Debating between RC & IRO
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 3
From: SLC, Utah
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 653
Likes: 1
From: Lynchburg, VA
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Ive been running IRO for awhile now. I regularly off-road(rocks, no mud lol) And drive my Heep everyday on the streets. Nothing by positive things to say. There biggest hate from everyone that love to hate on anything not 1600 for just LA's is about the IRO's caster adjuster. what they don't realize(because they have no real experience with the kit) is that the upper is NOT mounted by the adjuster, yet the adjuster simply sits over top of the control arm itself. (yes the the control arm itself actually mounts to the axle & is slotted for the adjuster position). There's only a few reported failers for this kit(like 2) and there appeared to be install error.(improper tq)
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: New Hampshire
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by ktmracer419
how did you narrow it down to those 2?
those are probably the 2 most budget minded kits out there. but they are cheap for a reason. i wouldnt run them.
those are probably the 2 most budget minded kits out there. but they are cheap for a reason. i wouldnt run them.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,468
Likes: 18
From: Forest Hill, Maryland
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
IRO! i plan on getting the 5.5" or 6.5" LA lift eventually, but for now i got a slightly used rc 4.5" in super good condition (not even installed on my jeep yet)
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,082
Likes: 1
From: SoCal, San Fernando
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'm his close buddy that is running the 6.5 RC lift and honestly don't like it very much and I was thinking he should get the IRO kit but after all these feedbacks I think we are going IRO 6.5
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Southend-on-Sea, Essex, England
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
RC seems to be the cheaper option,
I am running one of there 3" lifts and it has sagged after a year to 2"
I would go IRO next time if I go to long arms...
Who am I kidding.... WHEN I go to long arms lol
I am running one of there 3" lifts and it has sagged after a year to 2"
I would go IRO next time if I go to long arms...
Who am I kidding.... WHEN I go to long arms lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
Here's another good read. Like the safety police best and how he handles the criticism.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=997504
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=997504
defend it all you want. people dont want to think what they already spent their money on isnt the best kit out there.
but a 10mm bolt is a 10mm bolt and you have less of them than stock with the iron rock system.
and having broken those (2) bolts and bending my shocks, steering, and damaging my driveshaft, that is not a place i would cheap out on.
one mans "beat the **** out of my jeep in the rocks" is another mans drive down a dirt road.
just giving my opinion and experience.
but a 10mm bolt is a 10mm bolt and you have less of them than stock with the iron rock system.
and having broken those (2) bolts and bending my shocks, steering, and damaging my driveshaft, that is not a place i would cheap out on.
one mans "beat the **** out of my jeep in the rocks" is another mans drive down a dirt road.
just giving my opinion and experience.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 1
From: albany, new york
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6
defend it all you want. people dont want to think what they already spent their money on isnt the best kit out there.
but a 10mm bolt is a 10mm bolt and you have less of them than stock with the iron rock system.
and having broken those (2) bolts and bending my shocks, steering, and damaging my driveshaft, that is not a place i would cheap out on.
one mans "beat the **** out of my jeep in the rocks" is another mans drive down a dirt road.
just giving my opinion and experience.
but a 10mm bolt is a 10mm bolt and you have less of them than stock with the iron rock system.
and having broken those (2) bolts and bending my shocks, steering, and damaging my driveshaft, that is not a place i would cheap out on.
one mans "beat the **** out of my jeep in the rocks" is another mans drive down a dirt road.
just giving my opinion and experience.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 1
From: albany, new york
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: i6
i prefer the rough country setup to iron rock, but have heard of issues of the joints not lasting very long. aside from that all radius arms will perform about the same. serious offroad, tnt, clayton, whatever. the big differences are in crossmember design, and the tradeoff between ease of maintenance and ground clearance, as well as transfer case protection. joint and bushing selection also plays a part, but aside from rc and iro its hard to go wrong there.
if i were to purchase a longarm setup right now my money would go towards clayton or rockkrawler. both offer 3 and 4 link kits. (clayton has been offering a radius arm for a real long time as well)
if i were to purchase a longarm setup right now my money would go towards clayton or rockkrawler. both offer 3 and 4 link kits. (clayton has been offering a radius arm for a real long time as well)



