joeylead

OK, I am a toyota minitruck to jeep XY convert as i needed something with a backseat. I got a 1990 XJ I6 4wd 2 door 129K orig miles in decent running condition for $400. I replaced a few things and need to address an overheating issue, but overall she is pretty solid. The goal was to build a cheap wheeler, preferable using all used parts. I just picked up a chryser 8.25 with a brand new aussie locker installed and never used to replace the D35.

The truck will be used for offroad use only (northeast wheeling, so mostly rocks and trails), but i plan on not choppin the top or anything like that. the plan is to keep it a very cheap budget minded build.

I have been thinking about tire lift combos and this is where I am at and could use some help. I plan to run 33's or 35's, it depends on which i can find in good shape used. I have a good lead on a set of 35's right now, but dont know of the 8.25 can handle it. I ran 35's on my toyota 8" rear though.

It looks like to run 33's 4.5 ie enough and for 35's 6.5 is good. i will trim the fenders as necessary.

In lookin at lift kits in those lift ranges, it and comparing new to piecing together used stuff, it almost looks like buying new you come out ahead (with using short amr kits) especially since the rough country lifts are reasonable priced. I know someone selling a claytons long arm kit for 750, but after adding in the missing stuff, it is about 1200. Still a good price vs. the RC 6.5 kit. Then their low grade 4.5" kit is like 450 bucks. To me it seems like the best option is their 6.5 x-series kit. I dont want to buy a new lift, but getting something used as compete as that kit ends up costing more. Do i seem on target here????

I have about $1800 to spend on the build at this point, to get a lift and tires and whatever eolse I can afford. I mean, if I go 33's and the 4.5 rc lift, it leaves alot of cash, but I would prefer to run the 35's and get a 6.5 x-series kit. Being you all have much more experience wit these jeeps, ai am looking for some advice on which direction to go in.

Here is a pic of the jeep:

KTMrider

What ever you do, don't get a AAL from RC. I did and it sagged out completely in about 1.5 yrs. If the jeep aint gonna be for on road use you can cut the fenders up something feirce. What I did was got a 3" lift and added a 2" bb bout 100$. Which consitits of a coil spcer and shackle. At that point you will be arounf 5" and with a decent bit of trimming could fit 35's.

The axle's you have 35's are the biggest you can go. The D30 cant handle any bigger. And Locked it can't handle a 35's. Best bet is 33's as to not risk over stressing them. I dont know if you have budgeted skids but they will be a must have. A ZJ gas tank skid will fit an XJ with slight modification. At that height the front sway bar will need to be adjusted. Either by a lowering bracker or longer arms to the sway bars. I can't remember the name off the top of my head.

Also for advice like this, post in the Tech section. This is more the section to show off your build and progress you make. And good luck! Jeep fever is something feirce to try to get rid of.

joeylead

I was originally planning on 33's which is why I got the 8.25. Also, I can do suspension work, but cannot weld which is why I didnt go the 8.8 route. Of course, I just saw a d44 rear for a cherokee for sale locally. But my friend might have a set of good 35's for cheap which is what got me thinking about them. I didnt want to get AALs because 20 year old springs, well i thought it would be bes to replace them. And for a 4.5" kit, it looks like the rustys offroad spring pack kit is the best deal

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ode=sus_xj_kit

My concern with adding lift to a 3" kit is the issue of control arms and also having to add a new track bar and stuff like that, after those costs I figured I might as well just get a bigger lift kit to start with.

I have jeep fever! It has replaced my toyota fever!

And for the mods, please feel free to move this to tech, i dont see an option to move the thread.

kellan_musseau

4" Iron rock offroad long arm and the 35s with trimmed fenders.

Im sittin at around 4ish inches and 35s and they even seem a little small. They fit no problem with a wee bit of trimming.

Paintballa0788

check out my albums. Just sent you a friend req.
I have built 2 drs and am working on my 3rd.(2 of which are 90s)
But I would def stay around 33s or 32s even until you upgrade axles. Im looking to move up 2 35s or 37s(with 2" bb added on top) on mine as It is a dd/ pull out my buddys when stuck and ride the occ trail, so Not much stress put on the dana turdy.
But I did upgrade to a d44 rear with disc brakes to better help the get up and go and relieve the stress and breakage on the turdy five.

