M really digging the style of the low cog build. I like the functionality aspect as well. It makes sense. Keep as much tread on the ground at all times right?

I was wondering if anybody could answer some questions I had about the build in general.

1. (Obviously) Price range.
2. Are there a lot of welding and cutting modifications?
3. Do you have to be a grade A mechanic?
4. What modifications are required to build this type of rig?

Thanks in advance.

 

theres no point. just go with a 3.5"-5.5" long arm and you'll be very happy


any relative info is already listed in the low cog sticky but that pertains to real crawling. the general argument is that lifting your jeep to high heaven isn't beneficial. if you're sticking with stock axles I wouldn't bother trying to be "low cog"

flat belly, high clearance bumpers, relocated gas tank, high clearance rockers, raised control arm mounts, these are good places to start. don't matter how low your jeep is if you've got a bunch of rock catchers hanging off the bottom


your questions are really vague, wish I had some answers. it depends on what your definition of "lowcog" or "built" is. my definition is wide axles, huge tires, and a lot of fender trimming

 

I think that's the question you need to answer first. What is your definition of LCOG?

To me, it means no more than 3.5" of lift and 33"+ tires. (more like 35-37")

as far as being a grade A mechanic, do you mean a professional mechanic? No, but you need to know how to measure three times and cut once, or be willing to pay for mistakes.

Obviously there will be cutting, and other modifications involved. so you have to be willing to do the work yourself, or pay somebody else to do it.

 

1. Depends on how crazy you plan, if you wanna go full blacks opps 4x4 then yes... very expensive. But if you want to just do a small lift with big(ish) tires its not that bad. I'm at 3.5" and 35 at the moment and its not to difficult to set up. I do have long arms though so It does help with articulation.

2. Once again depends how crazy you go. at the moment the only thing I've cut off has been the stock LCA brackets for my long arms. But there will be a lot more when the build really starts.

3. No but it helps if you have one to call on when you get stuck, I swear mechanics know black magic or something. I can work on something for hours and my mech will come do it in like 30 mins.

4 Atmos pretty much covered it.

 

There's a whole sticky thread on this above.

 

I have heard that long arms are not so lenient when it comes to larger hills. I guess my question is can you clear Modeeate trails and rocks? I don't want to go with long arms and then regret it. I'm sure it's tough to switch back to shorter control arms. I would consider a long arm 3.5" lift with maybe 35" and major trimming since my fenders are gone to crap anyways.

What's the hardest part to relocate?

 

lol **** happens when you're open in the front and want to make it but besides that I've haven't had much issues. but I will be switching to a true 3 link soon to help with the unloading. pics don't do anything justice but that's basically what I'm running. 3.5" long arms on 35s with chopped fenders lol. I have much bigger plans though.

I'm stuck on everything in the last pic

 

I am on 3.5 inch short arm lift on 32s and have only been stuck on my rear diff once. I really don't see the need for long arms unless you plan on wheeling a lot and hard. Just get yourself a locker and some good tires and you'll be OK. Even stock, xjs are plenty capable with the right tires and a locker.

 

Long arms are usefull at 3.5" with 35s because you have so little up travel. Most of the time you end up running a stupid long shocks to allow down travel and would have issues with the axle getting pulled back too far as the short arms drop. I personally plan on doing 3.5-4.5" lift with 35 but run a shock for a traditional lift closer to 6.5".

 

the 6.5" shocks from rc are still to short. I have long as bilsteins in the front. need some for the back

 

For a long arm kit a more useful height would be about 4 1/2" of lift and they have other advantages also like all around ride quality when the Jeep is setup properly.


It boils down to what Amos told you and how much money you have to spend on a build. Do a quality build for what your budget allows and one that can be built upon later if desired/needed.

 

I will be doing measured bilstein 7100 in the end, but was trying to give a rough idea.

 

nice. more of an FYI. I thought they would be okay. but they're what limit me in the back. good thing they were free