cheesyxj

There seems to be so much conflicting info on the forums,and all the lift kit companies seem to include different parts.What is the correct method for my recently installed 3" rustys lift.longer end links,or dropped sway bar mounts? the end links were in a horrible binding position so I made 2" drop brackets,but doesnt seem "Right" to me.Should I just buy dicos's if so on the end links?
Sorry for the repetitive nature of this question.

MTLXJ

Get quick disconnects. You can adjust the height.

mikeoc1

x2

MountiansRcool

definantely discos, i ran for a year with now sway bars you just cant drive like a dip ****, but i upgraded to the rough country discos, they work, but when i want to re attach them when im done wheelin they are a pain in the *** to do,

offroadordnance

Is your bracket a spacer between the frame and bushings? If so, the holes that mount to the frame need to be offset about 3/4" back from the holes that mount the bushing brackets to keep the links vertical. Otherwise your links will be leaning back toward the springs.

cheesyxj

Yeah realized that after I made the first set. I will just buy disco's even though I'll probably never use them. For the price of longer links, brackets, might as well.

VTJeep

At 3" there's no need for drop brackets. You can make homemade discos for a fraction of the cost of store bought. Mine are easier than JKS quicker disco's. And no need to grease the zerks all the time. In the end, you want your sway bar to be parallel with the ground. Have you removed the rear sway bar yet?

cheesyxj

Interested in making my own, you got a link to how you did yours?
I left the rear on. This is a DD/weekend warrior, reasons to pitch it?
Just don't want to remove it For no reason.

VTJeep

With leaf spring rear there's no need for a rear sway bar. If you DD it then a front bar is good, but there is such a nominal difference on pavement without the rear bar that you will barely notice it's gone. The upcountry's came from the factory without one. As for how.. Gimme a sec I'll look for a write up..

VTJeep

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/wa...-links-142855/

Just one of the write ups.. I used 5/8" clevis pins and a couple washers. If you go with dual eyelet links (over eye/stud style) then you'll need a bracket to attach link to arm. This is where it starts gettin more expensive, but STILL cheaper and IMHO more reliable than store bought ones.

Oh and my method of getting the old T55 torx bolt out was to cut it flush and then use tool to back it out the rest of the way.

cheesyxj

Damn,that is so easy I feel dumb for askin
thanks man

MountiansRcool

definately remove the rear sway bar, it will make ur leafs flex alot better and u barley notice its gone on the road, u just need the front swaybar

yarom

Interesting statement. The instructions from JKS clearly show the sway bar ends setup at 15 to 20 degrees up. When parallel, they will touch the coil..

VTJeep

The arm will not be parallel so much as where the link mounts to it.. Don't split hairs