Hey Guys!

Just spent the last few days in the garage working on the Ol' 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport. I'm running into an issue with the Steering and hoping the hive mind can pitch in!

I've installed a 4" lift, adjustable track bar and the Rough Country Steering Upgrade. I've got the Tie Rod in fine, however, when I go install the Drag link, it is REALLY fighting me to rotate forward in order to slot into the Pitman Arm. I can certainly force it in, but I feel like that'd cause some issues down the road? When I look up the kit it it even mentions "rotational non-articulating joints" which to me indicates, the joints are not designed to have this angle here?

Anyone have similar issues?

Sorry about the crude drawing, I'll try to grab a real image tomorrow!

Thanks in advance.
Landon

 

Yes, pics would help.

 

Hopefully this helps clarify a bit! Basically, i would have imagined this joint being more of a "ball in socket" type joint; instead it seems to only rotate on it's mounting plane.

 

I tried to locate your steering upgrade on the Rugged Ridge site, but couldn't find it. What do you have for a tie rod attachment point. Can't tell from the pic

 

No Problem - It's the rough country steering upgrade: https://www.ffcustoms.com/p-66206-je...-zj-10604.aspx

Here is another shot of the attachment point

 

Thank you, that is what I suspected the case was. That design is prone to tie rod roll, so they put those stiff poly bushings in to compensate for that. It will go, but I would suggest using a ratchet strap to pull the drag link forward so you can get it in.

 

Right on!, Thanks for the quick response, after looking into these bushings a bit more, that makes perfect sense.

Back to the garage!

 

Sfr makes some pretty cool boots that keep the tie rod from rolling (as much) also the cure from ruff stuff does the same. These products do actually work
im running the cure and it works well. Can run no wondering or dead spot in the steering

im surprised your getting binding like that. The cure does kinda put a bind in that plane. It takes alitt work you sand the cure to fit. I have not run stinky fab boots to know if the need tuning. They suposebly don't aren't hard like cure.

https://www.stinkyfab.com/products/sfr-roll-stopper-tie-rod-end-boot

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R1768.html

 

might not work in this instance, but I found simply altering the pinion angle made front end parts fit together easier, jack under the nose or tail of front diff

 

Did you get the wheelbase corrected after the 4” springs? If not that may fix the problem your having. I can’t tell from the pic if you have adjustable arms or not.

 

I still have the stock Control Arms, so it had definitely pulled the axle back, I'm adding some shims to the lower arms to correct the caster, but if anything, that'll make the issue worse as it'll rotate the axle away.

I think my longer term solution will be to get adjustable control arms, and replace the TRE with a conventional end + The Cure that I can sand down and align properly.

I'm just waiting for the missing Jam nut for the pitman arm end TRE, then I'll be sure to update the thread with how it drives afterwards, or if there is any major binding etc. (although based on the comments i don't expect any major issues)