JCR 1ton Under knucke issues
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
JCR 1ton Under knucke issues
Ive got a 99 with4.5 RC short arm lift. IRO double shear track bar and bracket. Everything has been great. I installed the 1 ton steering this weekend and got my first taste of death wobble on my first test drive. I came back to the shop and found the jam nuts loose on the drag link. I tightened them back up only to strip the one on tie rod end. I also now seem to have an issue with castor on both tires. Top of the tires are in.
Was wondering if anybody has had simillar issues. Why would the castor angles change? Could the death wobble cause it?
Was wondering if anybody has had simillar issues. Why would the castor angles change? Could the death wobble cause it?
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Ive got a 99 with4.5 RC short arm lift. IRO double shear track bar and bracket. Everything has been great. I installed the 1 ton steering this weekend and got my first taste of death wobble on my first test drive. I came back to the shop and found the jam nuts loose on the drag link. I tightened them back up only to strip the one on tie rod end. I also now seem to have an issue with castor on both tires. Top of the tires are in.
Was wondering if anybody has had simillar issues. Why would the castor angles change? Could the death wobble cause it?
Was wondering if anybody has had simillar issues. Why would the castor angles change? Could the death wobble cause it?
The JCR kit should have no effect to camber/caster, Just toe. Did you have an alignment done? that alone could cause DW. how are the trackbar/drag link angles? like above post a pic. Fix the stripped out part, thats not good either
assuming you used this kit?
did you drill and retapper the the knuckles and pitman arm ect like it says you have to do?
We recommend having this kit installed by a professional 4x4 shop in your area as drilling and reaming needs to be done to knuckles and pitman arm to fit the 1 ton tie rod ends. Installation should take about 2 hours.
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 02-07-2013 at 12:19 AM.
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Top of the tire being in is camber, Castor is front to back angle of the ball joints or "rake".
The JCR kit should have no effect to camber/caster, Just toe. Did you have an alignment done? that alone could cause DW. how are the trackbar/drag link angles? like above post a pic. Fix the stripped out part, thats not good either
assuming you used this kit?
did you drill and retapper the the knuckles and pitman arm ect like it says you have to do?
The JCR kit should have no effect to camber/caster, Just toe. Did you have an alignment done? that alone could cause DW. how are the trackbar/drag link angles? like above post a pic. Fix the stripped out part, thats not good either
assuming you used this kit?
did you drill and retapper the the knuckles and pitman arm ect like it says you have to do?
I did not get a proper alignment. I measured the toe and set that to 0 same measurement. I did recently install a SYE and removed the transfer case drop brackets but that shouldn't change things either. The front pinion is angled up slightly but only a few degrees. Ball joints all seem good no movement.
Angles of the track bar and drag link are almost exactly the same.
I did ream the knuckles and pitman arm per instructions. I took my time and was carefully not to go to far.
JCR is sending new jam nuts. So I should have this fixed by weekend. That is the kit you linked
Thanks
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Thanks for clearing thar up. The camber is off but wasn't before.
I did not get a proper alignment. I measured the toe and set that to 0 same measurement. I did recently install a SYE and removed the transfer case drop brackets but that shouldn't change things either. The front pinion is angled up slightly but only a few degrees. Ball joints all seem good no movement.
Angles of the track bar and drag link are almost exactly the same.
I did ream the knuckles and pitman arm per instructions. I took my time and was carefully not to go to far.
JCR is sending new jam nuts. So I should have this fixed by weekend. That is the kit you linked
Thanks
I did not get a proper alignment. I measured the toe and set that to 0 same measurement. I did recently install a SYE and removed the transfer case drop brackets but that shouldn't change things either. The front pinion is angled up slightly but only a few degrees. Ball joints all seem good no movement.
Angles of the track bar and drag link are almost exactly the same.
I did ream the knuckles and pitman arm per instructions. I took my time and was carefully not to go to far.
JCR is sending new jam nuts. So I should have this fixed by weekend. That is the kit you linked
Thanks
#6
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You said you set your toe to 0 then that's why you have wobble. You need to be toe in or out to keep pressure on your steering system to eliminate the slop that causes wobble. 90% of shops will only do toe in alignments because thats what the manufacture calls for and they don't have the knowledge to do anything other than what the computer says or they are just covering their ***. 1/8 toe in is normal but I have had to run up to 1/4 toe out at one point because my caster was that far off at 4" of lift with stock arms. You need to either research what alignment angles mean and what they will do to your jeep and how it handles or just leave it to professionals. Steering along with brakes are two things you don't half ***.
