Jeep Xj 6.5 requirements.
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4
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From: Oregon
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
What’re the things I’m going to need? No half *** answers please. Just sold my old xj to build this one with time and correctly. Also, I’m going with Rustys. Should I be getting the long travel kit?? I just need to know the things I’m gonna have to be upgrading with the 6.5 lift. Looking to run 35s with it.
Last edited by TaylorMariiie; Feb 11, 2020 at 05:07 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 50
Likes: 9
From: Florida
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.9L Magnum 360CI
I would recommend the long arm for that much lift. You will want to address adding a slip yoke eliminator kit to the transfer case and a rear cv drive shaft. Address the steering geometry. Maybe upgrading the steering linkages and a drop pitman arm. If you are running 35s, you are going to want to rewear to at least 4.10s with AX15 or 4.56 with AW4. Again I say at least. Lastly brakes. Need to stop all that heavier rolling resistance.
CF Veteran

Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 469
From: Southern OH
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
A Hack n tap SYE with a front driveshaft in the rear will work fine. A long arm kit is a good idea, along with an adjustable track bar. For steering I'm using the ZJ tie rods 1" drop Pittman arm, steering box brace and it works fine with 5.5" coils in the front and 35s. I also had to cut of my old swaybar mounts and weld ones that go up higher so the tie rods didn't hit. For 35s I would recommend 4.56 gears for an auto or 5 speed.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
I would recommend the long arm for that much lift. You will want to address adding a slip yoke eliminator kit to the transfer case and a rear cv drive shaft. Address the steering geometry. Maybe upgrading the steering linkages and a drop pitman arm. If you are running 35s, you are going to want to rewear to at least 4.10s with AX15 or 4.56 with AW4. Again I say at least. Lastly brakes. Need to stop all that heavier rolling resistance.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yep, looks like you're looking into a long arm setup, which is the only way to go at 6+ inches, so that's good. and the kit looks like it comes well equipped. Rusty is an XJ guy, through and through, even tho i think his son is taking over somewhat.
i wouldn't go with Rusty's steering kit tho, i ran one and it was pretty flimsy, and tiny tie rod ends, i ended up having to sleeve his kit with some DOM tubing, but still had the weak (moog) TREs. go with the curry kit, at least. i wouldn't use stock (V8) ZJ parts either, they're ok for a budget build, but doing it right would use aftermarket parts. maybe upgrade later to hydro.
and bump stops, i would add those too, otherwise you are just gonna use your fenders as bump stops, and that's not good for either the body parts, or your tires. go for the SYE and tom woods shaft. nothing better for the money.
i wouldn't go with Rusty's steering kit tho, i ran one and it was pretty flimsy, and tiny tie rod ends, i ended up having to sleeve his kit with some DOM tubing, but still had the weak (moog) TREs. go with the curry kit, at least. i wouldn't use stock (V8) ZJ parts either, they're ok for a budget build, but doing it right would use aftermarket parts. maybe upgrade later to hydro.
and bump stops, i would add those too, otherwise you are just gonna use your fenders as bump stops, and that's not good for either the body parts, or your tires. go for the SYE and tom woods shaft. nothing better for the money.
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