I think he said its lifted to 4.5".

I'd prefer some chocolate and beer

4.5" and an sYE? I'm so confused right now. Just had some Mojo Rising with dinner......

I'm watching my nephew. That means I didn't have a good dinner. Plus I didn't sleep enough after working a double yesterday. What the hell we discussing again I'm lost

I think we're discussing alcohol and sweets.

Oh yea, I need to pick up some beer.

Ok this is where I'm at I have not gotten out to get a shaft yet. I have a buddy who's been parting out a rig looking to see if he has a stock shaft from an auto which should be shorter than the shaft from a manual. If not I'm going to take my daily driver to the junk yard and find one. If all else fails I will do either a hack and tap or a full sye. The jeep is my toy it is not a daily driver. I used 4x4 hi to get it out of my shop and to where the tow truck could access it. It has a renix 4.0 with a ba10/5 and a np231 with NO SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR. I have a 1" transfer case drop the PO welded in. I am sitting on a 4.5 " lift. I swapped the d 35 for a 01 c8.25. The pinion is a different length between the two. The 8.25 being longer. With my jeep on the hoist at my shop wheels fully off the ground. Which would be full down ward travel the old shaft off the d35 is about 1" too long that's with the yoke fully seated into the t case. The old shaft measures 34" joint to joint. The jeep is sitting in my parking lot at home now. I crawled under there and from the tip if the output shaft to the rear yoke is 33" at ride height. Factor in a fully seated yoke will stick out of the case about what 2.5-3 " that means at ride height and no slide inward for the yoke the longest shaft I can run is 29-30" but would need ideally about 27-28" shaft not including the yoke. Any of that seem wrong ? I have one more day of work before my weekend then I can go shaft hunting. Sorry for being bloody it's been a tough weeks at work tensions run high sometimes. And I do perfer a few shots of Whiskey and some chocolate to midol and chick flicks

We have shoulders to cry on . the combined "genius" here know the sizes and difference between the d35 and 8.25. But by telling us now that its not a DD, we don't need to rush and get you in something fast. Sorry the PO did a dick thing welding in the TC drop. Def go with an SYE. You'll get a bigger shaft instead of a hack n tap which uses the same shaft. Salad has a chart, not sure if cruiser has it, that has all the zj and xj driveshafts and lengths. Maybe PM him for it. Would make easier then guessing. Since you need the DS I'd say go with a SYe now so its done. And break the welds off and get a new crossmember. Good luck

Beer and sweets? Drink a liqueur if you want that. Plenty of stories start "So after we finished the Bailey's..."

Oh yeah. I forgot about that chart. Thought this was the other thread.

The cross member bolts to the drop which is welded to the uniframe the cross member is removable. And from salads chart it looks like sye is the way to go. Still gunna try the jy first

See we got you. Always give as much info as possible. We just love f'n around here.

Thanks for the quick response salad

I know y'all do. I don't mind a slow response either. Thanks guys

The situation was urgent last night as it was my and my roommates ride home but thankfully I have road side I could have left it at my shop but I don't like that area specially with no doors

Get a SYE and run a FRONT xj driveshaft in the rear.
Cheap and effective

That's what I will prolly end up doing

Well went to the wrecking yards in lil tj today they had several Cherokees. Even the one with the ax15 still I left that one alone. I brought my tape measure and all were over 31" I found a red 93 with out a shaft in it I looked in the back of it ad there was a shaft it measures 31" exactly u joint to u joint. I took it hoping it would be just short enough. Got home and put it in it was perfect length I am glad I didn't find the 28" shaft I was looming for