full size axles
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L Stroker
full size axles
So out of nowhere I decided I really want 1 ton or 3/4 ton full length axles... No idea why but I have some big plans for my little jeep. I was up until about 4am last night trying to figure out what axles I need and decided on 14 bolt Chevy in back and a d60 out of a ford up front.... Now the big question is what year ford has the diff on the drivers side and also would the work only really consist of cutting off all the brackets and rewelding on new ones to make them fit? I know regearing has to get done but as far is putting them in is it that easy? Or not so much
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L Stroker
Also my other problem is money, so cheaper way to do it would be the best, so far in me head its just getting the axles stripping off all the old brackets, ordering some beefy ones from tmr or something and then welding those one the axles hopefully in the right spot the first time haha, just hoping its that easy
#3
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ford only used a driver drop D60. 78-79 are the easiest due to the largest driver side tube. Later models have a very small amount of tube and you have to move your coil buckets up a few inches or run coil overs or air shocks. Best advice I can give is do your research and when you think you're ready do some more. Noting is cheap about a swap either. Plan on at least a grand for a front axle unless you find a steal, then a few hundred more replacing bearings, seals, hubs etc since it'll be an older axle. What size tires are you planning on because if it's less than 37s skip the tons. You'll be hanging up on everything. Come up with a budget after you get prices on everything then double it cause you'll miss some things and break things you planned on reusing.
#4
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
here are a couple quotes on my thread asking about 60/14. hope some of this helps. juantons aren't cheap
alright awesome. so heres a quick D60 price run down (using google found prices)
HPD60 housing $500-$700?
5.38 gears $200
install kit $125
spicer 5-806x $80
spartan locker $350
diff cover with discount $80
35 spline yukon outters $290
yukon lockouts $340
= aboutttt $2065 before tax and shipping
that leaves maybe $1000 for steering and brake rebuild. damn
HPD60 housing $500-$700?
5.38 gears $200
install kit $125
spicer 5-806x $80
spartan locker $350
diff cover with discount $80
35 spline yukon outters $290
yukon lockouts $340
= aboutttt $2065 before tax and shipping
that leaves maybe $1000 for steering and brake rebuild. damn
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#8
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
why does everyone think they need full widths lately
Last edited by Atmos; 01-29-2013 at 06:17 PM.
#9
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Not to jack the thread, but my buddy has a 44/9 set that I can have for free. I have been tossing around the idea and I know everything involved except for steering. What are you guys doing for your steering?
#10
Also as far as the full widths go x2 on the money when I did mine the only thing left on my axles that is old is the housing itself you can expect to change everything and that was a cost I didn't account for trust me its not cheap and like they said if you plan on driving on the street with no issues it is def going to be expensive like I said I have a 44 and 9 in mine and its not done yet it has been a year and half in the works and its close to being done but the test and tune hasn't even started yet I would say if you are going to want all top of the line **** then plan on spending at least 2000 per axle and that's with you doing all the work prob even more on the front make sure you account for everything when it comes to money and to do one tons nothing is cheap that's why I went with a hd 44 and a 9" rear
#11
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I built my steering with 1.5" DOM and 3/4" heims but I don't drive it on the road. Get the stock steering and modify as needed. Depending on year it could be crossover or the inverted Y which is scary.
#13
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you look at my build thread I have my steering setup in there you can look at that and pm me if you have any questions I would be happy to help
Also as far as the full widths go x2 on the money when I did mine the only thing left on my axles that is old is the housing itself you can expect to change everything and that was a cost I didn't account for trust me its not cheap and like they said if you plan on driving on the street with no issues it is def going to be expensive like I said I have a 44 and 9 in mine and its not done yet it has been a year and half in the works and its close to being done but the test and tune hasn't even started yet I would say if you are going to want all top of the line **** then plan on spending at least 2000 per axle and that's with you doing all the work prob even more on the front make sure you account for everything when it comes to money and to do one tons nothing is cheap that's why I went with a hd 44 and a 9" rear
#14
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.6L Stroker
Haha damn I appreciate all the advice and its really looking like I'm going to be getting a 44/9 main reason I want to get beefier axles is because I want to be able to run 35s, if you guys think my d30 and c8.25 with 4:10 will be good enough I may just keep those, also another reason I wanted to do the swap is because I've seen a few pics of them and absolutely love how wide it sits haha