How to identify Ford 8.8 for an XJ
11-07-2018, 07:07 PM
#61
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Yeah i think i will regear to 4.88 for the moment as I might go bigger than 35s in the future. I saw in amazon there is a kit for both axls for about $700. I was also reading about long arms and I am thinking about putting some money on that as well and some recovery gear. Ive done a lot of reading today and it looks like things are as simple as I thought.
11-07-2018, 07:10 PM
#62
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks, I read about comparisons between the ford 8.8 and the chrysler 8.25 and according to most of people the 8.25 can be upgraded nearly as good as a dana 44. So i think i might stick to the 8.25 and putting some money on other stuff like 4.88 gears and winch or lockers. Lockers are really expensive though.
11-07-2018, 07:11 PM
#63
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If it was mine I would get the control arm drop brackets, 4.56 gears for the front and rear, lockers at the same time if you want them 29 spline shafts and carrier for the rear, new axle u joints with the full circle clip mod on the front axle, and an upgraded steering, ZJ tie rods at a minimum. I am currently building my jeep very similar to what you have.
11-07-2018, 07:13 PM
#64
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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If it was mine I would get the control arm drop brackets, 4.56 gears for the front and rear, lockers at the same time if you want them 29 spline shafts and carrier for the rear, new axle u joints with the full circle clip mod on the front axle, and an upgraded steering, ZJ tie rods at a minimum. I am currently building my jeep very similar to what you have.
11-07-2018, 07:38 PM
#65
Seasoned Member
Some of that stuff you can do over time, piece by piece so it's not hitting your wallet all at once.
Some things like the re-gear, lockers, carrier, shafts, and u-joints are just smarter to do all at the same time so that's $$$
In the end though you're talkin a couple grand all said and done maybe a little less if you can source good used parts or catch sales for some of it.
Some things like the re-gear, lockers, carrier, shafts, and u-joints are just smarter to do all at the same time so that's $$$
In the end though you're talkin a couple grand all said and done maybe a little less if you can source good used parts or catch sales for some of it.
11-07-2018, 07:51 PM
#66
CF Veteran
I got my front and rear Spartan lockers for $600, a good set of 4.56 gears and install kit for both axles, plus a 3.73 and up carrier for the front will run $500-600, then to upgrade your 8.25 to 29 spline shafts and carrier you can probably get that stuff out of the junkyard for $150, a control arm drop kit will run about $200, the ZJ tie rod upgrade will run about $100-150 if you get all new parts. Then there is the question whether you are going to install it all yourself or pay someone to do it. Black Friday sales are starting soon and I am waiting on that to get a lot of the stuff I need.
11-07-2018, 08:21 PM
#67
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I got my front and rear Spartan lockers for $600, a good set of 4.56 gears and install kit for both axles, plus a 3.73 and up carrier for the front will run $500-600, then to upgrade your 8.25 to 29 spline shafts and carrier you can probably get that stuff out of the junkyard for $150, a control arm drop kit will run about $200, the ZJ tie rod upgrade will run about $100-150 if you get all new parts. Then there is the question whether you are going to install it all yourself or pay someone to do it. Black Friday sales are starting soon and I am waiting on that to get a lot of the stuff I need.
About the 29 spline, how do I go about finding in the jy? Do I have to look for a specific axle or car or what?
11-07-2018, 08:29 PM
#68
CF Veteran
97-01 XJ Chrysler 8.25s will be 29 spline, 96 could be 29 or 27 spline the only way to tell is pull a shaft out and count the splines, 95 and older is 27 spline.
11-08-2018, 10:12 AM
#69
Seasoned Member
What he said ^
Just look for the rear Chry 8.25 axle out of a 97 - 01 XJ and you're good to go. Obviously double check when you pull them
Just look for the rear Chry 8.25 axle out of a 97 - 01 XJ and you're good to go. Obviously double check when you pull them
11-09-2018, 08:26 AM
#70
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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There is no need to do anything more to your rig besides supplement what you've already done at this point.
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
Could yo please advise what would be the best gears, long arms and steering for my jeep. I have the 6.5 inch RC lift kit and everything else is stock.
11-09-2018, 09:10 AM
#71
Seasoned Member
I have been doing a lot of research, I have decided just to upgrade what I already have. I am going to regear to 4.88 and putting long arms. Also I want to upgrade my steering.
Could yo please advise what would be the best gears, long arms and steering for my jeep. I have the 6.5 inch RC lift kit and everything else is stock.
Could yo please advise what would be the best gears, long arms and steering for my jeep. I have the 6.5 inch RC lift kit and everything else is stock.
Long arms are a touchy subject, I say go with the long arm upgrade from Rough Country since that's what you're running anyhow, as long as your lift is ALL SPRING and not some blocks/pucks. If you do have blocks on the rear and pucks up front take that junk out and still go the upgrade route.
