You should be in the 5-7 range.

 

What has happened is that the geometry has gotten all screwed up with the lift......the springs should be straight, but they are not, because the front differential is not properly lined up. When you install adjustable upper control arms, a good mechanic will get everything back into alignment, and the springs will be straight again, and it will drive like it should, and stop clanging and popping and making all sorts of noises.......Lifting is a big deal, if you want your XJ to drive like it should......to me, that means without popping, wobbling, etc........

 

I thought mine were like that too ? I just replaced the bushing in the track bar. When I set it down on wheels, it was perfect ? Does it matter if it's in the sir w/o weight ?

 

i thought the angle finder needed to be placed on the top?

I believe your supposed to do the adjustment with the weight of the jeep on the ground... I believe when i did it with 88whitecomanche, we had a measuring tape and measured the inside of the wheel well to a thread on the tire.... made sure both sides were the same.

 

Yeah needs to be done with Jeep on the ground. Also drive it back and fourth, move the wheels and then measure again as things can 'settle'.

The only thing I can think to do once I adjust my track bar, is to get adustable LCAs and UCAs. Because even when the axle centers better, I can assure you that angle is still not great, and will still need adjusting.

 

FYI. The springs are contacting the bump towers because the wheelbase is off due to the lift. When lifted 4.5" on short-arms the axle swings rearward.
The only way to remedy is to adjust the control arms (lengthen). Set the wheelbase with the lowers and pinion/caster angle with the uppers.
Another option that would get the wheelbase close to correct and would improve the ride quality is 'drop brackets' for the control arms you currently have. The brackets return the control arm angles to horizontal (ride quality) and shift the axle forward.

 

The ride quality is really good at the moment. No drive vibes at all, It's just not the angle it's supposed to be at. And I'd agree. LCAs for length, and UCAs for angle.

 

The ride quality i speak of has to do with the upward angle of control arms. The extreme upward angle projects bumps up into chassis rather than into suspension. With the control arms horizontal they are in a neutral position regarding the suspension and are easily articulated.
Also, with that high arm angle keep in mind what will happen when the suspension droops, the axle will tuck under and towards the rear of jeep.
Drop brackets remedy both issues (or long arms).

 

Does this look normal? Here is my passenger LCA mount. What is with the spacing? Should all that be tightened down as far as it can go?




Drivers side looks about the same. Those nuts look like they would be a real treat to turn...

 

That is the adjustment bracket for caster. It shifts control arm fore or aft. If control arms are adjustable than the caster adjuster can be moved fully rearward so that arms can be as long as possible.

 

Not adjustable.

So those must thread into the bracket too and the nut?? It looks like the nut is not flush on one of them is why I'm asking.

 

As long as the side bolts are torqued to spec you are fine.

The side bolts hold the arm from travelling forward and backwards and the rear bolts set a limit for adjustment.

The space in there is so that you can put adjustment caster plates if necessary.

 

I would not worry about the nut being loose, the control arm bolt being tight is what matters. When the alignment was done they may have shifted the control arm without using the adjuster nuts. You can snug it down if desired, if it will turn. Copper anti-seize is a good idea on these underbody fasteners.

 

Ok so I thought I'd provide an update. I can't believe I paid $120 for an 'advanced' front end alignment. I specifically asked them to adjust my track bar as part of this process, which they said they could do.

Was off center by nearly 2 inches on the passenger side. That explained a couple of things, one that tapping. Two, why I had a slight pull to one side. It's either they adjusted it in air with no weight on suspension, or didn't bother to 'shift' the front end around to get it to settle after adjusting it.

Either way, I adjusted it myself with much better precision. So I just paid $120 for them to essentially adjust the length of me tie rod.

But now she drives better than ever, and no tapping on the coil. I'll eventually get me some core 4x4 tier 2s or 3s UCAs and LCAs but probably not for a few months. I don't plan on taking her offroad until next year anyway.

As always, thanks to everyone for helping me learn more and more about my jeep. About 10 years ago was younger and dumber and just got this jeep for cheep, and paid a shop to put a lift on it without ever doing any research first. So I feel like I have quite a bit of catching up to do.