CobraMarty

Ok have a 1998 XJ with 3" RC lift and 31" BFG MT and am now installing the RC adjustable track bar. The stock bar seemed to push the tires off to the passenger side a bit. I don't think that there was any front end wreck before.

How do you measure the left to right? How do you center the front axle? Do you just 'eyeball' it? Is there a 'centerline' mark on the XJ?

OEJ

it moved because of ur lift install. its normal.

take ur new tb and size it up against the old one. i think the axle side is to be installed first. should be in ur instructions. also the reason ur wheel is more to the pass side... is because of ur stock tb is to short now be cause of the lift.

so once ur new tb is installed all will be good. just make sure you do it with the wheels on the ground. incase u didn't know.

Donnie_K

lifting it would move the axle to the driver's side, not passenger side... Meaning you'd need to lengthen the track bar to get it back over to center.

CobraMarty

I remounted the track bar to the 'stock' lower hole and it is straight again. The guy who installed the 3" lift redrilled the lower mount hole 5/8" over and that is what caused the tires to move to the passanger side.

I have a new RC adj track bar but it won't thread in far enough to get the 'shortened/stock' length I need. Maybe just the threads buggered up a bit. I will run a tap thru them.

93gc40

When you center the axel. Do it with the jeep on the GROUND. turn the steering wheel to center the BODY over the axel. Then mount the track bar. An adjustable track bar might not be able to go to the stock length. In fact depending on which bar you have it may not go short enough for a 3" lift.

xj^REMY

um, good procedures, but why hasnt a tape measure been mentioned at all??

i didnt have "instructions" to go off when i installed my used ironman TB... didnt even touch the floor jack... took off the old stuff, installed "new" TB axle side first (hand tightened), made sure tires were pointing straight, MEASURED with TAPE MEASURE driver side frame (between shock & coil) & a good reference point on the tire (i used a straight edge that i held up against the tire)... i then made my adjustments... per my measurements, the axle was more towards the driver side about 1/2"... so i tried the steering wheel "shimmy" (turned about 1/4 to 1/2 turn left & right), re-measured, but couldnt get it more than 1/4" over to passenger side... so i grabbed a ratchet strap, one end on the driver side end link & the other on the passenger side frame, & ratcheted TIGHT, went to passenger side pushed on the fender towards the driver side, & "shimmied" the steering wheel again... SUCCESS!!... lengthened the TB to line up to the frame mount & torqued everything up

CobraMarty, as far as i kno, for a 3" lift, you should be able to still use the stock TB... probably y you cant get the RC bar short enough using the factory holes... also, sounds a bit sketchy to use the factory mount hole on the axle, when another hole (removing structural material) has been drilled next to it

I got a new OEM Track Bar for sale, if you're interested

93gc40

I get tired of mentioning the old tape measure. Learning to use one of those things, saves alot of useless typing and reading.

Its the rear wheels you are actually lining up with. The body should be in line with them already. So if you start by lineing up the axels, couple 2x4 will work for that. Then adjust the body so its center'd. Measure for verification and perfection. But the eyball is better if correcting for damage, known and unknown.

OEJ

My bad.

99 Purple XJ

When my rustys adj. track bar double sheer didnt line up with the hole with all wheels on the ground i had to jack up the driver side under the frame rail to get the track bar to fit

CobraMarty

I will get the 'new' hole welded up, but what is the difference between this and using the new hole and leaving the stock hole open as some lift kits recommend?

I got a laser level and will align the front with the rear tires. I can never find a straight 2x4.

I have to just clean out the threads deeper on the RC TB so I can screw it in further to shorten it to the stock length.

xj^REMY

yea, companies recommend it... no difference, i guess, & i'm no structural engineer or metallurgist, but I feel its not ideal, in either case... people DD & wheel that set up without issues, so i guess its not a issue

great idea with laser level... gotta dig down deeper into the pile for the "straighter" ones!

good luck getting the TB lined up & bolted up