Fixing The Rust and bedlinering the outside
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,460
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by raypla
U-Pol Raptor FTW. Check tptools.com for a decent price, $110 to my door. The prep is 95% of the time to do the job properly and is the most important step IMO. I sprayed the U-Pol to mainly combat the rust that was developing on my rockers, but it does nothing if they are rusting from the inside out.
Current pic, 2 years on the U-Pol........
Current pic, 2 years on the U-Pol........
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 316
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From: 10 mi NE of Albany NY
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
1/4 of the supplied material
Check out http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_why_choose.htm too, they are a 2 part system also. They weren't around when I made my purchase. I read that U-Pol is an English co. where as Monstaliner is Right out of NY.
Check out http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_why_choose.htm too, they are a 2 part system also. They weren't around when I made my purchase. I read that U-Pol is an English co. where as Monstaliner is Right out of NY.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,460
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
So Im looking at the: ML90RK2G 2 Gallon Bedliner Kit - Black (Includes complete tool kit below #MLRTK) $239.00
I don't think 1 gallon would be enough for the whole thing..but damn $250 is a little more than I was looking to spend but it look like its legit
I don't think 1 gallon would be enough for the whole thing..but damn $250 is a little more than I was looking to spend but it look like its legit
FWIW I used the duplicolor spray on bedliner to do the lower panels on my two chevy blazers and after a year it's still looking good and wearing well. A couple things I learned though regarding a good outcome:
1) prep well with some sandpaper, I roughed everything up with a good 200 grit paper and then wiped it all down with a damp cloth.
and the biggie!
2) For some reason wind screws up the drying process, every time I tried applying any either in the wind or when it was below 70 or so degrees it dried weird and had like a white film over it, but if I kept it sheltered and only worked when it was warm it came out great.
Here's a shot of one of the blazers about a week after I sprayed it. (The brown behind the front tire is dirt, not a problem with the finish).
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSCF2405.jpg

1) prep well with some sandpaper, I roughed everything up with a good 200 grit paper and then wiped it all down with a damp cloth.
and the biggie!
2) For some reason wind screws up the drying process, every time I tried applying any either in the wind or when it was below 70 or so degrees it dried weird and had like a white film over it, but if I kept it sheltered and only worked when it was warm it came out great.
Here's a shot of one of the blazers about a week after I sprayed it. (The brown behind the front tire is dirt, not a problem with the finish).
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSCF2405.jpg

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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Woburn, MA
Year: 1998
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I agree with JeepJunky, the prep is 95% of the outcome. Whether you paint/bedline, you can buy top-of-the-line and it'll still look like crap if you don't take the time to prep it right. The paint/bedline is only as good as the surface it's applied to.
I had an old 89 Ford F150 that the po bedlined the whole thing from the top of the body lines down and you COULDN'T HURT THAT THING WITH A HAMMER!!! It actually looked really good too.
I had an old 89 Ford F150 that the po bedlined the whole thing from the top of the body lines down and you COULDN'T HURT THAT THING WITH A HAMMER!!! It actually looked really good too.
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