Rebuilding my 87 4.0 and Im looking into punning in a stock HO cam. Did a port and pollish job..
Will this work and what do I need to make it work..?

Trick

In don't see why not. Are you planning on running an HO head?

No will be running the RENIX. Did a good portting and polish on it tho..
Was thinking that the HO cam will be better for me insted of a say CRANE or Comp cam.

It would probably play nicer with the computer I am guessing than an aftermarket. You will want to make sure your valve spacing is set correctly. It wreaks havoc on how it runs and the computer freaks out. I chased that ghost on my stroker for a while. I couldn't find much info on it and service manuals don't reference it at all. I finally tracked down that as the culprit.

Valve spaceing...?

What year HO cam as they are the same as Renix in some years.

Well whichever is the Dual pattern one..not sure, thot there was just an HO and RENix

More than one HO cam. And the later ones use different timing gears. Not worth all the hassle IMHO.

What would you recomend...?
Keep it stock? and mill the head down to get more CR....?

Stock cam.

What are you trying to accomplish?

Really just good low end and fast thottel response.

Bored throttle body from www.strokedjeep.com.

PC307 high altitude Crank Position Sensor from RockAuto

Have a new headpipe made to eliminate the factory "crush" and routed away from the front driveshaft.

Index your distributor.

Whats it take to bore the TB. Ive got another one to work with and a friend at a machine shop... Was also thinking a heavy er injector as well. I will be running a TB spacer and header ,non oe. distributer is trimmed already. Was thinking bout a hotter coil and possible distributer.. Say an Acell or MSD or somthing...

Spacer is a waste, as is boring the throttle body without putting a bigger butterfly in it. Aftermarket ignitions are a waste of time and money and fail frequently.

No bigger injectors are gonna help. Just get teh later model 4 hole ones because they atomize teh fuel better and don't leak externally like your stock ones.

I run a jeepers and creepers aftermarket throttle body on my 4.8L. It gives great throttle response and wasn't all that expensive.

When you change your cam depending on the lift you go with or you start millimg your head you essentially change the distancw from the cam to the rocker arm. You can go with custom length pushrods or adjust the spacing of your valves so that they will seat correctly. When the space between the rocker and the cam lobe is decreased (taller cam, milled head) you will in turn be leaving your valves open longer because it will be pushed down and not allowed to seat correctly. The easiest way is to place spacers on top of the rocker pedestals and beneath the rocker pivots to properly set that distance again. When you get to that point let me know. I can walk you through it. It's way easier to do while its still on the stand.