well as far as rock krawler goes.... 6.5 kit with aal, $1900

 

I'm not sure if this would work for my buddy because he is running a 242 transfercase and it is a little bigger

 

Don't really care about defending it. Modifying it at the axle end is easy if it's needed. The only reason I don't really care to take your word as the end all be all. Is because you're the only person I've found so far that bad mouths them to no end. And why are you suggesting the other radius arm setups? Don't you frown on those as well? So far it doesn't seem like there is a manufacturer out there that makes anything good enough. Seems like the perfect opportunity for you

 

Doesn't matter.

 

Negate it all you want. People don't want to admit they could have saved some money and gotten a decent product instead, and to each his experience is ultimate.

I've had my XJ for 13 years and all but 8 miles of the 220k have been put on by us. It started out as the DD. and as soon as it was paid off in 02 it got the first lift, a TC 3" aal. Lived it! For 6 months. Then a RE 4.5. That was back in 04 when it was a different company. In 2010 we had worn out the RE and tried rocky road outfitters 5" OME lift on somebody's recommendation from this very forum.

That worked good on the road, but sucked everywhere else. That's when I added IRO upper and lower control arms. Big improvement and that's what's leading me into the long arm swap now. My experience with IRO has been outstanding. As has it been with BDS. Serious Offroad, JCR, Tom at 4wd, and Quadratec (bias, they're right down the street).

So to each his own, but to you, it's your decision. Opinions are just that, take mine and all with a grain of salt, obtain as much info as you can and Just Empty Every Pocket on what you feel is your best opportunity, I wish that I had better info back in 1994 when I lifted my first CJ, there was no web then and nothing but magazines. So I say to you OP. good luck.

 

I've heard good and bad about both. If I were going to buy a kit id say Clayton, TNT, or Bds.

 

Sorry. TC was supposed to be RC. It's hard typing on an iPhone missing a thumb.

 

i'll bad mouth it.

the 10mm bolt is weak, the adjuster is a joke. the mounting is weaker than factory. want a good radius arm setup? TNT (remember them???), clayton, or frank's setup (seriousoffroad). 3 or 4 links? clayton again, rock krawler, full traction.

 

I'm sorry your bolt broke. Did you contact the guys at IRO and let them know? I might try the BDS system if my bolt breaks too. Thanks for the heads up.

 

believe me, i have thought of it.

there are a few people around who admitedly copied my midarm setup. and i have people ask me to build them a system from time to time.

its the cheapest system out there for a reason, its cheaply made. there are plenty of other people out there who feel the same way as i do.

other radius arms use 2 uppers, yes they still use the 10mm bolts, but they use 2 of them. and the addition of that fourth connection on the axle generally solves the axle wrap issue.

if you notice iron rock seems to bad mouth other competitiors proven products as well which i find ironic.

a properly built 3 or 4 linked suspension is superior to any radius arm. but for what most people do a radius arm serves just fine, i just dont like being on the same trail as poorly built rigs having to stop to fix them, as that was once me.

Ive just learned to overbuild things. I don't like things being "good enough".

 

it didn't bc i'm not silly enough to run it. the bolts on my uppers are 3x the size of stock stuff. a local dude ran it and blew the adjuster out in short order and ended up ditching the setup for a custom mid-arm 3 link.

 

Just do it right the first time. My first lift was rc. Now custom long arm setup. Wish I would've done it right to begin with. Everything from the rc lift has been replaced

 

Good advice. Try doing this back in the time before the Internet. Let alone CAD.

 

mid arm, kinda catchy... im not trying to be rude by any means, but i know personally i dont ever plan to jump my jeep...but that doesn't mean i want something thats going to break if i do. But if you do, dont be mad when something in the kit breaks, it wasn't made to do that... and im sure thats why you were forced to fabricate all your own parts, and thats fine, your work looks good. but for someone else an iro kit might last the whole life of their jeep...

 

it might, or you could hit a pothole on the highway and blow the adjuster apart. a part failing on the trail doing 10mph has a lot less collateral damage than something failing while driving on the highway at speed. i'm sure it may work for you, but theres plenty of evidence why it wont work for others. YMMV