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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:32 PM
  #1  
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From: Orlando, FL
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Default Hack & Tap question

So I am going to move up to a 6.5 lift later this year. I have read that I will need to run a SYE or hack & tap so that I don't risk pulling my driveshaft out of the yoke.

So my jeep is an 1989, and I think it has a 241 transfer case, from reading it seem that the sye options for this xfer case is expensive.

I did read if I have a new process 231 xfer case, I can hack the shaft and tap it and run a front driveshaft in the rear.

So here is my question, if I can get one of those xfer cases cheap from junkyard, can I just hack the end of the input shaft, tap it and then run a front driveshaft? Am I missing something? It seems too easy.....

I'm questioning cause it this seems like a cheap easy solution yet all the sye options are rather expensive...
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 12:35 PM
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From: Milwaukee, WI
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You'll need a yoke to attach the front DS to, but yeah, thats basically it.

You may be able to use the HnT on your 241, I know you can on a 242.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #3  
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From: Orlando, FL
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Looking at my xfer case I'm not sure, it has this.....

Here is a pic of the xfer case I have, its not mine, a pic I found on google.

The back shaft has this housing around it that I think prevents me from just hack&tapping. I think this xfer case needs a, I think its called a seal flange?
Attached Thumbnails Hack & Tap question-xfercase.jpg  
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 01:47 PM
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You take that off to do a HnT.

Try doing some research on a HnT. Iron Rock Offroad would be a good company to start with. They may even have instructions that you can view on their site.
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Old Apr 5, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #5  
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From: Birch Run MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: .030 over 4.0
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Iron rock also sells a seal kit. It may be for your tcase. I did their HNT kit on my 231 and ended up breaking the tap off in my out put shaft

Just make sure you have a blind hole tap and drill far enough in first...
I ended up getting another shaft, doing the drilling and tapping to it on the bench then installing it in to my tcase. What a PITA that was.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #6  
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Ok, reading up a little more, as said, I can take that cone shaped housing off, and hack and tap, but then there is a bearing exposed, is this where the seal flange comes into play?

Is there another alternative I can buy or make myself?
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike1114
Ok, reading up a little more, as said, I can take that cone shaped housing off, and hack and tap, but then there is a bearing exposed, is this where the seal flange comes into play?

Is there another alternative I can buy or make myself?
Seal flag yes other option is sye instead of hnt
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 06:00 PM
  #8  
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From: Houston, Tx
Year: 1999
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what about just tapping....no hacking? i just picked up a similar t-case (busted my 242 that had the external slip yoke). I'm thinking to re-use the yoke from my h&t plus some washers as spacers (to get the yoke far enough from the seal & housing to not cause damage) and just drilling & tapping the shaft to bolt the yoke on. i mean in theory this sounds alright am i right?
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #9  
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From: Orlando, FL
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by Chex_Mex
what about just tapping....no hacking? i just picked up a similar t-case (busted my 242 that had the external slip yoke). I'm thinking to re-use the yoke from my h&t plus some washers as spacers (to get the yoke far enough from the seal & housing to not cause damage) and just drilling & tapping the shaft to bolt the yoke on. i mean in theory this sounds alright am i right?

I'm with you, this is what I have been thinking sorta too. I think i have a differe t case than you so its not apples to apples for us.

I see that you cannot just tap and put a flange on the end as there isn't enough shaft sticking out.

Once you pull off the cone shaped cover, you are exposing a bearing and you cannot just leave it exposed and drive around. I think the companies that sell these parts have figured out we can just buy a flange seal and tap our own shaft, so they price them accordingly to encourage you to just buy the whole kit.

just to confirm, is this an NP231? It says new process gear in red at the top. I'm pretty sure, just want a confirmation to set me straight.
Attached Thumbnails Hack & Tap question-xfer-case-id.jpg  

Last edited by Mike1114; Apr 6, 2012 at 07:08 PM.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #10  
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From: Elk River, Minnesota
Year: 1989
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231 indeed.
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:01 PM
  #11  
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From: Houston, Tx
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Originally Posted by Mike1114
I'm with you, this is what I have been thinking sorta too. I think i have a differe t case than you so its not apples to apples for us.

I see that you cannot just tap and put a flange on the end as there isn't enough shaft sticking out.

Once you pull off the cone shaped cover, you are exposing a bearing and you cannot just leave it exposed and drive around. I think the companies that sell these parts have figured out we can just buy a flange seal and tap our own shaft, so they price them accordingly to encourage you to just buy the whole kit.

just to confirm, is this an NP231? It says new process gear in red at the top. I'm pretty sure, just want a confirmation to set me straight.
that's the same one i just picked up at the jy, np231, i stuffed some grade 8 washers in my yoke from my old hack & tap (3 of them) and it gave about 1/4 of an inch from the yoke & the housing / seal. i'm going to go with this and see how it goes (rather than getting another kit)
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:08 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Chex_Mex
what about just tapping....no hacking? i just picked up a similar t-case (busted my 242 that had the external slip yoke). I'm thinking to re-use the yoke from my h&t plus some washers as spacers (to get the yoke far enough from the seal & housing to not cause damage) and just drilling & tapping the shaft to bolt the yoke on. i mean in theory this sounds alright am i right?
Your angles for the ds would suck without having a shorter tail shaft
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Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:13 PM
  #13  
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From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
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Originally Posted by dogger15
Your angles for the ds would suck without having a shorter tail shaft
no necessarily with a tc drop and shackles i ran 6.5 lift stock shaft no issue older xjs are more forgiving
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #14  
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From: Houston, Tx
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i think i'm gonna try it & will let yall know how it turns out (i mean worst scenario i have to buy the hack& tap kit, else i save money on the whole rear seal portion)
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #15  
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From: Houston, Tx
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ok, so fitting everything up, the d.s. only ends up being 1/2" shorter at most (if you had an np242), but there is more ov a development......fyi, the rear seal flange is worth the money vs trying to drill through hardened steel. it now makes sense. last time i did the hack n tap on my np242, after hacking, the drill & tap went into the shaft like butter (over exaggerated of course). now with just tapping, i have burned out a titanium drill bit and haven't made a mark on the shaft (over exaggerated again of course). so for Mike1114, the seal flange kit from iron rock is def. worth the time spent trying to drill & tap hardened steel
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