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FST "low pro" shackle relocation installation...

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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:07 PM
  #46  
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Too be honest the price on their nutstrips is going to be pretty hard to significantly beat. Making these hasnt really been high on our priority list as JCRs nutstrips seem to do good at a fair price. I believe that Barrelmaker and a few others are using these nut strips with no complaints that I have heard so far. If us not offering them stops possible customers from ordering our poducts though, then we might have to get on the ball. lol

Kris Froehlich

Last edited by Lead Foot; Feb 10, 2013 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #47  
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Shackle angle looks great Smeltmaster. I didnt see you mention it, but you had to cut off that bumper weld nut correct?
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #48  
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From: Carrollton, GA
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
Too be honest the price on their nutstrips is going to be pretty hard to significantly beat. Making these hasnt really been high on our priority list as JCRs nutstrips seem to do good at a fair price. I believe that Barrelmaker and a few others are using these nut strips with no complaints that I have heard so far. If us not offering them stops possible customers from ordering our poducts, then we might have to get on the ball. lol

Kris Froehlich
My only thing would be that i want to make 1 purchase and it all comes in on box. So... make so and take my money! A bundle deal at $150?
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
Shackle angle looks great Smeltmaster. I didnt see you mention it, but you had to cut off that bumper weld nut correct?
yeah i did have to cut the nut off but like i said on those two nuts i didn't have any bolts to begin with so i didn't mind

i also post it on pirate like i said i would if you want to check it out
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot
JCRs nutstrips seem to do good at a fair price. I believe that Barrelmaker and a few others are using these nut strips with no complaints that I have heard so far.

Kris Froehlich
Jcr nut strips only grab the front 3 holes, i installed my hitch today and added a 1/2" gr. 8 bolt on the back to make sure all 4 of the shackle bolts are in.
Man that hitch gave me a hard time. 4 hours by myself, not because of the boxes, because it got messed up when i pulled it off. Stupid rust.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:28 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Barrelmaker
Jcr nut strips only grab the front 3 holes, i installed my hitch today and added a 1/2" gr. 8 bolt on the back to make sure all 4 of the shackle bolts are in.
Man that hitch gave me a hard time. 4 hours by myself, not because of the boxes, because it got messed up when i pulled it off. Stupid rust.
That was another question i had about it only having the first 3 holes, with the JCR strips in there how did you manage that?
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by smeltmaster1

looking back at your guys pics i can see why i kinda had a hard time bc your fenders are cut off in the rear and i only did mine like that half way but mine will be getting cut once i get my cage going
I have full fenders... Minus a gaping hole where rust is.
Could have been the fact we did it in 50° weather, cold makes it all harder.
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Barrelmaker
I have full fenders... Minus a gaping hole where rust is.
Could have been the fact we did it in 50° weather, cold makes it all harder.
it really wasn't cold out i work in this crap all day and i was talking about matts his fenders are folded at the bottom
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by smeltmaster1
it really wasn't cold out i work in this crap all day and i was talking about matts his fenders are folded at the bottom
Yea the difference between doing barrelmakers with regular fenders and mine with the fold is like building a ship in a bottle versus building a ship out of legos
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Old Feb 11, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mattphillips90
Yea the difference between doing barrelmakers with regular fenders and mine with the fold is like building a ship in a bottle versus building a ship out of legos
it would be alot easier to cut with the fenders if you have a multi tool with he metal blades put on on an angle i stopped by my stepdads job to see and it would have been perfect wish i would have thought of that before
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 01:09 AM
  #56  
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So looking at the pictures why is the original shackle bolt hole included? You aren't able to run it in the "stock" location again since no you have a bolt on the other side, right?
And can you run each bolt hole without hitting the bolt that goes in the stock shackle mount? And stock shackles run fine during full compression and droop correct?
Thanks.
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 01:34 AM
  #57  
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Hey I had a thought. What if you tapped each shackle bolt hole so that you could just screw the bolt right in and not even have to use the nut blindly trying to fit it on the end of the bolt
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 03:23 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mattphillips90
Hey I had a thought. What if you tapped each shackle bolt hole so that you could just screw the bolt right in and not even have to use the nut blindly trying to fit it on the end of the bolt
I was thinking that aswell.. or have a nut prewelded on the other side of the hole
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 09:35 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by cherokeelaredo'90
So looking at the pictures why is the original shackle bolt hole included? You aren't able to run it in the "stock" location again since no you have a bolt on the other side, right?
And can you run each bolt hole without hitting the bolt that goes in the stock shackle mount? And stock shackles run fine during full compression and droop correct?
Thanks.
The original shackle bolt hole is included for the bolt that bolts the upper section of the shackle box to the body via the stock shackle weld nut.

Yes, you can still run the stock location if you would like. Instead of using the shorter m14 bolt supplied that only goes through the inner bracket; insert the shackle in the stock position and use the stock bolt that goes all the way through to the weld nut.

The official testers that have installed these kits have not reported any clearance or binding issues even when flexing. I dont believe anyone has tested the bolt hole closest the stock hole, there shouldnt be a problem though. Even Matt who is running stock shackles did not need to use that closest hole to achieve the desired shackle angle.

Originally Posted by mattphillips90
Hey I had a thought. What if you tapped each shackle bolt hole so that you could just screw the bolt right in and not even have to use the nut blindly trying to fit it on the end of the bolt
We did think about this but chose not to do it for a couple reasons. We know you guys like to torque on your Jeep parts as tight as you can with a 6 foot breaker bar. lol If you accidentally stripped out one of those holes or weld on nuts then you would be in a world of hurt. Reason 2, welding on the nuts are really not an option as they are nylock nus so A: the nylock would melt upon welding, and B: they should really not be reused if ever taken off. Reason 3, cost. It would cost you guys a decent amount more for the kits if we needed to tap each hole or weld 10 more nuts on to these brackets.

After all guys, was it really that difficult to fit that open end wrench up in there?

Kris Froehlich
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Lead Foot

After all guys, was it really that difficult to fit that open end wrench up in there?

Kris Froehlich
Hahaha on the breaker bar but nah Its not too hard haha just a thought
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