Good rock crawler axels
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242CID I-6
Good rock crawler axels
Looking to up grade axels what would be the best for crawling with 35s? I was gonna look into Toyota axels but they are a passenger side drop. I don't want a full with, so kinda stuck. I would really like to get manual locking hubs and I want to be locked front and rear. Thanks guys
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
this is what I wanna run for 35's. just curious what you guys think about this setup. your comments will also help the OP
front: HPD30r
outter sleeve
truss
spicer ujoints
alloy shafts
USA standard 4.56's
lockrite locker
ruff stuff cover
rear: 8.8
31 spline chromos
yukon 4.56's
detroit full case
ruff stuff cover
front: HPD30r
outter sleeve
truss
spicer ujoints
alloy shafts
USA standard 4.56's
lockrite locker
ruff stuff cover
rear: 8.8
31 spline chromos
yukon 4.56's
detroit full case
ruff stuff cover
#5
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah those things are crazy pricey. you wont even need spares. no way I'd put THAT much money in a 30
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/rc...30-d44-130834/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f10/rc...30-d44-130834/
#6
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Year: 1988
Engine: 4.0 RENIX
i still wouldn't mess with a dana 30 on 35s, especially for a crawler. a custom narrowed 44 would be ideal, like a currie or dynatrac unit, although very pricey. you could opt for a JK dana 30, as the ring and pinion is actually slightly bigger and stronger than a regular 30. JK guys run them up to 37s i believe, with axle upgrades of course. don't think that would get you manual hubs though unless you dropped big bucks on a kit.
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
I thought about 8s for a while, but the right front axle is hard to find. IIRC, the LC60 front is driver drop and just under stock width and with longfields and knuckles its just over stock. If you're crawling, the bigger the better. If I had to do it again, I think I'd try for a lighter F150 front 44 and a built to the hilt 8.8 our back. Haven't really had a problem with my setup though, and don't really see any issues besides weight.. But I have much beefier housings than I need.. Which is good.
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Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i would also go with the Front ford 44/8.8 combo.
front 44 is plenty strong enough to handle 35's locked once you upgrade the shafts
and 8.8 is also plenty strong enough for 35's locked.
front 44 is plenty strong enough to handle 35's locked once you upgrade the shafts
and 8.8 is also plenty strong enough for 35's locked.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
A full case locker isnt going to help the ring and pinion not break.
The 30 is pretty under rated IMO. I broke one axle last year on 35's and was hammering it and knew I shouldnt have been doing what I was doing.
Its all about how you wheel though.
If your going to go through the hassle of putting in a 44, go with at least a 9" in the rear or a 44. Going to an 8.8" is a waste of time. still has c-clips, drives on the weak side of the ring gear.
You can use honda passport/isuzu rodeo rears. Pre 97 I think is a standard dana 44. later ones are 44's but are different, and need special parts to use standard ring and pinions. They can be had cheap, and have disk brakes also. They are 6 lug, so if you find a waggy 44 front, it would have a matching bolt pattern.
Waggy 44's would be a good swap.
Honestly if you dont drive crazy and go WOT on everything a HP30/.8.25 or 44 combo is great. I love the clearance of it.
Im currently on a mission to test the strength of the 29 spline 8.25. I have yet to break a shaft, but Ive broken a yoke.
You could also get a 44/9" combo from a bronco but you have to be careful with the front suspension. Many of these use cast wedges to hold the factory radius arms, and unless you plan on using them (which I dont recommend) they are a pain to work around.
Just remember, the 44 front still uses the same u-joint as a d30 in the axle shaft. While the rest of the axle is much bigger, you still have the same weak link. But RCV's in a 44 would fix that.
The 30 is pretty under rated IMO. I broke one axle last year on 35's and was hammering it and knew I shouldnt have been doing what I was doing.
Its all about how you wheel though.
If your going to go through the hassle of putting in a 44, go with at least a 9" in the rear or a 44. Going to an 8.8" is a waste of time. still has c-clips, drives on the weak side of the ring gear.
You can use honda passport/isuzu rodeo rears. Pre 97 I think is a standard dana 44. later ones are 44's but are different, and need special parts to use standard ring and pinions. They can be had cheap, and have disk brakes also. They are 6 lug, so if you find a waggy 44 front, it would have a matching bolt pattern.
Waggy 44's would be a good swap.
Honestly if you dont drive crazy and go WOT on everything a HP30/.8.25 or 44 combo is great. I love the clearance of it.
Im currently on a mission to test the strength of the 29 spline 8.25. I have yet to break a shaft, but Ive broken a yoke.
You could also get a 44/9" combo from a bronco but you have to be careful with the front suspension. Many of these use cast wedges to hold the factory radius arms, and unless you plan on using them (which I dont recommend) they are a pain to work around.
Just remember, the 44 front still uses the same u-joint as a d30 in the axle shaft. While the rest of the axle is much bigger, you still have the same weak link. But RCV's in a 44 would fix that.