need to run narrower shackles and longer ones at that. heres mine.


It doesnt contact, and has more swing. I had the same issue you have when I was using 1in RC shackles, now running Summit racing 1.5in shackles. No lift was added but more swing was achieved since it was longer I was able to move it further forward. Love the ride it provides too

 

Good point Boost Happy.

 

Your cheating. You are unstrapped. LOL Which will make the longer shackles work better.

 

I never said he needs to cut things. If you look back all the way to the beginning of this thread, I was the 1st one that said he needs to get a longer shackle.

Well then here's a pic of me off-road with it. They've only been on a month so I don't have many pics with the relocation brackets. The down travel is not maxed out, but it's on the bump stops and yet, its pretty darn close to level.



Here's a good read on how limited up travel and a large amount of down travel can preform better than a taller rig with equal up and down travel.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/lo...24-12-a-32980/

 

I apologize then. My mistake. So you're saying get new shackles and I'm saying play with the angle of the ones OP has. Although I did mention that boomerang shackles arnt designed for relo brackets. But then again, it seems you're doing fine with that set up because your shackles are long enough. Did you relocate your shock mounts? The reason I ask is my suspension flexes as much as my shocks allow the way I'm set up. So for my current uses I havn't dreamed of tying to get more flex in the rear because I have plenty for what I'm doing with my XJ.

Limiting upward travel with bump stops is a little different subject then doing it with your shackles and spring rates but I agree that if you are bump stopped correctly then you want to be set up for optimal down travel. Although there's a subjective happy medium with that concept as well.

 

So here is the shackles I had before with my bastard pack, they did always sit at 90 with almost flat leafs. I never minded the ride. After all I don;t drive a lifted Jeep for the ride quality. the main reason I got all new stuff is bc the main leaf just plain gave out and sat inverted when not flexed. These are the autozone universal lift shackles. Do you think they would be too long?

 

I used to love the way these shackles flexed, but they just stuck out too low, and after the relocator got even worse. I actually got hung up on a rock once on a shackle.

Just worried again about them being too low, If I try these long shackles, which hole would give me the most flex, but lift the least, I can't have my rear sitting like 7" lift. lol

 

That's one of the problems with the relo brackets you and I are running. They sit so low that longer shackles start to get pretty radical. That's why I would first, adjust the angle of the shackles you have to see how that helps. It's a potentially free fix. If that doesn't work then I'd look at longer shackles but again, with those relo brackets you don't want to go to long.

 

So I moved the shackle one hole forward in the relo. It sits better now but looks like It raised it a lot. Would it be dumb to drop the relo all together and just run the 3.5 leaf with with the 1" shackle ? Or I could try the old 3" shackle. Starting to get annoyed ...: :-/

 

why doesn't anyone just redrill the factory hanger and move the shackle forward? I can't figure this out. I can't figure out why you would want to drop your hanger down like 6 inches. This in itself will do funny thing to your flex, anyone who doesn't understand why I say that needs to just sit back and take a look at how the springs function...

 

Re drill the shackle box?

 

well if you have a good look at the factory hanger, you'll see why no one does that. cutting it completley out and making your own would be easier than working with what is there currently. But hey, maybe i'm just not thinking outside the shackle box...har har.

 

There are multiple options at this point.

1) Run it like it is and the springs might settle. I think you said your leafs are new. Is that right?

2) Ditch the relo bracket and keep the boomerang shackles or run longer boomerangs. You really want boomerangs if you arnt running relo brackets.

3) Get shorter shackles and keep the relo bracket. Boomerangs are unnecessary if you're running relo brackets.

4) ditch those relo brackets and get lower profile ones and get longer shackles so you can better control shackle angles without adding lift. But I'd hesitate so say this is necessary.

5) Raise your front to match the back. Although a tad of extra lift in the rear has never killed anyone.

I'm sorry your getting annoyed. I've been there with my jeeps to. Lol But don't give up.

Me personally, I like the RC relocation brackets, they are low hanging but that design does come with some advantages. Namely, they allow you to get away with shorter shackles and still have a lot of flex because your shackles have all the room in the world to pivot. That's just my two cents, I hope it helps.

 

are you referring to the hump that the inside of the shackle sits against?

 

Heres another option/ This is what I run. they add no lift. http://froehlichsuspension.3dcartsto...e-XJ_p_22.html