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Old 03-05-2014, 08:20 PM
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Default fire safety/vehicle protection

So question, besides an extinguisher, what else could someone do to help with safety or protection of vehicle incase of a fire? I own an extinguisher and have it mounted at arms length when im sitting in the drivers seat, but if anyone has any tips on where to mount, and what kind of extinguisher along with any other safety mods for when the vehicle is flipped or on fire, feel free to add your input. Maybe we can help others by sharing our knowledge and info.
Old 03-05-2014, 08:38 PM
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I'm no expert, but I know there's a specific type of extinguisher to have (there's like A, AB, ABC or something? Idk) that works best on certain types of fires...Maybe someone who knows the exact one will chime in soon
Old 03-05-2014, 09:18 PM
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I've still got an old Halon extinguisher. CO2 is also good for engine fires. Doesn't leave a residue if you have to use it. Definitely get one rated for whatever your intended use is. Something like a 5A:10BC, if I remember correctly.
Old 03-06-2014, 05:05 AM
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the best for carrying in the car would be an ABC fire extinguisher or a Co2 extinguishers that takes care of both B and C.

Class A: wood, paper, cloth, trash, plastics (solids that are not metals)
Class B: flammable liquids-gasoline, oil, grease, acetone (includes flammable gases)
Class C: electrical fires, energized electrical equipment fires (anything that is plugged in) Class D: Metal fires involving magnesium, sodium, potassium, and sodium-potassium alloys. ----shouldn't apply to use
Class K: Commercial Deep Fryers.....we shouldn't have these in our Jeeps but then again it wouldn't shock me if someone put a deep fryer in their Jeep....
Old 03-06-2014, 05:10 AM
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To me a fire extinguisher is just for you to get out safe,Have full coverage so if it burns to the ground its covered.
Old 03-06-2014, 07:47 AM
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The powder in ABC drychem fire extinguishers is corrosive, just so you know, if you do use one, clean it up asap. CO2 won't have that problem, but I don't think I've ever seen a CO2 small enough to fit in your car easily, and may be more expensive than a small drychem anyways. $30 for a small drychem is a wise investment. As stated above, don't expect it to save your car in the event of a larger fire, use it to save your own ***.
Old 03-06-2014, 08:25 AM
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Prevention is key. Seems many fires are started by faulty wiring, usually done by owner.
Always use an auxiliary power system like 'painless' brand and relays. Run wires in looms.
Here on the beach we have at least one vehicle fire per year from an overheated transmission, the fluid vents out and ignites or the whole tranny combusts.
Caused by folks driving through deep and soft sand for miles with too much air in the tires, and running the air conditioning.
Old 03-06-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Prevention is key. Seems many fires are started by faulty wiring, usually done by owner.
Always use an auxiliary power system like 'painless' brand and relays. Run wires in looms.
Here on the beach we have at least one vehicle fire per year from an overheated transmission, the fluid vents out and ignites or the whole tranny combusts.
Caused by folks driving through deep and soft sand for miles with too much air in the tires, and running the air conditioning.
^ Excellent advice
Old 03-06-2014, 08:39 AM
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Anyone run battery or fuel cutoffs?
Old 03-06-2014, 09:39 AM
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Atmos. Where you at
Old 03-06-2014, 10:20 AM
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That's just wrong, LOL
Old 03-06-2014, 12:37 PM
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Here's a good kit from Safecraft. Good experience with this model.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/saf-rs10aab/overview/
Old 03-06-2014, 02:35 PM
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Couldn't help it.
Old 03-06-2014, 02:50 PM
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I haven't figured out this back story, but I have seen the avatar on fire and follow his build thread.
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