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Home Brew Long Arm build

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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 09:51 PM
  #1  
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From: WoodinVille
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Home Brew Long Arm build

Ok so ive found a little info on building my long Arm kit. But as Im looking under the xj, i start thinking of a few things that was not covered in the info ive found thus far.

First: The builds ive seen build their own t-case cross member.
Could i use the stock t-case cross member?
Second: while doing a long arm kit. Do i need longer drive lines?
Third: i picked up some pipe at Home Depot. But cant find any bushing material. Could i use the rubber from a pipe clamp?....
Just joking on the third.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:26 PM
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From: Oceanside So Cal
Year: 88
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 renix
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Glad you were joking on the "pipe"

As for using the stock crossmember..no. Its not that the member is that weak..its more of the mounting to the frame only designed for a "vertical" load of the driveline..not the lateral stress of running the arms off of.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:45 PM
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From: WoodinVille
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I had been reading a post earlier about a guy using black pipe to make an adjustable track bar.
The post was scary because the guy was serious.

As for the cross member. I noticed its weak sauce as for support. I was thinking that i could mod the mounting so it attaches to three sides of the unibody.
Just an idea. Im fully prepared for building a new cross member. And thinking i should anyway. But at the same time i also like to entertain the idea of making it work with the stock CM.
Here is a few pics of the one ive found. When done Im wanting mine to look similar.
Attached Thumbnails Home Brew Long Arm build-r8hwkj.jpg.jpg   Home Brew Long Arm build-img_9492.jpg  
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 10:46 PM
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Opps as an added bonus a pic of my daughter. Darn on screen keyboard is to small for my fingers.
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Old Jul 12, 2012 | 11:16 PM
  #5  
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From: Oceanside So Cal
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good looking kid.

as for time..i think trying to clean and mod a stock cm would be more time than it would to just build what you want..plus you could tuck it under a bit better so you can stay away from building a "rock anchor".

I built my own..there are pics in my build thread
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Old Jul 13, 2012 | 12:06 AM
  #6  
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From: Long Island N.Y.
Year: 1999
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http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/...ead.php?t=8616
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 11:14 AM
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Year: 1989 Comanche
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i used the stock crossmember and made a mini subframe for the control arm mounts to go. with that being said, i really wish i would have also made a new crossmember cause it is all sorts of dented and doesnt offer any protection.

here is mine.
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Old Jul 14, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #8  
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Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
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First you need to figure out the setup you want to run before thinking of a cross member. Are you planning on running a 3-link, 4-link, 3-link radius or 4-link radius?

I built a new cross member when I did mine but I also raised everything up above the frame rails. I would stay far away from the stock cross member for a building point as you would be essentially building another cross member around it just to make it be able to support the stresses that the suspension puts on it, thus losing tons of ground clearance and spending much unneeded time.

I have tons of pictures of my 3-link in my build thread, linked in my sig (one of these days I'll update it but it has the suspension build in there). My advice for ideas is to surf Pirate4x4 as everyone in the Cherokee section builds their own control arms.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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From: WoodinVille
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Alright so far i know how Im building it. Now im having a hard time with finding the right size heim joint. Any ideas?
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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Curious about heim joint size myself??
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 08:24 PM
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3 link, 4 link, or radius arm?
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 09:06 PM
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I am looking to build my own setup like you are and from what I have READ, no what I know, the general consensus is you run 1.25" ends on lowers and 7/8" on the uppers or 3/4" if you wanna be called reckless but this is only what I have read and I will be looking forward to the input and knowledge of those who have built their own
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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From: WoodinVille
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
3 link, 4 link, or radius arm?
Im going with a 4 link. Id like to do away with the tb but not sure how thats possible.
As for the heim joint. I found a 1.25" on tuff stuff. $35 each i believe. Hold 72,000lbs.

The setup Im thinking is heim joins on the lca mounting to the cross member and bushings on axle. Ill have my uca coming off my lca with bushings both ends.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CowboyXJ
Im going with a 4 link. Id like to do away with the tb but not sure how thats possible.
As for the heim joint. I found a 1.25" on tuff stuff. $35 each i believe. Hold 72,000lbs.

The setup Im thinking is heim joins on the lca mounting to the cross member and bushings on axle. Ill have my uca coming off my lca with bushings both ends.
I don't think you're getting rid of the tracbar without doing a fully triangulated setup.....which is hard to do in the front. And it's ruffstuff, not tuffstuff. You do know that there's more to this than just guessing, right? I mean, if you're going to be anywhere near a public road, you shouldn't even even attempt suspension mods because your questions suggest that you're not ready.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:19 PM
  #15  
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Im more then sure Im ready. Don't get me wrong, ive never built a long arm kit so the questions are simply getting my bearings (mind in the right direction).
Im unsure if to use JJ or HJ. Im simply asking so as when i draw up my plans Im not halfway in it and have to change the setup, and keeping the cost down.
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