Ford 8.8 vs. U-Bolts
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Ford 8.8 vs. U-Bolts
Through searching online, I've come across a myriad of opinions on what the torque specs are of the rear leafsping-to-axle u-bolts. I've heard as low as 55ft-lbs to 102ft-lbs. I cranked mine down to 100 even and now I have a popping sound under torque and tight turns. Can't remember what I cranked them down to when the axle first went in.
How tight can I crank those things down? It looks like its starting to distort the retention plate. I seriously doubt I would crush or bend the axle tubes but what do you think the max torque is there?
How tight can I crank those things down? It looks like its starting to distort the retention plate. I seriously doubt I would crush or bend the axle tubes but what do you think the max torque is there?
#3
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Nah, 3/8" thick from CreepyFabrication, operated by another CF Member, Hammered.
Found this, but they may be pulling that torque spec out of their _______
http://www.4x4proyect.com/product/ru...ing_u-bolts/fr
#4
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
That may be it though- RuffStuff's plates (also 3/8") have a lateral bend that would prevent the perpendicular distortion I'm experiencing. I may just weld a couple of bridges on for rigity...
#6
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Justin, TEXAS
Posts: 1,802
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
How do you know they are what's making the noise?
Check shock bushings and spring eye bushings for good measure. I don't know if I would be cranking them too far past 100.
Like atoms said, ruff stuff is the way to go if you only like buying things once
Check shock bushings and spring eye bushings for good measure. I don't know if I would be cranking them too far past 100.
Like atoms said, ruff stuff is the way to go if you only like buying things once
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
Grease the inside of the U. And tap 'em with a hammer a few times and check tork again. One reason they might loosen is if they fetch up a bit cockeyed when you tighten them, and then get knocked straight after a while. Greasing and tapping helps ensure they seat properly and you git all the slack out. I think....
Last edited by goatherder; 02-15-2015 at 09:35 PM.
#9
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Grease the inside of the U. And tap 'em with a hammer a few times and check tork again. One reason they might loosen is if they fetch up a bit cockeyed when you tighten them, and then get knocked straight after a while. Greasing and tapping helps ensure they seat properly and you git all the slack out. I think....
That's pretty much what the problem was- I put a bottle jack on the base of the differential closest to the pinon and tilted the axle up and heard a loud pop from one side. Staring at the clean u-bolts on the shiny axle tubes made me realize what might be going on... When we removed the old bolts, we cleaned up the axle tubes with a rag that already had grease and RTV on it, and I think that made the surface slick enough that the axle could twist a little. All of the welds where the tubes meet the pumpkin are still solid so I'm glad I didn't spin any of them. I removed the u-bolts, sprayed everything down with brake cleaner and wiped it with a clean cloth and then laid down some new black spray paint. I tightened the bolts while it was still tacky and went to 110ft.lbs. and haven't heard a pop since. Thanks for everyone's help.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)