But I would def just look at all your options, however, I would steer away from rc as they dont ride the greatest and make somewhat funky noises after several trail rides(IMO).
I like the rustys kits and Im about to be running RE on my newest addition.
So it really just depends on your likes and dislikes.
But read reviews and look all over here and then make your decision.
And if you need any 2dr crap feel free to lmk as I have a whole 90 2dr for parts to help along with my build and whoever elses needs help.... lol

Gl and happy building~Paul

joeylead

Love the jeep! Gives me a lot of ideas.

joeylead

IDK happened, i never go a friend request to your albums. Send it to joeylead@hotmail.com I am very interested in seeing what you built.

My issue is balancing cost vs. quality. Things like noise are not areal concern as this wont be my DD. I just want something that performs well but doesnt break the bank. My lift will really be determined by what size tire I get. If my buddy comes through with the 35's, it will be hard to resist. or if I find a decent set of 33's I will use them. The extra 1" of clearance with 35's isnt worth a ton of breakage. Do you think i can lock a D30 with 33's? Cause from my experience I will ghet farther in the rocks dual locked on 33's than just rear locked on 35's.

Either way, rightnow i am still torn on if it is cheaper to just buy a complete kit or piecing together used stuff.

Paintballa0788

idk, try again though... lol I just sent another one.

Paintballa0788

I hear ya. I mean My last xj was a piece by kit. I bought parts over time and put them together.
when it was wrecked and as it sits now it has this on it:
3.5 Rancho Springs
2" Teraflex Spacers
2" block
Pro Comp AAL


I had Factory:
Uppers/lowers
Brake lines
Sye
and a factory tbar. As it was a dd and I never had 2 really worry about flex. But, even with all that being factory, I had Plenty of flex whenever I would go out to pull my dumba$$ buddies out. lol
You were actually talking to me about my lift.... lol Just saw a pm in my inbox from ya.... haha.

But yea, I mean I ran 32s and I got more flex. If you run 33s with 5.5 you'll still get flex, but just not as much IMO.
Hell if your boy falls through with the 35s lmk and ill sell ya my 32s... lol
Looking to get my 35s anyways.... lol

But yea, you will get farther with dual locked 33s than you will with single locked 35s.

THanks~Paul

joeylead

Yeah, looking at your stuff made me sort of realize thatit might be cheaper to just buy a complete kit. i figured after adding lower control arms, and steering stuff, im almost right at the price of the rustys kit. It not like you could sell all that stuff for like 200, it isnt worth it for you. Although, I forgot, did you have the shocks for it??? (if you still even have the stuff...lol)

Paintballa0788

Lol. I hear ya. It really just depends on what you wanna do.
Like mine Im just buying a block for the rear and using the front superflex arms. Though not adjustable, will work for what I need... lol But, I will eventually upgrade to la's unless someone offers to buy these sooner.... lol 8)
But idk, just have to see.
But yea, It does come with shocks. I was asking 350 but have told several guys i would take 300 for all of it with the new shocks.

and keep in mind, if you buy all the stuff needed and then the la kit, your about 500 cheaper than the rustys kit... the shorty kit is 1100 and the la kit is 1800.....

kellan_musseau

My setup works well. Its not all about flex. If I were to do it again i'd go straight to 4ish inch long arm on at least 35s.

I dont think ill ever run something smaller then a 35 on a jeep again.

I only have a limited slip in the rear but as soon as its locked flex really doesn't matter THAT much. Yeah, it helps keeps the tires on the ground, but with lockers it isn't an issue.

Especially since its not your dd, go for the 35s. You can lock a d30 with 35s.
Pick up some spicer 760x u-joints, almost alloys from iron rock, and if you really want some upgraded axle shafts and your set.

joeylead

So I think im gonna end up getting my buddies 35's, they are dunlop radial mud rovers, not my first choice in tire and they are worn, but ill offer him 200 for them (also includes a fifth 35"BFG AT w. great tread). I am also consideriding buying (he just wrecked a 96 ZJ) his front and rear axle. I can use his rear disc breaks on my 8.25 and hos front 30 should have stronger shafts then mine. I have to look into it, but i also thought I could use his front brakes as well. I gotta do a search for that.