If cruiser says it's fine I will trust him I haven't been steered wrong by him yet. Oh btw cruiser that tps sorta fixed my hi rev issue I'm going to tighten the intake bolts again when I run out of jobs to do at work. Gotta make that money first

 

What do you mean, "sorta"?

 

Well it's not as frequent as it was I still get a mild high idle some times some times it will idle At 1k opposed to 750 some times it will be as low as 550 and only on a stall will restart be at 3k and it will be brief before more often than not I would have an idle after coming to a stop at 1200-1500 and some times at 3k and as low as 400 intake bolts are tight

 

New TPS or an old one?

 

And I still have a drop out on accel right off idle.

 

Brand new tps the old one was prefect in spec as per your instructions I replaced it any way and adjusted it back into spec it's better but if I come to a stop and don't throw the clutch soon enough and stall I restart it. I went push button last week I rev instantly to 2500 and slowly builds to a crescendo at 3k and breaks and drops to 850 and is fine takes maybe 5-10 seconds.

 

I'll bet it's bad, or your sensor ground circuit has a lot of resistance. You did adjust the engine side, right?

 

Yes I adjusted it the engine side I'm sure my sensor ground is destroyed I have a very hacked harness its pretty bad

 

Easy enough to test. Have you done that?



Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test


This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate.

Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.

You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well.

Revised 06/12/2012

 

Yes I've done that I have 1.1 ohms in that

 

So is the wiring screwed up at the connector or what?

 

I think it's a connector issue it was held together with zip ties it was making contact the pins were tight and all the way in. I used zip ties to hold it together again with the new one. I'm pretty sure I've gotten all the splices in the entire jeep. I've removed every relay and cleaned every fuse and connector and pin I can find throttle is cleaned and adjusted new o2 new tps both temp sensors new more thermo and housing new coolant I've pretty much replaced it all but the CPs I've even cleaned iac. Once I'm geared and locked in going to go the valve cover reseal and mod like you told me and injector upgrade and a cowl snorkel.

 

So I got the axle all prepped and ready to do the swap after work at the shop. How long do you reckon it will take ? I get off at 5 and have to be done by 630-7

 

Id say hour tops just u bolts, shocks, drive shaft, brake line

 

You should be done by now for sure.