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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:22 PM
  #16  
93XJLI's Avatar
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From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
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Originally Posted by DeftwillP
I don't think you're getting rid of the tracbar without doing a fully triangulated setup.....which is hard to do in the front. And it's ruffstuff, not tuffstuff. You do know that there's more to this than just guessing, right? I mean, if you're going to be anywhere near a public road, you shouldn't even even attempt suspension mods because your questions suggest that you're not ready.
x2 on that, but i think OP knows what he's doing more than most. ya cant get a double triangulated 4 link under the front of a XJ without like 8"+ of lift.
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 10:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by CowboyXJ

Im going with a 4 link. Id like to do away with the tb but not sure how thats possible.
As for the heim joint. I found a 1.25" on tuff stuff. $35 each i believe. Hold 72,000lbs.

The setup Im thinking is heim joins on the lca mounting to the cross member and bushings on axle. Ill have my uca coming off my lca with bushings both ends.
Sounds like you are going to do radius arms in which case you will have to retain your track bar
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Old Jul 16, 2012 | 11:28 PM
  #18  
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From: Wrightstown, NJ
Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
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There is no need to remove the track bar from the front, it doesn't limit travel at all and really doesn't hinder anything. If you are doing a 4-link, you need bushings at one end to deflect some of the bind that 4-links naturally have (same goes with radius arms).

The 72000lb is not the hold strength, it is the shear stress. Those things are completely different. Hold strength means it can handle that force with a safety factor, shear stress means it will shear at that point (ie snap).

I do advise that you look into all this a lot more and ask questions more than just guess at what to use. Search the builds on Pirate before really jumping head first into a long arm system. If you cheap out on this setup, you are putting yourself, your passengers and everyone around the Jeep in harms way.

To give you something to run off of spec wise. I'm running a 3 link with the 2 5/8" Ballistic Fab joints with the 5/8" bolt option on every end. All of the arms are made out of 2" OD x 0.25" wall DOM. The panhard bar is 1.5" OD x 0.188" wall DOM with QA1 heims at both ends with 3/4" bolts on each end. I would have made the panhard bar thicker but it just wasn't necessary since my lowers are slightly triangulated.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:28 AM
  #19  
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From: Hell, CA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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Maybe pickup the TnT customs crossmember/bellpypan, and build from there?
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #20  
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If you are using the stock dana 30 uca bushings you can get away with heims everywhere else. Id use 1 inch minimum for the lowers. Preferably 1.25. Ruffstuff carries loaded heims complete with misalignment spacers, jam nuts, and tube adapters, and are great quality. For uppers id do 3/4 inch.

This is for a 4 link. 3 link id reccomend do away with the stock uca bushing and run 7/8 heims at each end of the uca.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 09:36 AM
  #21  
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http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ducts_id=77905
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #22  
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From: WoodinVille
Year: 1994
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http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...ory_Code=114RE
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #23  
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Not rebuild-able.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #24  
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We could go on for days about the advantages and disadvantages of heim joints and rebuildable cartridge joints.

I have run both, and I prefer heims. They arent rebuildable, but they tend to last much longer than the wear items in a cartridge joint. Arguably, they are stronger as well, but that isnt an issue for most as both will be plenty strong for most people.

Another thing to consider is a solid heim joint tends to transmit road noise into the jeep more than a cartridge joint. Its a comprimise.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 11:47 AM
  #25  
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Im not to worried about road noise. The jeep is my dd but i drive it a total of 16mins aday.
And for the ones that keep saying Im not ready to build or that ill hurt someone.
Keep in mind the Cf title Junior member only goes to the amount of posts. Im not some 16yo that just got a hold of his daddys welder and wants to play.
Im 30, been welding for years and know a thing or to about 4x4ing. Its now that Im getting into the fine arts of it.
Its one thing to add a lift and big tires.
Take my word... I know what Im doing. And as a safety ill post pics of the work before adding it to the xj for your thoughts and approval.
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #26  
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From: Loveland CO
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6
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Originally Posted by CowboyXJ
Im not to worried about road noise. The jeep is my dd but i drive it a total of 16mins aday.
And for the ones that keep saying Im not ready to build or that ill hurt someone.
Keep in mind the Cf title Junior member only goes to the amount of posts. Im not some 16yo that just got a hold of his daddys welder and wants to play.
Im 30, been welding for years and know a thing or to about 4x4ing. Its now that Im getting into the fine arts of it.
Its one thing to add a lift and big tires.
Take my word... I know what Im doing. And as a safety ill post pics of the work before adding it to the xj for your thoughts and approval.
Some of us young ones can weld pretty damn good and done sone great strong projects. , just saying
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #27  
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From: WoodinVille
Year: 1994
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What about this at all ends of both UCA and LCA?

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...oint-p-25.html
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #28  
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Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
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If you go 3-link then those would work but I highly suggest putting an adjustable joint on atleast one end of each of the control arms so you can adjust your caster after you build them. If you go 4-link then I'd just put solids on one side of each arm and bushings on the other (sorry, lots of talk on different styles and forget which setup you chose to go with).
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Old Jul 17, 2012 | 04:58 PM
  #29  
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From: WoodinVille
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Originally Posted by Garvin
If you go 3-link then those would work but I highly suggest putting an adjustable joint on atleast one end of each of the control arms so you can adjust your caster after you build them. If you go 4-link then I'd just put solids on one side of each arm and bushings on the other (sorry, lots of talk on different styles and forget which setup you chose to go with).
Im still deciding which to go with. Thank you for your input.
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Old Jul 18, 2012 | 04:23 PM
  #30  
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Ok. Radius it is. With adj JJs on one end of the lca. Running my uca off my lca with an adj bushing on one end of the uca and solid bushings on the axle mounts for both lca and uca.
Did the pricing.
Poly performance $230 vs Ballistic fabrication $388.

Ive read somewhere that poly gives discounts to cf members. Is that true?
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