Fox vs Bilstein vs OME
#31
the pressure of the nitrogen inside the shock isn't the only thing that changes the 'feel' of a shock. a shock charged to 150psi with aggressive shim stacks will be a lot stiffer than a shock with 400psi valved like an old couch. the reason i know you have no real knowledge is that you're recommending a twintube shock over a monotube.
again with the pressure. do you actually know what the nitrogen is there to do or are you just rehearsing what your supplier told you to tell people? it's there to keep the oil from cavitating, which happens when the shock modulates quickly... i.e; going offroad. let me learn you on how shocks are constructed so you can understand WHY the pressure varies so greatly.
twintubes run at a more "normal" pressure bc theyre designed with the oil in one section of the shock, and gas in the other. there is no internal floating piston (or IFP, which, described most elementary, is a metal cylinder with holes in it and some rubber seals) to keep the gas and oil separated.
since OEM-style monotube shocks are so small, the pressure NEEDS to be much higher so the gas can do its job. simple as that. adjusting gas pressure is the LAST thing you do to change the feel of a shock, it is far too unreliable of an adjustment to be constant in environments and applications. my bilstein 9100s are stiff as hell, and i charged them to 225psi. if i drop to 150psi, i probably wont notice a difference.
again OEM STYLE MOUNTING bilsteins have NOTHING TO DO with a 5125/5150/5165/7100/9100/9300... those are the shocks you buy for your truck and the only description is "make/model... xxx" lift." these are MUCH softer bc of what has been said already more than once. the ones that everyone should be buying have valving numbers listed. you're still throwing on a generic valve, but its much better suited to a lifted and wheeled vehicle than some OEM soft valve made to mimic stock feel. if its some vehicle you drive it on the street, and its stock, no one here should care; bc an off the shelf frontier shock is no where near the same as an off the shelf jeep shock. that would be like me saying the monroes on my mom's explorer handle great, so thats what we should put in our jeeps.
real shocks are finally starting to catch on in the aftermarket, and not just racing applications. hell, just 2-3 years ago people thought they could race KOH with air shocks...
again with the pressure. do you actually know what the nitrogen is there to do or are you just rehearsing what your supplier told you to tell people? it's there to keep the oil from cavitating, which happens when the shock modulates quickly... i.e; going offroad. let me learn you on how shocks are constructed so you can understand WHY the pressure varies so greatly.
twintubes run at a more "normal" pressure bc theyre designed with the oil in one section of the shock, and gas in the other. there is no internal floating piston (or IFP, which, described most elementary, is a metal cylinder with holes in it and some rubber seals) to keep the gas and oil separated.
since OEM-style monotube shocks are so small, the pressure NEEDS to be much higher so the gas can do its job. simple as that. adjusting gas pressure is the LAST thing you do to change the feel of a shock, it is far too unreliable of an adjustment to be constant in environments and applications. my bilstein 9100s are stiff as hell, and i charged them to 225psi. if i drop to 150psi, i probably wont notice a difference.
again OEM STYLE MOUNTING bilsteins have NOTHING TO DO with a 5125/5150/5165/7100/9100/9300... those are the shocks you buy for your truck and the only description is "make/model... xxx" lift." these are MUCH softer bc of what has been said already more than once. the ones that everyone should be buying have valving numbers listed. you're still throwing on a generic valve, but its much better suited to a lifted and wheeled vehicle than some OEM soft valve made to mimic stock feel. if its some vehicle you drive it on the street, and its stock, no one here should care; bc an off the shelf frontier shock is no where near the same as an off the shelf jeep shock. that would be like me saying the monroes on my mom's explorer handle great, so thats what we should put in our jeeps.
real shocks are finally starting to catch on in the aftermarket, and not just racing applications. hell, just 2-3 years ago people thought they could race KOH with air shocks...
#32
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I didn't. I don't care, it's an off the shelf shock for a completely different truck. Unless the kybs turned into a dragon and ate your family its irrelevant.
#33
#35
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm trying to setup a SA that lift my rig about 4.5-5".
I know from several pages that the Bilstein 5100 that match this lift are:
Model: Collapsed/Extended
24-185943 17/28.5
33-151663 16/26
I've found that Fox 2.0 has the following:
Model Collapsed/Extended
98224920 15.42/25.95
98224961 15.80/26.20
But Bilstein 7100 just have this size:
AK7110S04 10" 16.1/25.77
The next model have a travel of 12" and 19.53/ 31.1 collapsed/extended.
I was thinking in Fox 2.0 or Bilstein 7100 because it'd possible to rebuild them. It has sense to put this kind of shocks or go by the 5100?
How I can match the size, do I need shocks adapters or something else?
I'm also thinking in JKS cross member shocks adapter.
I know from several pages that the Bilstein 5100 that match this lift are:
Model: Collapsed/Extended
24-185943 17/28.5
33-151663 16/26
I've found that Fox 2.0 has the following:
Model Collapsed/Extended
98224920 15.42/25.95
98224961 15.80/26.20
But Bilstein 7100 just have this size:
AK7110S04 10" 16.1/25.77
The next model have a travel of 12" and 19.53/ 31.1 collapsed/extended.
I was thinking in Fox 2.0 or Bilstein 7100 because it'd possible to rebuild them. It has sense to put this kind of shocks or go by the 5100?
How I can match the size, do I need shocks adapters or something else?
I'm also thinking in JKS cross member shocks adapter.
#37
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 93XJLI
Why are you bumping this old thread when you already posted on naxja?
#38
Not every one here posts on or reads threads on NAXJA.
Nothing wrong with posting on multiple forums.
The more info he gets, the more informed he'll be when he's ready to make a purchase.
Nothing wrong with posting on multiple forums.
The more info he gets, the more informed he'll be when he's ready to make a purchase.
#39
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i-6 4.0
Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad
Not every one here posts on or reads threads on NAXJA.
Nothing wrong with posting on multiple forums.
The more info he gets, the more informed he'll be when he's ready to make a purchase.
Nothing wrong with posting on multiple forums.
The more info he gets, the more informed he'll be when he's ready to make a purchase.
#41
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Year: 1998
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