Hey Guys,
I could really use your help. My XJ which is my DD unexpectedly needs new tires ASAP and a bunch of other things

I just ordered new:
-Zone Off-Road 3" Coil springs
-Zone 3" full leaf springs
-Rubicon Adj. Track Bar
-Blistein 5100 shocks
-Steering Stabilizer

So for the past few days, I have been tirelessly doing my research on tires and lift options, etc, as I plan on doing all this work myself. I AM BURNT OUT and need your guidance. I have never done anything like this before and everything I know is from researching on the forum.

The most important thing is that I get this lifted and the tires mounted ASAP with what so it is street driveable. Ideally, I'd like to run either a 32 or 33''- 10.50/15 tires with 3.75 backspace and plan on trimming the fenders. Although I know a 33/10.50 tire is not ideal with a 3" lift I will be adding to the set-up within the near future to make it a better ride. But I am in a time crunch to get new tires and I don't want to buy new 31's when I was already planning on going to 33's. It's a 2001 xj with the Dana 35's (Turdy five's) but plan on regearing in about a year. Like I said, I won't be going and off-road stuff anytime soon with this rig as it's a "work-in-process". I just need this thing to commute to work with the 33s. I know if I got another set of 31's I will be really unsatisfied bc I have been planning on going to 33s for a while. By summer it will hopefully be off-road ready. I do not want to go above 3.5- 4'' of lift.

I know there are thousands of similar threads (which I read) but my circumstances are a bit different as I have to do this ASAP
'
Question:
Is this everything I need to get started and get this lifted and on the road with 33's?
Would adding bump stops help to get + .5"? how bad would it affect my up travel?
What are some good 32/10.5/15 AT tires that look aggressive? (pics)
Many people mentioned expecting to replace nuts and bolts while installing the lift. What extra hardware should I exactly buy to prepare for this?

Thanks,
-Fletch

 

ASAP-As Soon As Possible. This is a daily driver and you need new tires desperately it sounds like. And unexpectedly at that.

I can't follow your logic here. If this is your daily driver and you need tires that badly, why don't you buy a set of tires now and save the lift kit stuff for a time when you aren't up against an ASAP situation?

I don't mean any disrespect; I just am having a hard time following what you are trying to accomplish? Do you want the lift kit because you want big tires and only want to purchase one set of tires? I can kinda see that, but to be under the gun timing wise, though easy, it is time consuming to do all that suspension work. Especially since you aren't planning on any hardcore off-roading "anytime soon".

Plus you are already burned out just doing the research.

I can't help you with the tire selection, but I would suggest you take a step back, assess what you really need to get your XJ on the road and start there. If you don't want to sink a lot of money into smaller tires because you are going to go big soon, pick up a set of used tires to get you by while you compile all the parts you need and carve out a time to do the work.

 

My Zone 3'' leaves give me around 4-5 inches of lift still after a year. I cant speak for the coils though. If I were you I would get some 31s and not need to worry about the dana 35 and a regear. Its a huge waste of money to re gear a 35

 

No offense taken bud but that's not how I work. I'm not trying to spend any more money than I have to or buy any smaller tires of any kind. I'm just trying to move the project forward. My circumstances and preference of how I do things are my business. Thanks for the advice but that's not what I was asking...

Yes, I'd like to get my hands on a Dana 44 for a direct simple swap, My buddy has several Comanche's some of which aren't running now that I remember. But that's probably going to be in Fall @ the soonest. I just have to get this puppy road worthy within the next week. How are you liking the leafs so far? How man inches?

 

The leaves sucked at first. I needed to buy no lift shackle relocation brackets and new shocks to make then bearable. But they are decent now.
Not 100% sure on the lift they give me but i would say around 4inches. When I remove them to put axle shims for my SYE I will probably remove a leaf.
If you want to get road worthy quick and already have that lift and plan to install it I still say go with 31s. 31s still do super good offroad and then you can pile your parts together to go bigger in futre

 

Rushing your lift and tires on a DD is a recipe for disaster and disappointment.

