Just find a piece of wire that is far too long, and tape or cable-tie it to the alternator where you want to connect your ground, then route it however you want over to the battery. Now mark how long that is, measure it, and there you go. Actually, I suggest you don't go directly to the battery terminal, but go to the fender wall grounding point where your battery ground connects to the inside fender. (See photo below.) Make that your attachment point for your alternator ground. It will provide an excellent connection to your battery, and won't clutter up your terminal. This will make for a cleaner installation.
You can get a cable made to your specifications by BestBoatWire.com. Order the gauge, length and terminals that work for you. I have used them about a dozen times now, I think, and the quality and service has always been excellent, and they are not expensive. I always get the clear heat-shrink on the ends. That way I can see if any corrosion starts at the terminals. Good stuff!
While you are at it, think about cleaning up that fender ground. The factory ground there is really poor. Here's what I did:
Remove the existing ground cable.
Drill out the hole in the fender to 5/16".
Clean the area around the hole down to bare shiny metal. Make a clean area about the size of a nickel.
Fish a stainless steel bolt through from the back side, with a good SS star washer on it. Since you can't get back there to clean the paint off, use the star washer to bite in and give some contact.
On the front side, add a flat washer, then and a nyloc nut. All SS, of course, and liberally coated with dielectric grease. Tighten that thing down really well.
Now you have a very nice 5/16" stud sticking out of your fender, with excellent contact to the metal. Pop your new cable over that, and follow with a lock washer and nut.
Not sure but I'm willing to find out! I've been having a strange issue that seems to be electrical, and potentially related to my alternator. Just want to have all my T's crossed and i's dotted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54
Use a piece of string or rope to mimic the routing, allowing for engine movement and go grab it from the parts store.
Yeah, I was thinking that initially. Just wanted to see if anyone had the custom length from a set they already purchased, as I am spending so much time under the hood these days I'm thinking of putting in a futon and hot plate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark
While you are at it, think about cleaning up that fender ground. The factory ground there is really poor. Here's what I did:
Remove the existing ground cable.
Drill out the hole in the fender to 5/16".
Clean the area around the hole down to bare shiny metal. Make a clean area about the size of a nickel.
Fish a stainless steel bolt through from the back side, with a good SS star washer on it. Since you can't get back there to clean the paint off, use the star washer to bite in and give some contact.
On the front side, add a flat washer, then and a nyloc nut. All SS, of course, and liberally coated with dielectric grease. Tighten that thing down really well.
Now you have a very nice 5/16" stud sticking out of your fender, with excellent contact to the metal. Pop your new cable over that, and follow with a lock washer and nut.
Photo courtesy of CCKen
This is why I ask these questions, you learn little gems like this. I have one grounded to the fender right now via a machine screw. Definitely going to beef it up with this. Do you want the side that will be touching the ground terminal coated in dielectric grease as well?
No Oxguard. Dielectric. Everywhere. Be generous. Wipe off excess after the fasteners are tightened down.
Contrary to popular belief, Oxguard is not conductive. It is made for preventing corrosion of ALUMINUM connections in AC power circuits. In DC circuits it offers no benefits over dielectric grease, and it's messier. (It's FAR better than using nothing, though!)
Ok so BBW has the 1AWG back in stock finally. In terms of the lug, would the heavy wall have any advantages or disadvantages over the regular tinned copper?
Also, does anyone know the thread size of the negative cable anchor point on the alternator?
So here's the finished product. It made a noticeable difference. I vote this be added to the Ground Refreshing tip, Cruiser.
Took it for a test drive, and man it is so much smoother in idle, acceleration, and shifting. This is a sick upgrade. Thanks. BBW cable is awesome, easy to get, and a great price. I used boltdepot.com to order up the rest of my SS hardware, as my reliable bolt seller has moved out of town. They again are cheap, fast, and high quality. Ordered both the same day, both arrived on the same day.
BBW cable is awesome, easy to get, and a great price.
BBW.... cable??
Oh! You mean Best Boat Wire! Of course!
I was thinking.....
Looking good, sir! I think you answered the question about what are the benefits.
I would not have gone any bigger than 4 gauge, but the price difference isn't much. It's just that 4 will give you all the benefits you are going to get, and 1 is a big pain to work with.