar lol
I was debating if I should go with a 3in or a 2in. Since I mostly do road driving and on the weekends I want to hit up some off roading. It just seems like a 2in lift isint so much. Would I be able to fit 31s with the 2in lift ?
Eriejeep mentioned that I need new bolts, so the kit does not come with them ? Kinda weird.
If you guys could can you post a link to a full kit that includes everything I need, and I think if I go 2in I shouldnt need a t-case drop or longer sway bar links, or any of that so il save some money.
Anybody got any pics with a 2in lift?
hehe swear jar lol
http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_3x.html
That one is what I am running and it is just fine. You will just need to buy U-bolts, which is like $7. Honestly, do not lift your Jeep the "cheap" way. Save up for a good kit and go from there. If you just throw pennies at your Jeep's Suspention, that's all you'll get out of it, low performance and a crappy ride. Why do you not want to run a TC drop? And even with a 2" lift, you will benefit from longer sway bar links and the TC drop. Those are the things that cost the least amount of money. Do not make them your breaking point on buying a lift kit. Just because you bought it, doesn't mean you have to install it right then and there the day you get it.
Last edited by brendancfarrell; 05-09-2012 at 12:53 PM.
05-09-2012, 02:48 PM
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I also have the series II kit. Mine actually came with 2 sets of U-bolts so I would call and ask when ordering. Also it came with brackets to drop the sway bar where it mounts to the body. I used longer links though because if you have a front skid the sway bar brackets won't work (plus I broke the stock ones haha) Like mentioned, use PB blaster or the like, it makes all the difference. As far as transfer case drops, get one. From what I've read the newer body styles 97-01 have more affects from lifts.
05-09-2012, 03:40 PM
#14
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Year: 1995 &2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I got my lifts for both xjs from a web site all it come with was front coils and aal with u bolts, I added shocks later then lca's. My 2000 I had to get a adjustable trackbar since my axle was not center and rubbed driver side fender flair plus the factory one is worn out it's on 31s with 15x8 chrome mods with 3.5 backspace .
