How to identify Ford 8.8 for an XJ
11-06-2018, 09:54 PM
#46
::CF Administrator::
Depends on what you get, the simple swap from Ruff Stuff is only $125.
The ones that cost are the kits with trusses.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...obile&ie=UTF-8
The ones that cost are the kits with trusses.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ford...obile&ie=UTF-8
11-06-2018, 11:21 PM
#47
Seasoned Member
Let's compile the list and make it easier to follow.
You're building a weekend warrior, you're growing your knowledge, all good things. While doing that keep in mind an old adage around the off-road crowd..."learn to out-wheel your upgrades" it's a different way of saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" both have similar meanings. Basically you should know how to pick a line and function in a bone stock rig before you start throwing money at it for no reason.
You've got a decently stout drivetrain as it is, until you actually break something, leave it and upgrade the things that will help it survive. You've got a buddy who says he can weld...good, get him to truss and gusset your front axle and truss your rear axle.
You're running a tall lift on short arms, drop that down and trim some fenders or install flares, four inches or slightly less is a good point to be at when you're starting out.
An XJ is a different animal than other rigs out there. It has some limitations but it will get you places cheaper and easier than most folks if you build it right using time tested knowledge found in places like this and NAXJA, NAGCA, and so on.
You're building a weekend warrior, you're growing your knowledge, all good things. While doing that keep in mind an old adage around the off-road crowd..."learn to out-wheel your upgrades" it's a different way of saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" both have similar meanings. Basically you should know how to pick a line and function in a bone stock rig before you start throwing money at it for no reason.
You've got a decently stout drivetrain as it is, until you actually break something, leave it and upgrade the things that will help it survive. You've got a buddy who says he can weld...good, get him to truss and gusset your front axle and truss your rear axle.
You're running a tall lift on short arms, drop that down and trim some fenders or install flares, four inches or slightly less is a good point to be at when you're starting out.
An XJ is a different animal than other rigs out there. It has some limitations but it will get you places cheaper and easier than most folks if you build it right using time tested knowledge found in places like this and NAXJA, NAGCA, and so on.
11-07-2018, 06:16 AM
#48
::CF Administrator::
You bring up some good points, and this is part of the reason I'm trying to get the OP to put the brakes on, and learn more before pulling the trigger on mods he may not even need...and let's face it, we've all been there, you just got your first jeep and you want it to be the biggest and baddest in town, lol....
OP, these things are extremely capable even in stock form, and I know you already spent money on a big lift and tires, but I also agree with dialing all that back. Any lift over 3" requires a lot more to happen. Here's a link to a list that one of our moderators put together:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
So, start reading up and go out and actually wheel your rig, so you can make an informed decision about how to proceed.
OP, these things are extremely capable even in stock form, and I know you already spent money on a big lift and tires, but I also agree with dialing all that back. Any lift over 3" requires a lot more to happen. Here's a link to a list that one of our moderators put together:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
So, start reading up and go out and actually wheel your rig, so you can make an informed decision about how to proceed.
11-07-2018, 06:46 AM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: orrville ohio
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
hell im wondering who is putting in a 8.8 for $100 .....its gonna cost more than that in parts ( driveshaft adapter or adapter u joint , flex hose for brakes, brake lines , spring pearches, e brake cables , and at least some fluid and something to seal the cover after you pull it to verify its the right gears) o and don't forget the proportioning valve
Last edited by tinytrax78; 11-07-2018 at 06:58 AM.
11-07-2018, 06:53 AM
#50
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: orrville ohio
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You bring up some good points, and this is part of the reason I'm trying to get the OP to put the brakes on, and learn more before pulling the trigger on mods he may not even need...and let's face it, we've all been there, you just got your first jeep and you want it to be the biggest and baddest in town, lol....
OP, these things are extremely capable even in stock form, and I know you already spent money on a big lift and tires, but I also agree with dialing all that back. Any lift over 3" requires a lot more to happen. Here's a link to a list that one of our moderators put together:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
So, start reading up and go out and actually wheel your rig, so you can make an informed decision about how to proceed.
OP, these things are extremely capable even in stock form, and I know you already spent money on a big lift and tires, but I also agree with dialing all that back. Any lift over 3" requires a lot more to happen. Here's a link to a list that one of our moderators put together:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/
So, start reading up and go out and actually wheel your rig, so you can make an informed decision about how to proceed.
its kinda the old lightbar vs locker ....what should I buy first...... something that helps me look like I wheel or something that helps me wheel ?
11-07-2018, 08:09 AM
#53
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Im pretty much after something that helps me wheel, I am a newbie but but I really want to become experienced at this, im pretty sure I will do this for a long time, plus I have te time to do it as often as I want to, but of course i want to have a nice looking jeep too
11-07-2018, 08:24 AM
#54
Seasoned Member
Im pretty much after something that helps me wheel, I am a newbie but but I really want to become experienced at this, im pretty sure I will do this for a long time, plus I have te time to do it as often as I want to, but of course i want to have a nice looking jeep too
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
Last edited by Joshua White; 11-07-2018 at 08:32 AM.
11-07-2018, 09:12 AM
#55
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There is no need to do anything more to your rig besides supplement what you've already done at this point.
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
11-07-2018, 09:15 AM
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: orrville ohio
Posts: 822
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Received 3 Likes
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
very nice !! I would go with what Joshua said and upgrade what you have but its all up to you, at that size and lift you may wanna skip to tons next for your next upgrade
11-07-2018, 09:33 AM
#57
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There is no need to do anything more to your rig besides supplement what you've already done at this point.
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
11-07-2018, 11:36 AM
#59
Seasoned Member
"What gears should I run for 35s"
"Swap 27 spline Chrysler for 29 spline"
Go from there...search, learn, grow
