zebvance

Hey guys. I just bought a 1988 MJ It is from canadia which Is crazy because the whole gauge cluster Is in KMH and Meteric units. Anyway It has 164,000 KM which is 101,000 Miles on it. It came with a 4.5 inch Rought Country lift on it and It was installed a year ago .It need some things here and there and I have some questions so Here I go.

First off, Starting with the lift. I FREAKING HATE IT! Its way to stiff, But thats besides the point. The truck is stitting a a dumb rake. The back is about 3 inches higher that the front. I would like to level it out with 2 inch spacers that I already have for right now, But my questions is what else needs to be extented or lengthened to deal with the extra 2 inches. I know the track bar is on a drop bracket that relocates it prob 2 to 3 inches lower than stock, But I was thinking with the extra 2 inches I would still need a new track bar,also Im thinking I will also need longer sway bar links and drop pitman arm, maybe for a 6-7 inch lift? Also Am I going to need new shocks or will the ones that came with the RC lift extend enough? I am currently running 32's btw. Oh and one last question about the lift. The front drive shaft is stock, can It handle another 2 inches or will that put it in a bad angle. I know the back drive shaft is a brand new custom made lengthen aluminum drive shaft though.

Next, I went to change the air filter oil ect, and I found a good bit of oil in the Filter. It is the 4.0 engine BTW. I have been reading that that Is blow by caused by the ccv system. There also Is a small leak on towards the back of the vale cover coming from the valve cover gasket. From what I have read I need to pull off the valve cover and replace the gasket and full ccv system (hoses ect) My question is How hard is the job, Can I do it my self, and how much would this run me to do it my self vs taking it to a shop?

Also, The 4wd works good from what I can tell so far but you have to play with it to get it back in 2wd after you put it in 4wd. I guess It sounds like a linkage problem to me. Is this a common problem? Is it easy to fix and How much would it cost?

Now to the brakes, you have to really get into them for them to start stopping. Is this normal or not. It almost feels like the booster is out to me.
and the freaking DA's who installed the lift cut the e-brake cable because It wasnt long enough after they put the lift on. Well I have to have it working to pass inspection, so my question is can I get extended cables or what should I do.


Radiator Recovery Tank!- Its cracked and has a leak, where can I find a cheap one?

And Last I picked up the truck for 2500, the guy wanted 4500 but I talked him down because It was alot more beat up than I thought it was and It had some issues and needs new tires. In the pictures it really doesn't look as beat up as it really is. But anyway, Do yall think I got a good deal and what would yall price it to be worth if I was to have to sell it?


Oh also Im a student and On a very slim budget, so keep that in mind.

Thanks everybody, and here is a few pictures of the rig.

peep

Brought in from Canada eh? That Comanche looks great! Appears you have some aftermarket lower control arms in there. If you have the 2" front spacers, I would definately put them in. That lift height would rock. Alternatively looks like you could lower your rear shackle positon to level out. To me lift is like advancement, never retreat. Can you redrill the track bar hole at the lower mount, about 3/4" to the drivers side may compensate for the add in of the 2" spacers. All round a great looking truck.

zebvance

Thanks, I bought it here in texas I have no Idea when It was brought down. I have thought of lowering the back but I would really like to clear 33's in the front. As for the track bar the drop bracket that is already on it can not move, the way it is made I wouldn't be able to drill new holes and slide it over. Its kind of hard to explain I guess I need to get a picture to show you what Im talking about. and thanks for the comments.

cruiser54

When shifting from 2wd to 4wd and back again, always do it at speed driving in a straight line.

zebvance

I did that all I heard was a big boom......

PingPong

Nice MJ.

Try adjusting your t-case linkage.

as for the lift I would lower it down... or get bigger tires. Stock a MJ will clear 31's and with 2" lift you can clear 33's with some trimming. 6" WILL CLEAR 35'S and ride nice if you have soft springs.


As for your brakes the MJ's have a load sensing valve and a funky brake prop valve. What I did to all my MJ's was to swap in a XJ prop valve and bypass the hieght sensing valve.

midnightjeeper

First off, Nice ride!! I'm building a 2wd into a 4wd MJ right now and it has been a constant battle with getting everything going in the right direction. I am doing a V8, 1 ton axles, and approx. 8" of lift, so I am hoping for a very close comparison to your MJ, just a tad bigger...lol

On the brake set-up, I found a booster and master cylinder from a 97 XJ(anything newer than '95 should be the same) and installed it as it has a dual diaphragm in it which will give you more stopping power for the bigger tires and lift height. Should be cheap at a JY, just got to pull it yourself!!

On adding the spacers, you will have to change your shocks up front, more than likely, as they may not travel up as far as you are planning to go with the spacers. You may also have to extend your front brake lines to compensate for the extra height/travel. I would suggest lowering the back a bit if your on a budget as the brake lines and shocks could get out of your budget quick, and you would have to extend you sway bar disconnects, which is a few more coins added in there, oh, and bumpstops...

On the driveshaft, it should work as I'm running a 6.5" lift and the front shaft is not my concern, its the rear. The rear needs an SYE(slip yoke eliminator, in my opinion) to make sure the driveshaft doesn't fall out of the transfer case at extreme angles and to take out some of the vibrations that are felt after installing this size lift. So if you do lift the front, the driveshaft SHOULD be ok.

The transistion on the 2 to 4wd and back should be done in a straight line and in nuetral, then go to 2wd, then to reverse to disengage the t-case properly, without breaking anything. Going into 4wd should just be nuetral, engage 4wd and then to drive. Never had a problem when doing it this way! My own experience.

And lastly, if you have any kind of mechanical knowledge, you should be able to change the valve cover gasket and CCV. These are pretty easy things to do, and now that you have a Jeep, working on it will be half the fun of owning it!!

Nice Ride, just drop the back!!

freegdr

up gradeing the brake booster is a must on to the dual diag setup search it well worth the time and money

zebvance

Thanks for the info everybody

zebvance

Bump for some more help with the lift questions. Will the drive shaft be find and I think I'm going to need new lower control arms If I'm not mistaken. Also does anybody have any of the parts to buy? Adjustable lower control arms, 2 inch spacers or 6.5 inch lift coils and a adjustable trac bar?

Gee oh Dee

If no one has said it, get shakle relocation brackets. It'll help get rid of the harsh ride created my your practically vertical shakles.

89eliminator

they dont make relocation brackets for MJs. some guys just drill a hole a little inward to the current hole.

zebvance

I would like to Leave the back at the current height and raise the front more