Here's the deal. I recently trusses(ballistic fab) my HP30. And the first trip out with it, I broke the truss. The passenger UCA mount ripped off. But it didn't break the welds, it actually snapped the metal at the truss. So I was planning on rewelding it and adding some bracing/gussets(which I should have done in the first place) but I have recently started thinking of just converting it to a 3 link. Would I be able to just take off the upper radius arms and add a single upper. The other question is what would be the place/way to mount it.

 

I know that B.Lee along with most 3 links upgrade the upper bushing to a JJ that uses a larger 5/8? bolt for the added stress. IRO doesn't do that but then again that design isn't the best by a long shot. I'd assume the best place to mount it would be to add a new upper mount on the crossmember if the lower arms allow since they are curved for maximum clearance.

 

I have ballistic joints in my upper Mounts I was thinking about the bend as well, I will have to look at it tomorrow and see what I can do.

 

I don't know about the true 3 link. What about making it into something similar to the IRO LA. Minus the crappy adjuster, I could weld the upper to the lower? I know it isn't the optimal design. but I just don't know if the 1/8th truss is going to be able to take the amount of force/binding the radius arms create.

 

Are the upper arms adjustable, possible to set camber? If you aren't using the stock upper rubber and small bolt bushings that would be a plus on the possibility.

 

Yes, upper arms are adjustable. And I am using weldable ballistic fab joints on the upper axle mounts. The bolt is 1/2 I believe. 1 size over stock. I had to drill out the control arms just a hair. Also check this out. My buddy just sent me this.
http://www.metalcloak.com/TJ-Lock-n-...ion-p/7075.htm

 

that would be taking a bounding leap backwards. cut and dry here's what you do

grind the upper arms off the lowers and try to sell them
cut away part of your truss on the passenger side
order one of these big b****es in a passenger side application and stuff it in there http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/LINKT10.html
cut away part of your floor on the passenger side and fit this bracket to the inside of your frame rail http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LEG10.html
then build a 7/8x7/8 heim joint upper link (make it 2-3" shorter than your lowers)

bada bing bada boom. happiness awaits

 

That is a good idea. But I should have added that I am planning on going to a 44 or 60 up front within a year. So I am looking for the least amount of work for right now. Also, this doesn't have to be driven on the street.

 

why? the stock axles are fine unless you're breaking them every other trip

as you found out, the mounts need to be fully welded to the tube and the a truss put on top/around them. so I'd still cut away part of your truss so you can brace it to the actual tube, or find a way to tie that old mount in better.

 

Because I broke a Yukon 8.25 shaft. I also want to stretch the rear 2-3" with those offset spring perches. And I don't want to spend the time/money to do that on my 8.25. Also, I am worried of the possibility of breaking my Detroit if I snap another shaft, because if that happens it has no resale value. But I don't want to spend a bunch of money to swap in an 8.8 just to run 35's. So I want to move to 37's I don't see myself going any bigger than 37's because there is nothing under 5hours away from me that warrants +37" tires. And if I want to run 37's I need to get rid of the D30.

 

right on man. I'd try to keep that TNT kit in good shape. it will resale pretty well if you end up unable to use it on your axle swap. big boy axles are great but they will cost you

 

Hey guys, just a little update. I removed the pass. Side upper. I also now have 1/2" bolts at both ends of the driver side upper. Bushing where it attaches to the lower, and a ballistic fab joint at axle end. I planned on welding the passenger mount again and running both uppers(at least on the roads) but yesterday, I took it for a test drive and I was pleasantly surprised. It drove fine. Nothing felt sketchy or anything like that. So I think I might just leave the passenger upper off.

 

That is also what I'd do in your situation. If the D side UCA mount is burned in nice and good you shouldn't have any issues.

 

I have a 98 XJ with TNT long arms as well and with the help of nowhereman98 we modified it to a 3 link a couple of weeks ago. We removed the passenger upper as well and placed a 1/2" bolt at the drivers side axle. Still running stock bushing in the axle and have thought about tacking the sleeves to prevent them from popping out. I use this as a daily driver and haven't had any issues yet. I have taken it wheeling once so far and it performed fine and didn't bind up like it did when the passenger side was installed. Jeep Jamboree is in 2 weeks and that will be the real test.