Hey all - 95 XJ that got a 6.5" lift and 35s and nothing else until I bought it, so I'm trying to correct everything.

Just swapped out the front for a different D30 with the right gearing, and the steering is pretty scary now even at lower speeds, so once it gets decent tires, that's next on the list. Here's the steering now:



Since it's already got an adjustable track bar, I was thinking of getting the CavFab crossover steering:

https://www.cavfab.com/CavFab-Jeep-C...JMJ_p_105.html

Will that put me on the paper for good steering? I know people brace the steering box too - frame stiffeners are on my list so maybe do that at the same time?

Thanks all!

 

You should be able to straighten that out. I have run 6.5" with no problem. First thing is to make sure all the pivot points are tight. Have someone saw the steering wheel back and forth and fix any pivot points that have movement. The other thing is that the steering box must be tight. There is an adjustment on the top for that. Your castor angle looks OK, but hard to tell from this angle. Many people that have steering they don't like is due to a negative castor angle. Have you had an alignment done?

As far as using heim joints goes, I don't like any of them because they are ultimately not as strong as tie rod ends and they stretch and wear out and then have to be replaced periodically

 

Thanks, 4.3 - I didn't have any idea that I might be able to make what I have work. I'll definitely give that a shot - when you say make sure that pivot points are tight, do you mean making sure there isn't any play in the joints?

I have been watching youtubes of redneck alightments which are only for setting toe, but since the steering was a lot better before I put this other D30 on, I'd be surprised if it didn't need some attention. If you don't mind describing the best place to get a castor pic, I'll post that too - once I get new tires I'll have a pro alignment done, but wouldn't hurt to get things running half decent until then, right?

Also had no idea the steering box has adjustment - will do some research on that!

 

Yes, no play. Redneck is OK to get you to the alignment shop, but a good alignment does wonders. 6.5" is about the limit for tie rod end movement. Beyond that, you need to do something else

 

I disagree the so called pro alignment will be no better than the well executed redkneck method .

Toe and castor are the only 2 adjustments that can be made wether a tape measure is used or some kinda high dollar death curing 12 point 3 phase alignment rack.

Toe with a tape measure will take alittle time easier with two people make slight adjustments till you have just a slight toe in /\ 1/8"ish on factory type steering.
Then set steering will straight also easier with some sitting in drivers seat telling when wheel is straight.
Then drive confirm wheel is straight likely will need fine tuned so will rig if the alignment rack.

Castor then can be set without measuring anything. If vehicle wheel doesnt not return to center well exiting turns it it needs more positive.
I jsck up axle put on jack stands. Length Lowers so when viewed from the side my left side towards the bumper my right side towards rear bumper ball joint to ball joint looks like this / that's positive this is zero | this is negative |

Zero to the negative side wont want to return wheel to center exiting turns and will wonder needing driver imput to maintain a straight line.
Positive castor will return to center wonder much less and require much less driver imput to hold straight line.

Castor can be made in small adjustments take a test drive then readjust if needed.
Keeping in mind more positive castor points the pinion further away from the transfercase to much positive holds a straight line very well but also makes steering feel heavy.

If the alignment rack youl like get a decent return to center feel and rig will probably drive straight (maybe) steering wheel may be centered on the rack but probably isnt centered while actually driving in a straight line.
this if if the tech on alignment rack actually knows what they're doing.

If the tech doesnt know or care then results will most likely be poor.

Theres a few companies that sell a bar tool to set toe this is very convenient since its inexpensive and cost about the same as an alignment.
with this tool your efforts can be then put toward castor and how it actually drives.

Castor is not a tire wearing angle so you dont need to worry about wearing out rubber. Toe is a tire wearing angle to much toe /\ in will feather the outside edges heavily.
the toe in is because when suspension cycles the tie rod actually gets slightly longer pushing the toe out hopefully not passed zero | | . A fixed straight tie rod knuckle to knuckle doesn't not change through out suspension movement and can be set at zero toe. Never toe out \/ in either set up.

As for steering set up at 6.5" of lift good luck.
I would do a over the knuckle steering a dropped 1.5" pitman arm and fabbed over the axle track bar to mach drag link angle. I wouldn't put any money into the factory style steering or track bar if I could help it.

Set castor so your current steering goes straight down the road safe for over the knuckle steering and track bar to mach.

I've typed alot it may sound complicated but its not it's super easy actually even your current steering though I consider in my opion far to steep can be set up with toe set correctly and hopefully some good positive castor to steer well and drive straight down the rd.

Gooduck research ask questions make trial and error adjustments and you'll be rewarded with a rig that drives better than most even those that are fresh off the pro alignment racks.

 

Thanks for the replies, all - I really appreciate it.

So one vote for keeping the stock steering and one for new!

I will definitely try the redneck alignment - heck, if it turns out great, why bother with a pro one? Evan, I really appreciate the detailed instructions - once I get decent tires on this thing, I'm going to give it a shot. Awesome!