i would still cut it, then make up the difference in a bumpstop.

 

I installed the shackle the opposite way , which is incorrect per jks first. Then unread directions and flipped it. It looks like I might actually want a shorter shackle or stock? These leafs are damn stiff , can't find a setup that allows flex like my stock with a bastard pack.

 

re leafs? in my experience they are soft, love to sag and love to wrap. I would not allow my shackle to bottom out like that, if it has nowhere else to go, then your leaves have to fold into an "s" shape when it compresses more, which will hurt them in no time.

what travel shocks are you running? stock location?

I never did anything special with a shackle relocation and I could make every leaf pack I ran with them droop to the earths mantle.

 

the shackles in that pic are installed backwards . install the shackles correctly and then try out different holes that's why they're adjustable.

you could even flip the relocator box around for even more adjustability.

 

They are installed correctly... if they were flipped around they would interfere even sooner. Boomerang shackles are made to clear the factory shackle box with longer, aftermarket leaf springs when compressing.

 

x2, and another vote for not to cut into the relocation box from ktms other post. for those who think the boomerang shackles are installed backwards you guys need to really get your eyes checked out. just move it back 1 hole and see where you are at once the jeep is back in the ground

 

The reason for your stiff suspension is a bad shackle angle. Look at your compressed leaf photo. Your shackle is almost parallel to the ground! You want your shackle to be about 90 degrees from the angle of your leaf pack where it meets the shackle when the jeep is sitting flat. That way, when you compress your leafs your shackle doesn't lay as flat as yours does now. Just move your shackle one or two holes back and you will be fine. If you cut the bracket then you'll lose the ability to relocate as needed. Defeats the purpose if you ask me.

 

Yeah..... that's not how it works. The correct shackle angle is 45 degreese. If he puts it at 90, yeah it may compress more, but he will have no down travel and a hell of a rough ride.

 

No... Not 45 degrees from your leaf springs. 45 degrees from the frame rails,or the ground, for most setups are pretty close to correct. The problem with going by that is its not taking leaf arc into consideration. For these leafs, roughly 90 degrees from the leafs puts you pretty close to 45 from the rails/ground. The OP is doing neither. I run those same leafs with the same relo bracket. (Different shackles though) RE leafs have a lot of arc to them but they are soft. So you need optimal shackle travel for compression. The OP doesn't.

 

Thanks guys, will try again with 1 hole back, then 2 if needed. I was upset bc I delt with a 90 shackle for so long and bought the RE leafs, shackles and relos all in hope "doing it right". So hopefully that helps. And as far as the direction of the shackles, here you go kids:

http://jksmfg.com/attachment/54350-I...20Instructions

 

Right now his shackle is about 45-55 degrees to the ground. If he moves the mounting hole back at all, that will increase the angle. So like I said before, the springs will compress better, but he will have no down travel and a rougher ride.

 

How is that even possible? "Springs will compress better, but have a rougher ride." No, shackles can swing forward for down travel, just like they can swing back for up travel. Thats why one wants them right at the halfway point when sitting flat. Right now the OPs shackle angle is a lot less then 45. It just looks like it because of the boomerang shape to them.



Here is my set up. Rides perfectly.

 

Looks exactly like my set up.
Except for the relocation. brackets.
Works great.

 

The more vertical your shackle is; I.E. the closer it is to 90 degrees vertical, the rougher the ride will be on the road because more vibrations transmitted into the unibody. However, being that the shackle has more room to travel backwards when it is compressed, he will gain more upward travel. BUT, with the shackle at or close to 90 degrees, he will already be towards the outer limits of the available down travel. If the shackle is set to 45 degrees, then you take advantage of the greatest potential up and down travel while still obtaining the best ride quality. If he wants to sacrifice down travel in order to gain more up travel, then yeah he can run a shackle angle closer to 90 degrees. But if he wants to have a properly set up suspension, he need to get a shackle that it a little longer and have it set at the right angle.

Here is your shackle compared to 45 degrees

This is mine compared to 45 degrees

And heres the kind of down travel I get with that setup. And it still has more to go but my shocks limit my travel. That's a 3" lift with 33's.

 

I don't have a pics of my down travel but I can assure you that I have plenty. Again, the exact optimal angle of shackles depends on the leafs and shackles being used. The 45 or 90 numbers are guidelines give people the general idea. When someone has a stiff ride and limited flex and then posts a picture of the shackle bottoming out at moderate compression the answer is not to cut stuff. The answer is to adjust the shackle angle.

BTW, no offense, but parking lot pictures of a wheel hanging down doesn't show anything. A balanced suspension not only has close to equal spring rates all the way around but also close to equal up and down travel laterally. If your up travel is limited and you have an opposing force pushing up (ground/rocks) on one side then of course that same force will push the other side down to the point the your leaf pack will begin to separate, like in your photo. That doesn't translate into a smoother ride or better off road performance.