Some folks will say RC is junk, some will say they're fine, me personally...I can't justify the cost of going with Claytons so I'm planning on the complete RC long arm kit for my build
11-14-2018, 07:41 PM
#72
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
There is no need to do anything more to your rig besides supplement what you've already done at this point.
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
You're running a tall lift without the proper long arms, if you don't have them already get some drop brackets to help keep your rig together and make your ride a hell of a lot better/safer (short arms on factory mounts WILL tear away with use and the geometry is all off making the handling characteristics garbage comparatively)
You have a decent rear axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts and possibly a truss (good parts means freshening it up with seals bearings brakes and what not, show it some love, research how to keep a Chrysler 8.25 alive on 35s)
You've got a great front axle, concentrate on keeping it alive with good parts, a truss, and some C-gussets (research how to keep a High Pinion Dana 30 alive on 35s)
If your axles haven't been re-geared yet...start saving to do it. It doesn't matter if you're ok with how it runs now your transmission and engine are suffering, they will continue to suffer until you gear it correctly. While you're in there you may want to add the larger shafts for the rear, and a locker (see that snowball price tag folks were mentioning)
Add a transmission cooler as soon as possible to help keep your already warm running tranny cool as you save to re-gear
I just made it very easy for you, follow this list and check things off as you can afford to do it and you'll be in good shape
I found another Ford 8.8 for $150, so it'd already be 31 spline and would only need to regear the front for about $300, which in my opinion is way cheaper.
Am I missing something here, or does it still make sense to upgrade my current axles?
11-14-2018, 07:42 PM
#73
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
So I have done a lot of research about upgrading and supplementing my Chrysler 8.25 and found out I would need to regear to 4.88 ($800plus shipping) for front and rear axles) and upgrade to 29 spline($150each+shipping), and in order to go 29 spline I'd need to buy a new carrier($450+shipping), I am not counting labor as a frind of mine will do the job. That is $1550 just to buy the parts and shipping would be arround $200 since I do not live in the US right now, so I'd be paying $1750 just to do that with no lockers.
I found another Ford 8.8 for $150, so it'd already be 31 spline and would only need to regear the front for about $300, which in my opinion is way cheaper.
Am I missing something here, or does it still make sense to upgrade my current axles???
I found another Ford 8.8 for $150, so it'd already be 31 spline and would only need to regear the front for about $300, which in my opinion is way cheaper.
Am I missing something here, or does it still make sense to upgrade my current axles???
11-14-2018, 07:44 PM
#74
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Year: 95
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
So I have done a lot of research about upgrading and supplementing my Chrysler 8.25 and found out I would need to regear to 4.88 ($800plus shipping) for front and rear axles) and upgrade to 29 spline($150each+shipping), and in order to go 29 spline I'd need to buy a new carrier($450+shipping), I am not counting labor as a frind of mine will do the job. That is $1550 just to buy the parts and shipping would be arround $200 since I do not live in the US right now, so I'd be paying $1750 just to do that with no lockers.
I found another Ford 8.8 for $150, so it'd already be 31 spline and would only need to regear the front for about $300, which in my opinion is way cheaper.
Am I missing something here, or does it still make sense to upgrade my current axles?
I found another Ford 8.8 for $150, so it'd already be 31 spline and would only need to regear the front for about $300, which in my opinion is way cheaper.
Am I missing something here, or does it still make sense to upgrade my current axles?
11-14-2018, 08:58 PM
#75
::CF Administrator::
Is the 8.8 4.88 geared? If not, guess what, you need to regear anyway to match the front.
I think you're confused about spline count and gear ratios.
The carrier holds the ring gear, but also accepts the axle shafts. So, the ring and pinion gears are paired, one goes in the diff housing (pinion) and one on the carrier (ring gear), and the axle shafts come into the carrier from the sides, generally, the more splines on the axle shafts, the stronger they are. A difference of a single spline is minimal.
So, your 8.8 axle needs to be geared to 4.88, as does the front. The 8.8 also needs tu o be shaved of perches and mounts, rewelded with new,, and u joints need to be addressed. Trust us, there's a lot more to it than just getting a 8.8 and calling it good.
I think you're confused about spline count and gear ratios.
The carrier holds the ring gear, but also accepts the axle shafts. So, the ring and pinion gears are paired, one goes in the diff housing (pinion) and one on the carrier (ring gear), and the axle shafts come into the carrier from the sides, generally, the more splines on the axle shafts, the stronger they are. A difference of a single spline is minimal.
So, your 8.8 axle needs to be geared to 4.88, as does the front. The 8.8 also needs tu o be shaved of perches and mounts, rewelded with new,, and u joints need to be addressed. Trust us, there's a lot more to it than just getting a 8.8 and calling it good.