theres a lot of early lame 44's

but most every modern 44 is the 30 spline, with the same center as the xj, same housing, and same outers. only difference being brakes, width, lug pattern, and suspension brackets.

i was thinking the same thing, not sure why this guy thinks the xj dana 44 is weaker, its the same freakin basic parts.

not sure why he thinks the 8.8 is weak either, maybe he just has a vendetta against C clips because of the infamous turdy five

A c clip is weaker than say a semi or full float axle though. The c clip recieves force when you turn and from weight of the vehicle not to mention twisting force. A semi float will not have much if any force going side to side when turning or when your off camber but will have weight from the vehicle though. A ff axle has no stress from turning or the weight of the vehicle you can break a ff axle and pull the shaft out and drive on it just like a dana 44 style front axle.
I too hate c clips which is part of the reason I'm selling my 8.8 but those and 44s are perfect for running 35s even with stock parts. :thumbs-up:

yeah, i don't think c clips are an ideal set up, but in the 8.8 i think they work fine and if you want to get rid of them the option is out there.

On 35's I wouldnt even bother worrying about the cclips in the 8.8

I also don't see how you can bag on the 8.8 while running 37's on a smaller, weaker, and also c-clip 8.25

78 f250 has a d44 hd in the front and a big bearing 9" in the back.
the front doesn't have the cast wedges as they're leaf sprung.
you can build your coil perch over the drivers side leaf mount if you grind/cut half of it off. very easy to do and they're not cast into the tube, they are cast into the center section.

or you can use the 78-79 bronco d44/9" and use the radius arms. just extend them as long arms and they will flex like a rock star.

Not to hi jack but, I herd that Toyota axles will work well. I have a chance to buy a 99 tacoma axle out of a 2wd. Any thoughs? Would it bolt right in? How much cutting and welding? Is it as strong as the 4x4 axles? Would It be worth it?

for my 2 cents lol

For 35's and no bigger the D30 and d44, 8.8, 8.25 (29spline) will work fine If your not to abusive. this is if your not going bigger then 35's (limited by the D30 IMO)

However 35+ the D30 blows due to the R+P becoming to weak of a link for me to care for. the D44 will be fine with alloys locked with 37-38's, If you think you may ever go 37+ I would just go D60 now.

D44's 30 splines are all pretty much the same and will handle 37's with alloys (agian without being abusive anything can break) I would pick a D44 over a 9" due to the weak third members, I have scene to many first hand break to pick that axle. If I need more then a D44 I would go with a D60. the main differences between D44's ar ethe width and tube thickness, most front D44's are 3" tueb diameter except the Ford 250 housings, they are bigger and thicker tube which are known for being the "ideal" D44 housing, most people narrow it to the wagoneer width and run alloy waggy shafts to get the best of both worlds for width,HP,stiffer housing. I didn't think the gains where worth the work for me while under a XJ and my driving style(jmho)

The Early 2 peice axle in the CJ's was a C20 the corprate 20 was a crappy axle in teh early model because of the 2 peice shaft and 19 splines, later they made a desent modle with a 1 peice shaft and more splines, but it still carier the bad reputaion due to the early modles.

The EB (early bronco 60-70's solid axle) D44 and 9" are a good option, it is a 28 spline 9" and basic D44 fornt. upgraded shafts, third member, truss, and locker will make its good.

The waggy D44 is a great front option, the D44 opens up a ton of options just because of lug patterns, 6 lug/5 lug/8 lug options with all bolt on parts. parts for the D44 is cheap easy to get and very available when compairing to other options. The rear can be a d44, rodeo d44, 8.8, 9" d60 ect all found in the proper widths other then the D60 (just a bit to wide but easy to cut down)

I would agree that C-clips are a poor design and are to be avoided when easy to. if I could pick a 8.8 or a 9" both same width/gears/cost I would go 9" just because of the c-cips, same for a 8.25/d44 ecty... However I would say that the C-clip is not a "Weak link" just a pain in the *** when fixing/breaking on the trail...

again these are my opinions.

Toyota axles are VERY strong for there size. I would compaire it to being just bit stronger then the D44 (talking about the 8" toy axles) the 2wd axle is pretty strong and a good axle (as long as its a 8" not the 7.5") the toyota E-locker will also drop in with a little mod to the housing. I would probably hold out for a D44 or 8.8 if your keeping the D30...

As far as swapping the axles the work is all the same, brackets cost the same, and proccess is generaly the same, the main difference is the cost of the axle, so in most cases its always better to go with the bigger axle.

Sorry got a bit confusing. So would the tacoma rear axle be good for $200. I figure they are known to be good axles pluss the bolt pattern is the same. I'm running a Dana 35 in the rear with 33s waiting for it to break. Came across this axle. Hoping it could swap in with little to no mods, as long as gearing works. So even the yokes will work?

Not a bolt on axle at all

I can weld and fab just fine. But if its going to be a lot of work I just want to prep before I buy it.

it consists of welding on new spring perches and shock mounts. very simple really. not much you can do to prepare except buying the perches and shock mounts. and don't forget the bolt pattern and width will be different.

I havent seen anyone use toyota axles in a jeep yet... im sure its been done but gotta be enough reasons why its not common...

It's hard to find a driver drop front 8 that's the right width, but I've seen a few guys running 44/8 combos. There's a guy on pirate who was running a h322b out of an xterra/frontier too. They're nissan's 9.