Be ready for a horrible ride.

 

If you search you can find a list of every bolt you might need when doing a lift. Pretty much guarantee some of the back upper shock bolts will break. I was lucky when I recently did mine and only broke two of those during the entire project.

From my recent lift experience, it did not get done as near as soon as I wanted it to. Once you lift, tired ball joints, wheel bearings, control arm bushings, u-joints, etc. will really start to show their face. Check everything out before you start if you have not already.

FWIW, I did a 4" Iron Rock Offroad lift with new leaf packs, coils, shocks, track bar, upper/lower control arms and 1 ton steering. I am running 31s, fenders not trimmed. 1987 Cherokee that had been sitting for a few years.

 

Please be aware that a lot of people here sometimes find it hard to just answer a question, consumed as they are in trying to share the benefit of their experience to save others $$'s/time/effort/grief or any combination of 2 or more. It's just the way this forum is, what defines it (although not alone in that).

All I would say is that I wouldn't like to do all you have planned against the clock to meet such a short deadline. Been there, done that, didn't like it, can't recommend it. Good luck!

 

So you won't help me bc I have to get this done within a time frame that you don't agree with so you'd rather see me fail? Thanks man!!! I don't really have much of a choice and really could really use some help here. I'm just trying to do the best I can with what I have.
Listen fellas, If you don't have good advice on my lift project please keep it to yourself and don't bother giving me a hard time and posting on this thread. I don't need anyone's criticism or drama. That's not what I'm here for. THANK YOU!

IF SOMEONE COULD HELP ME I'D REALLY APPRECIATE IT. Just trying to see if I have all the replacement components I need and if there is anything else I should get to
Since I bought the coils, leafs, and u-bolts separately and not in a kit do I need to buy new bushings for the leafs and shackles?

https://zoneoffroad.com/products/lea...40198599737432

Are there any Nuts/bolts for the new front coils and shocks I should buy in the event of them breaking? I already bought new bolts and nuts (6x M14x200) to replace the hardware on the leafs and shackles for the rear.

I am pretty sure I will have to replace the perch spring shackles based on all the rust of the other components. How common is it to have to replace them bc of rust? would these work?

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/produc...f-spring-perch

https://www.rustysoffroad.com/produc...f-spring-perch

Didn't buy the shock retainers bc apparently, you don't really need them.

Going to leave the control arms stock for now.

 

Maybe this thread would help. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/al...go-here-10579/

 

NKOC's Lift Reference Chart - Jeep Cherokee Forum
Yes that bushing kit is needed if you bought the Zone leafs for like 150$ each
If you are going to cut off the old spring perches and weld on new ones, might as well put a new axle under there, especially since you have the 35.
The stuff you ordered in the original post is good for 3" except maybe some lower control arms.
As for bolts breaking, you should only be worried about the rear leaf springs, they are a pain to get out and find replacement, soak with oil as much as you can and use heat when you unscrew the. All the other bolts that break can just be found at the hardware store.
I would really, really strognly recommend 31s still, even if just for the time being, and since your trying to do this quickly.
BUT, if you insiist on 33s you need to cut and fold rear and get longer bumpstops,

Zone 3" leaves, 31s

 

to avoid a rough ride, shackle relocators may be required. you want the shackle at 45 degrees. if it ends up much off from 45, then the ride will be harsh, and shackle relocators maybe required to correct. adjustable shackles may also be needed. I got a 5.5 lift and required both. I run 33 x 12.5 tires. 4.11 gears, which is not ideal, but livable.

for tires, I dont know what is the best for you, check locally for best price near you.

