HO camn in Renix block
03-11-2013, 02:15 PM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
HO camn in Renix block
Rebuilding my 87 4.0 and Im looking into punning in a stock HO cam. Did a port and pollish job..
Will this work and what do I need to make it work..?
Trick
Will this work and what do I need to make it work..?
Trick
03-11-2013, 02:46 PM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No will be running the RENIX. Did a good portting and polish on it tho..
Was thinking that the HO cam will be better for me insted of a say CRANE or Comp cam.
Was thinking that the HO cam will be better for me insted of a say CRANE or Comp cam.
03-11-2013, 02:50 PM
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Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
It would probably play nicer with the computer I am guessing than an aftermarket. You will want to make sure your valve spacing is set correctly. It wreaks havoc on how it runs and the computer freaks out. I chased that ghost on my stroker for a while. I couldn't find much info on it and service manuals don't reference it at all. I finally tracked down that as the culprit.
03-11-2013, 04:28 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What year HO cam as they are the same as Renix in some years.
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03-11-2013, 06:07 PM
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
03-11-2013, 06:19 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Stock cam.
What are you trying to accomplish?
What are you trying to accomplish?
03-11-2013, 10:35 PM
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Bored throttle body from www.strokedjeep.com.
PC307 high altitude Crank Position Sensor from RockAuto
Have a new headpipe made to eliminate the factory "crush" and routed away from the front driveshaft.
Index your distributor.
PC307 high altitude Crank Position Sensor from RockAuto
Have a new headpipe made to eliminate the factory "crush" and routed away from the front driveshaft.
Index your distributor.
03-11-2013, 10:44 PM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Whats it take to bore the TB. Ive got another one to work with and a friend at a machine shop... Was also thinking a heavy er injector as well. I will be running a TB spacer and header ,non oe. distributer is trimmed already. Was thinking bout a hotter coil and possible distributer.. Say an Acell or MSD or somthing...
03-11-2013, 10:47 PM
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Spacer is a waste, as is boring the throttle body without putting a bigger butterfly in it. Aftermarket ignitions are a waste of time and money and fail frequently.
No bigger injectors are gonna help. Just get teh later model 4 hole ones because they atomize teh fuel better and don't leak externally like your stock ones.
No bigger injectors are gonna help. Just get teh later model 4 hole ones because they atomize teh fuel better and don't leak externally like your stock ones.
03-12-2013, 08:03 AM
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Year: 2000 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.8L Stroker
I run a jeepers and creepers aftermarket throttle body on my 4.8L. It gives great throttle response and wasn't all that expensive.
When you change your cam depending on the lift you go with or you start millimg your head you essentially change the distancw from the cam to the rocker arm. You can go with custom length pushrods or adjust the spacing of your valves so that they will seat correctly. When the space between the rocker and the cam lobe is decreased (taller cam, milled head) you will in turn be leaving your valves open longer because it will be pushed down and not allowed to seat correctly. The easiest way is to place spacers on top of the rocker pedestals and beneath the rocker pivots to properly set that distance again. When you get to that point let me know. I can walk you through it. It's way easier to do while its still on the stand.
When you change your cam depending on the lift you go with or you start millimg your head you essentially change the distancw from the cam to the rocker arm. You can go with custom length pushrods or adjust the spacing of your valves so that they will seat correctly. When the space between the rocker and the cam lobe is decreased (taller cam, milled head) you will in turn be leaving your valves open longer because it will be pushed down and not allowed to seat correctly. The easiest way is to place spacers on top of the rocker pedestals and beneath the rocker pivots to properly set that distance again. When you get to that point let me know. I can walk you through it. It's way easier to do while its still on the stand.