Don't let a shop charge you for a 4 wheel alignment because there is nothing they can adjust in the rear so you are paying for nothing. The only thing they fan adjust is toe, steering wheel angle, and castor(to an extent)
Don't let a shop charge you for a 4 wheel alignment because there is nothing they can adjust in the rear so you are paying for nothing. The only thing they fan adjust is toe, steering wheel angle, and castor(to an extent)
Last edited by The_ocho; 02-07-2013 at 08:14 AM.
#7
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You said you set your toe to 0 then that's why you have wobble. You need to be toe in or out to keep pressure on your steering system to eliminate the slop that causes wobble. 90% of shops will only do toe in alignments because thats what the manufacture calls for and they don't have the knowledge to do anything other than what the computer says or they are just covering their ***. 1/8 toe in is normal but I have had to run up to 1/4 toe out at one point because my caster was that far off at 4" of lift with stock arms. You need to either research what alignment angles mean and what they will do to your jeep and how it handles or just leave it to professionals. Steering along with brakes are two things you don't half ***.
Don't let a shop charge you for a 4 wheel alignment because there is nothing they can adjust in the rear so you are paying for nothing. The only thing they fan adjust is toe, steering wheel angle, and castor(to an extent)
Don't let a shop charge you for a 4 wheel alignment because there is nothing they can adjust in the rear so you are paying for nothing. The only thing they fan adjust is toe, steering wheel angle, and castor(to an extent)
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#8
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Well I got the tie rod end replaced and new nut installed. Checked toe alignment again. Set at 1/8" toe in. Camber is no longer an issue. My previous alignment was off by an inch and must have been messing with me. Tires are mow nice and straight vertical.Everything is tight. Jacked up jeep and put on jack stands. Stuck a pole under each tire and lifted. No ball joint issues. Angles are all good. Still have death wobble.
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
#9
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Well I got the tie rod end replaced and new nut installed. Checked toe alignment again. Set at 1/8" toe in. Camber is no longer an issue. My previous alignment was off by an inch and must have been messing with me. Tires are mow nice and straight vertical.Everything is tight. Jacked up jeep and put on jack stands. Stuck a pole under each tire and lifted. No ball joint issues. Angles are all good. Still have death wobble.
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0
Caster is positive 9
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0
Caster is positive 9
#10
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Well I got the tie rod end replaced and new nut installed. Checked toe alignment again. Set at 1/8" toe in. Camber is no longer an issue. My previous alignment was off by an inch and must have been messing with me. Tires are mow nice and straight vertical.Everything is tight. Jacked up jeep and put on jack stands. Stuck a pole under each tire and lifted. No ball joint issues. Angles are all good. Still have death wobble.
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0 deg
Caster is positive 9 deg
Track bar is 14 deg
Drag link is 13 deg
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0 deg
Caster is positive 9 deg
Track bar is 14 deg
Drag link is 13 deg
#11
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Well I got the tie rod end replaced and new nut installed. Checked toe alignment again. Set at 1/8" toe in. Camber is no longer an issue. My previous alignment was off by an inch and must have been messing with me. Tires are mow nice and straight vertical.Everything is tight. Jacked up jeep and put on jack stands. Stuck a pole under each tire and lifted. No ball joint issues. Angles are all good. Still have death wobble.
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0 deg
Caster is positive 9 deg
Track bar is 14 deg
Drag link is 13 deg
Right now the only issue I can see is the passenger side upper control arm looks kinda jacked. Might be a little bent at the axle side bushing.Still have the stock uppers.
Pinion angle is 0 deg
Caster is positive 9 deg
Track bar is 14 deg
Drag link is 13 deg
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Check tire balance too. I had a 2005 wrangler that wobbled real hard and found the right front had something like 6 grams of weight compared so 1-2 grams on the other shoes. Swapped in the spare and it went down drastically. Replaced all the bushings and torqued everything down and it was good. Stock set up, but just another thing worth checking.
Last edited by k4ylr; 02-11-2013 at 09:13 AM.
#14
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Thanks for the suggestions fellas. I ended up ordering some adjustable upper control arms from Rock Krawler as well as new axle end bushings. My bushings looked a little beat and the control arm on the p-side was bent up. Once these are installed I'll adjust the pinion angle a little and then take it for an alignment. I've checked just about everything else. Fingers crossed!
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just thought I would give an update on this. I ended up cancelling the rock krawler arms as they were taking too long. I ended up with upper and lower Rubicon Express adjustable control arms. I also got the RE control arm drop brackets and braces as well as new axle side bushings for the uppers.. Everything has been installed and no more death wobble. The factory uppers were worn out and bent. I think this was the main source of issues. I was able to adjust the pinion angle properly. I was also able to push the axle fwd a little to make it centered in the wheel well. I gained a good bit of clearance because of this. I was also able to get the bump stops centered better in the coil springs.