For me and my jeeps prior owner it was a long process of upgrades, mistakes, improvements, reworks. lot of learning.
big tires for trail may require heavy duty steering components. a steering box brace and steel plate mount so you dont rip the gearbox off the frame rail. Disc rear brakes will help stop better, if you put on big heavy tires in my opinion the brakes need upgrade too.
with a lift, you will need different shocks so as to not bottom out, or over extend them. longer brake hoses are oft needed with a lift too.

Good Luck, let us know how it goes.

 

My guy, slow down. You're setting yourself up for failure.

It might be. Which Rubicon Express track bar did you buy? If its then you'll need a 5/8" drill to modify your frame-side track bar bracket to accept the heim joint. Read the reviews. Other style bars may require a new bracket.

I don't understand the question. Get +0.5" of what, lift? No, they wouldn't, because bump stops have no affect on lift. How could they? Are you sure you're referring to the correct component? Set up properly, bump stops won't affect your up travel at all because their purpose is to stop up-travel before something else does (i.e. a shock bottoming out). Seeing as you won't be going off road with this setup you likely won't need them.

Seriously? Just buy some decent tires already on wheels on FB Marketplace. Check the date code on the tires to make sure they're no more than 5-10 years old (10 years absolute max).

Depending on your location/amount of rust, be prepared to break every bolt you remove. I don't have a list of all sizes, don't know where you'd find one. Be prepared for trips to the hardware store.


Not sure. What did Zone say about the bushings when you called them? You did call the manufacture you're buying parts from to ask them before frantically asking on the internet, right? Shackles are typically replaced as a whole rather than the bushings. Probably won't need them, but you won't know till you get in there and see their condition.

Yes, buy new bolts for the lower front shock mounts and upper rear shock mounts. Expect to break the captive nuts on the upper rear shock mounts. Look through some of these threads to see how people resolved that issue.

Not sure if that's a typo or if you're misunderstanding components. Those leaf spring perches you linked from Rustys get welded onto your axle tube. Its not common to need to replace them because of rust. Yes, those would work in the event that you need them.





What are you going to do if you break the captive nuts inside the unibody rail removing the leaf springs? Also, the leaf spring bolts will very likely be seized to the bushing sleeves. Plan on cutting the leaf spring bolts.

You may develop driveline vibrations which can require a transfer case drop. What will you do if you break the transmission crossmember bolts when installing the transfer case drop?

You should be soaking every bolt you need to remove with penetrating oil multiple times a day every day for a week or more before starting this. You will likely need a sawzall, and grinder, potentially an oxy/acetylene torch, and a large breaker bar/strong impact gun.

If you really have never done suspension work on a rusty vehicle before, I urge you to not take this job lightly. When I was like 18 years old or so I installed a lift in my Jeep with very little experience and it took me hours to remove ONE leaf spring.

 

wow! That’s a beautiful Jeep man! Can you share the specs on the lift, wheels, and tires?

 

NICE JEEP and Thank you so much for your advice. It’s exactly the stuff that I was looking for. I plan on adding lower control arms in a month or two but for now, I have to be put on hold.

I only wanted to buy the purchase and case I found the existing ones to be rusted out.

I will take your advice and will be going to go with a 32” or 265 tire if it will fit better without much fitting/rubbing.

265= 32” tires is that right? Do you think I could fit 32x11.50 or 31x11.50? Not sure if the extra width will cause any rubbing but I'd love 11.50 vs 10.50 width if they will work.

Trying to figure out what # backspacing to go with but i', thinking 3.75" or 4" to have te tired extend out a bit from the fenders.


Here are the additional components bought last night to add to the rear leaves, front coils, and Bistien 5100 shocks:

new bolts for rear leaf springs and shackles:





Leaf spring bushings

Front bump stops

Isolators



Sway bar bushings


Sway bar link bushings


in regards to the front and rear shock bolts. Are those easy to get from any hardware store? I found these and was going to buy 2 pair for front and back:


Shock bolts x2 pair (for front and rear)

Do I need any type of adapters or anything else to go with the Blistein 5100 shocks and coils? I found these